Type: TR
FA: TR: Alex Andrews. First Lead: John Knoernschild
Page Views: 2,444 total · 15/month
Shared By: Pete Arndt on Aug 19, 2005
Admins: Burton Lindquist, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, chris tregge

You & This Route


14 Opinions

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Description

Long face to the right of "Curving Crack" and "Deceptive". Can view a photo by finding "Curving Crack" on this sight.Tricky start and equally tricky top out. In between for my money one of the best face climbs for its grade at the Lake.Put some bolts on it and it becomes Jackson Falls 5.10.

Protection

Top Rope: Blaze Orange Slings
Are the blaze orange slings a must on this one, even in off-season?? Aug 23, 2005
Jay Knower
Campton, NH
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
Out There is possibly the best 5.9 face route at Sandstone, althouth the 5.9 start to Gargantua might be better. Oh, and there is the route left of Dancing Madly. OK, Out There is among the best 5.9 face routes at Sandstone. . .maybe. Aug 23, 2005
John W. Knoernschild
Wisconsin
  5.9 R
John W. Knoernschild   Wisconsin
  5.9 R
I climbed this at the end of October 2007 in a cold 35 degree day. I sent it 3 times. On the 3rd time, I slipped off a hold on top, tried to reach for a crimp to save myself with my right hand, jabbed my middle finger into the wall, broke it (didn't know that yet) and saved myself from the fall and finished up the climb. When I got back home, my finger really hurt. And it continued to hurt throughout the winter. Jun 11, 2008
John W. Knoernschild
Wisconsin
  5.9 R
John W. Knoernschild   Wisconsin
  5.9 R
FA ?? Jul 3, 2008
Alex A
 
Alex A  
 
FA Alex Andrews in the 80's 2nd ascent Peter Cleveland, Jul 13, 2008
John W. Knoernschild
Wisconsin
  5.9 R
John W. Knoernschild   Wisconsin
  5.9 R
Thx Alex! Aug 29, 2008
Paul Campbell
Waukesha, WI
  5.9
Paul Campbell   Waukesha, WI
  5.9
This climb is overlooked way to much! Get on it! Oct 20, 2008
Tradiban  
 
Preemptive "congrats!" to John K.

This climb is four stars, good moves all the way...except for the sandbagger direct start. Jul 3, 2009
John W. Knoernschild
Wisconsin
  5.9 R
John W. Knoernschild   Wisconsin
  5.9 R
Thx Nick. It felt great to finally lead this thing. I'd been thinking about it since last season. Thx for the belay as well. And the direct start is the only way to do this thing. Don't use that crack to get to it, just use small crimps on the face. Jul 4, 2009
Tradiban  
 
I jumped on this after John, the gear is tricky on suspect rock, hence a definite "R" rating. Put your lead hat on tight! Jul 6, 2009
Andy Hansen
Longmont, CO
Andy Hansen   Longmont, CO
J. Mascis on skis ripping the opening shred may in fact be better than John K. leading this rig.

youtube.com/watch?v=Z81LcFh… Jul 9, 2014
Burton Lindquist
Madison, WI
Burton Lindquist   Madison, WI  
J Mascis has an up-coming High Noon Saloon show scheduled. Don't forget your ear plugs. His shows and especially the Dino Jr shows I have been too are THE LOUDEST show I have ever attended anywhere. To be fair to John he didn't have a guitar slung on his rack and especially no hovering helicopter. Jul 10, 2014