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Routes in 1.1 - Old Sandstone

"The Nipple" V1-2 5
Africa Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Alligator Wall T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
American Beauty Crack T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Baker Street TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Broken Foot T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Chez's Chimney T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Chez's Chimney variation T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Climber's Arrogance T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Curving Crack T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dancing Madly Backwards T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Deceptive T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Dirty Little Secret T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Everleigh Club Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Freaky Face T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Gargantua T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Girls Named Sue T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Half Crack T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Has Been T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
High Life, The TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Mammalary Magic T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
One-Upper T,TR V2+ 5+ R
Out There TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Pacific Ocean Wall TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Ptooey T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sepsen Wall T,TR 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Seven Seas TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sherlocked T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Swillbillies T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Tarantula T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Team Arturo T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Uberschmidt TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Wave Mechanics TR 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Wobbly Dihedral T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, TR
FA: R. Bechler, S. Sangdahl
Page Views: 2,587 total, 13/month
Shared By: Tom Anderson-Brown on Oct 10, 2001
Admins: Burt Lindquist, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

You & This Route


61 Opinions

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Description

The American Beauty Crack can be found just to the right of the Pacific Ocean Wall and Seven Seas. The crack sits on the inside of a 35-foot slightly overhanging right angle dihedral and is perfect for practicing your lieback moves or handjamming. The crux is at the slight overhang about halfway up the route.

Protection

Standard Rack for leading. For top-rope bring long slings.
Sean Glendon
  5.8+
Sean Glendon  
  5.8+
This thing is sweet, a few thin hands moves up to a jug and a good stance and then fire through the overhanging dihedral as it goes from tight fists to #4 fists Nov 27, 2017
Michael Bartosek
Los Angeles
 
Michael Bartosek   Los Angeles
 
Jan 7th 2012 and I got to lead this!! How awesome is a 40-deg dry day in January at Devil's Lake??? My rack only has up to #2 cam, luckily I had a partner with a #3 and #4, I used them both and still wish I had one more of each or maybe I should have just taken my really large hexes, either way, awesome climb!! Jan 7, 2012
Doug Hemken
Madison, WI
 
Doug Hemken   Madison, WI  
 
Some of the best off-hands moves at the Lake. Nov 27, 2011
Remo
Madison, WI
 
Remo   Madison, WI
 
I can't believe I've never done this route before. Awesome climb, and a must do for the moderate leader. Mar 30, 2011
Ryan Strong
Golden, CO
  5.9
Ryan Strong   Golden, CO
  5.9
fun lead ...wide hands..big cams Mar 5, 2011
John W. Knoernschild
Wisconsin
  5.8
John W. Knoernschild   Wisconsin
  5.8
I have to agree Ta-Chi. I just led this last friday, still nice laybacks, but when placing gear, I jammed to steady myself. Fun lead! Jul 6, 2009
Ta-Chi Wang
  5.9
Ta-Chi Wang  
  5.9
Layback may work on this beauty, but become a doubtful strategy when leading it. Tape your hand well if you get a small hand like I do, for on the half way up the wide crack fist-jamming become necessary. May 24, 2009
John W. Knoernschild
Wisconsin
  5.8
John W. Knoernschild   Wisconsin
  5.8
This was a great route. Perfect laybacks all the way up. This climb is often overlooked. Get on it. Aug 24, 2008
f.a. rich bechler and steve sangdahl Mar 28, 2002