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Routes in 1.1 - Old Sandstone

"The Nipple" V1-2 5
Africa Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Alligator Wall T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
American Beauty Crack T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Baker Street TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Broken Foot T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Chez's Chimney T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Chez's Chimney variation T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Climber's Arrogance T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Curving Crack T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dancing Madly Backwards T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Deceptive T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Dirty Little Secret T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Everleigh Club Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Freaky Face T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Gargantua T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Girls Named Sue T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Half Crack T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Has Been T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
High Life, The TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Mammalary Magic T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
One-Upper T,TR V2+ 5+ R
Out There TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Pacific Ocean Wall TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Ptooey T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sepsen Wall T,TR 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Seven Seas TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sherlocked T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Swillbillies T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Tarantula T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Team Arturo T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Uberschmidt TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Wave Mechanics TR 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Wobbly Dihedral T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: TR
FA: unknown
Page Views: 3,278 total, 17/month
Shared By: Jay Knower on Apr 27, 2002
Admins: Burt Lindquist, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

You & This Route


28 Opinions

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Description

Pacific Ocean Wall is the large scoop on the right hand side of Old Sandstone--it looks like a crashing wave. Also, it looks like the crux is under the wave or pulling out of it. Wrong.

Thin but positive flakes bring you to the lip of the wave. Above the lip, expect sloping handholds and subtle smearing--classic sandstone climbing. A few tough, insecure pulls deposit you at the top of one of the best routes at Devil's Lake.

Protection

Toprope--a lot of webbing.
Tom Petraitis
Evanston, IL
  5.11d
Tom Petraitis   Evanston, IL
  5.11d
I can distinctly remember the first time I was at Old Sandstone running up to this rock and gasping! What a beautiful line. I could not imagine it was climbable, only something a person could dream-of-climbing. One does not need to climb it to appreciate it. May 4, 2009
Remo
Madison, WI
  5.11d
Remo   Madison, WI
  5.11d
Great Route! Oct 13, 2007
I led this today. #00 TCU and Astro-nut at the tip of the wave, another nut and #0 TCU a bit higher. Gear would probably pull on a fall but it would have been possible to bail at key points and hang on it. :)
An OUTSTANDING climb. Sep 26, 2007
James Schroeder
Sauk County, WI
  5.11d
James Schroeder   Sauk County, WI  
  5.11d
This must be one of the most classic lines in the park. It's in a beautiful setting, on a beautiful piece of stone, and involves powerful, engaging and technical climbing. May 20, 2007
Has ever been led! Oct 27, 2006
Jay Knower
Campton, NH
 
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
 
Eddie, can you find out who it was? Oct 17, 2006
Eddie Avallone
Lewisburg, WV
Eddie Avallone   Lewisburg, WV
although I haven't seen it, a friend saw someone lead it maybe 4-5 years ago.

one verrrry small nut coming out of the wave. good pro after the crux. still be cratering if you blew at any of the likely spots, though. Oct 17, 2006
Steve Sangdahl
eldo sprngs,co
Steve Sangdahl   eldo sprngs,co
jay, as far as i know no leads or solos .....yet.would be rad though no doubt. Nov 5, 2005
Jay Knower
Campton, NH
 
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
 
Does anyone know: has this been led/soloed? Nov 2, 2005