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Routes in 1.1 - Old Sandstone

"The Nipple" V1-2 5
Africa Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Alligator Wall T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
American Beauty Crack T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Baker Street TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Broken Foot T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Chez's Chimney T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Chez's Chimney variation T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Climber's Arrogance T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Curving Crack T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dancing Madly Backwards T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Deceptive T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Dirty Little Secret T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Everleigh Club Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Freaky Face T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Gargantua T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Girls Named Sue T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Half Crack T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Has Been T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
High Life, The TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Mammalary Magic T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
One-Upper T,TR V2+ 5+ R
Out There TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Pacific Ocean Wall TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Ptooey T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sepsen Wall T,TR 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Seven Seas TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sherlocked T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Swillbillies T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Tarantula T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Team Arturo T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Uberschmidt TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Wave Mechanics TR 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Wobbly Dihedral T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: TR, 50 ft
FA: probably Ralph Schmidt
Page Views: 2,129 total, 15/month
Shared By: Jay Knower on Nov 11, 2005
Admins: Burt Lindquist, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

You & This Route


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Description

Uberschmidt is the route immediately left of Tarantula and can be identified by a large roof one third of the way up. The climb breaches the center of the roof.

Though intimidating from the ground, Uberschmidt climbs very well, as a bouldery, cut-your-feet sequence sees you over the roof. The climbing on the upper face eases considerably. Note: While pulling the roof, the right wall is definitely off. Using it makes this climb about 5.11.

Much easier and more enjoyable (in my opinion) than the nightmare slab of Sepsen Wall, Uberschmidt deserves more traffic.

Protection

Toprope problem.

Photos

Tradiban
  5.12a R
Tradiban  
  5.12a R
Obviously you're not one Andy ;) Aug 20, 2011
Andy Hansen
Longmont, Colorado
Andy Hansen   Longmont, Colorado
What the hell is a Winsonite? Aug 19, 2011
Tradiban
  5.12a R
Tradiban  
  5.12a R
Yea, I see how you guys could call this 11c. I think that a person who boulders V5 or higher or climbs harder 12's and 13's or 14's (Famous "Winsonsinite" Jay Knower) would find the one hard move on this easy but 12's being around my limit I think it would be fair to call it 12a.
Lets compromise at 11d.
A #000 C3 gives decent protection to the crux and there are good placements above albeit in suspect rock with a solid run-out to the top.
Long live trad climbing. Aug 22, 2009
Tradiban
  5.12a R
Tradiban  
  5.12a R
5.9ish climbing, except for pulling that damn roof! I couldn't find the foot I needed, am I too tall? If it's 11c, I'm missing something. Jun 29, 2009
Tom Petraitis
Evanston, IL
 
Tom Petraitis   Evanston, IL
 
I tried this route a few years ago and was shut out of the top -- which it seems is not the hard part. I must have missed a foothold, or my shoes sucked. The next year i saw two locals run up it like it was a day hike. The bottom is really enjoyable. Just a playground of sweet bouldering action! I won't venture a guess at the rating till I try the upper part again with better shoes and glasses. May 4, 2009
Rob Riggleman
Santa Barbara, CA
Rob Riggleman   Santa Barbara, CA
I tried this thing several times yesterday. Maybe I was missing something, but I thought the roof sequence was much harder than anything on P.O. Wall. I never was able to stand up over the roof... Aug 27, 2007
Jay Knower
Campton, NH
  5.11c
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
  5.11c
You know...I agree with Rich. This climb is probably 5.11c, not 12a. The book gives it 12b, but that is way off. I felt that this climb was much easier than many other 12a's in the area.

A long dong? Wouldn't a cam work better?

Jan 5, 2006
rich bechler
  5.11c
rich bechler  
  5.11c
This is a great lead. A hand placed long dong at the lip.Be care ful at the top out.Walk to the top and clean the dirt and pine needles of the ledge. Dec 30, 2005