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Routes in Sundance Buttress

Adrenaline T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Banana Peels T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Betwixt'em T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bonzo T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Bushes T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cajun Capers T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Chain of Command T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Covert Action T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Curve Grande T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b C1
English Opening T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Eumenides T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Firebird 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C2
First Lady T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Grapevine T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Great Roof Bypass T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Guillotine, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Hemp Necktie T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Hurley-Neri T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Idiot Wind T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Jet Stream T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Kor's Flake T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Last Gasp T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Laura Scudders T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
Mainliner T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mr. President T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Nose, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Precipitation T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C2
Progression T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Redman T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sidetrack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Slim Pickens T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Turnkorner T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Turnkorner Direct T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Under The Sundress T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Under the Big Top 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Upside Down Race Car Kitty T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Whiteman T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Type: Trad
FA: Malcolm Daly, Bill Feigis, Randy Joseph
Page Views: 1,224 total, 6/month
Shared By: Malcolm Daly on Oct 7, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Sundance Buttress is seasonally closed for raptor nesting. Click for details. Details
Season raptor closures Details

Description

Start 30 feet left of Whiteman and climb straight up to the belay at the top of the first pitch of Whiteman. Bill Feigis drilled the first bolt in a brutal rainstorm, on lead, from a stance. I've have never seen anything like it, before or since. Bill left for Iowa the next day and couldn't complete it, so Randy Joseph and I came back the next week and did it.

Protection

A couple of bolts to clip, but bring small wires, too. Cams are useful at the bottom.

Photos

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Ian
Boulder, CO
Ian   Boulder, CO
I got on this route thinking it was Whiteman, doing the direct start. The gear was spicy until the dihedral, but manageable. The offset nut I placed at the crux seemed iffy at the time, but it held the fall. It would have been nice if the second bolt was clippable before pulling the crux. Jun 6, 2011
Eli Helmuth
Ciales, PR
Eli Helmuth   Ciales, PR
It looks a bit improbable from the ground, but there is a direct start (indpendent of Whiteman) that goes straight up into the hanging corner. The moves are pretty moderate (great edges)and actually protectable with a nut or small cam. Apr 27, 2005
Malcolm Daly
Boulder, CO
 
Malcolm Daly   Boulder, CO
 
I guess it's been way too many years since I've been up there. I'd forgotten that theys actually begin at the same place. Maybe that's why we spotted the route in the first place. Don't remember too much about the first half of the pitch. It just felt like regular climbing. Regardless, it's a teriffic pitch. Jun 9, 2003
jason seaver
Estes Park, CO
 
jason seaver   Estes Park, CO
 
With all due respect, this description seems a bit misleading. Unless we did it completely wrong, you actually start ON the first pitch of Whiteman, but after 15 or 20 feet you move left into the obvious and beautiful left-facing undercling corner. This corner eventually straightens out to vertical, and ends; then you move up and right to the crux moves past the bolts, and the anchor on Whiteman. You can get a medium stopper and an RP between the bolts (strenuous), and I would recommend bringing a FULL rack for the lower corner.Also worth noting is that the most recent guidebook gives this pitch an R rating. I'm not entirely convinced it deserves it, but it does pack a little spice.The same guidebook also calls this pitch a variation to Whiteman, but it only shares a couple moves, if that.With all that said, I think this is an outstanding independent pitch. Mar 17, 2003