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Routes in 1.1 - Old Sandstone

"The Nipple" V1-2 5
Africa Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Alligator Wall T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
American Beauty Crack T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Baker Street TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Broken Foot T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Chez's Chimney T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Chez's Chimney variation T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Climber's Arrogance T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Curving Crack T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dancing Madly Backwards T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Deceptive T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Dirty Little Secret T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Everleigh Club Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Freaky Face T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Gargantua T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Girls Named Sue T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Half Crack T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Has Been T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
High Life, The TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Mammalary Magic T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
One-Upper T,TR V2+ 5+ R
Out There TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Pacific Ocean Wall TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Ptooey T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sepsen Wall T,TR 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Seven Seas TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sherlocked T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Swillbillies T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Tarantula T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Team Arturo T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Uberschmidt TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Wave Mechanics TR 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Wobbly Dihedral T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: TR
FA: TR: Alex Andrews. First Lead: John Knoernschild
Page Views: 2,318 total, 16/month
Shared By: Pete Arndt on Aug 19, 2005
Admins: Burt Lindquist, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

You & This Route


13 Opinions

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Description

Long face to the right of "Curving Crack" and "Deceptive". Can view a photo by finding "Curving Crack" on this sight.Tricky start and equally tricky top out. In between for my money one of the best face climbs for its grade at the Lake.Put some bolts on it and it becomes Jackson Falls 5.10.

Protection

Top Rope: Blaze Orange Slings
Burt Lindquist
Madison, WI
Burt Lindquist   Madison, WI  
J Mascis has an up-coming High Noon Saloon show scheduled. Don't forget your ear plugs. His shows and especially the Dino Jr shows I have been too are THE LOUDEST show I have ever attended anywhere. To be fair to John he didn't have a guitar slung on his rack and especially no hovering helicopter. Jul 10, 2014
Andy Hansen
Longmont, Colorado
Andy Hansen   Longmont, Colorado
J. Mascis on skis ripping the opening shred may in fact be better than John K. leading this rig.

youtube.com/watch?v=Z81LcFh… Jul 9, 2014
Tradiban  
 
I jumped on this after John, the gear is tricky on suspect rock, hence a definite "R" rating. Put your lead hat on tight! Jul 6, 2009
John W. Knoernschild
Wisconsin
  5.9 R
John W. Knoernschild   Wisconsin
  5.9 R
Thx Nick. It felt great to finally lead this thing. I'd been thinking about it since last season. Thx for the belay as well. And the direct start is the only way to do this thing. Don't use that crack to get to it, just use small crimps on the face. Jul 4, 2009
Tradiban  
 
Preemptive "congrats!" to John K.

This climb is four stars, good moves all the way...except for the sandbagger direct start. Jul 3, 2009
Paul Campbell
Waukesha, WI
  5.9
Paul Campbell   Waukesha, WI
  5.9
This climb is overlooked way to much! Get on it! Oct 20, 2008
John W. Knoernschild
Wisconsin
  5.9 R
John W. Knoernschild   Wisconsin
  5.9 R
Thx Alex! Aug 29, 2008
Alex Andrews  
 
FA Alex Andrews in the 80's 2nd ascent Peter Cleveland, Jul 13, 2008
John W. Knoernschild
Wisconsin
  5.9 R
John W. Knoernschild   Wisconsin
  5.9 R
FA ?? Jul 3, 2008
John W. Knoernschild
Wisconsin
  5.9 R
John W. Knoernschild   Wisconsin
  5.9 R
I climbed this at the end of October 2007 in a cold 35 degree day. I sent it 3 times. On the 3rd time, I slipped off a hold on top, tried to reach for a crimp to save myself with my right hand, jabbed my middle finger into the wall, broke it (didn't know that yet) and saved myself from the fall and finished up the climb. When I got back home, my finger really hurt. And it continued to hurt throughout the winter. Jun 11, 2008
Jay Knower
Campton, NH
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
Out There is possibly the best 5.9 face route at Sandstone, althouth the 5.9 start to Gargantua might be better. Oh, and there is the route left of Dancing Madly. OK, Out There is among the best 5.9 face routes at Sandstone. . .maybe. Aug 23, 2005
Are the blaze orange slings a must on this one, even in off-season?? Aug 23, 2005