Mountain Project Logo

Routes in 1.1 - Old Sandstone

"The Nipple" V1-2 5
Africa Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Alligator Wall T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
American Beauty Crack T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Baker Street TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Broken Foot T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Chez's Chimney T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Chez's Chimney variation T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Climber's Arrogance T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Curving Crack T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dancing Madly Backwards T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Deceptive T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Dirty Little Secret T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Everleigh Club Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Freaky Face T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Gargantua T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Girls Named Sue T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Half Crack T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Has Been T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
High Life, The TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Mammalary Magic T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
One-Upper T,TR V2+ 5+ R
Out There TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Pacific Ocean Wall TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Ptooey T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sepsen Wall T,TR 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Seven Seas TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sherlocked T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Swillbillies T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Tarantula T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Team Arturo T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Uberschmidt TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Wave Mechanics TR 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Wobbly Dihedral T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, TR, 45 ft
FA: First lead: Steve Sangdahl
Page Views: 1,276 total, 9/month
Shared By: James Schroeder on Sep 6, 2006
Admins: Burt Lindquist, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

You & This Route


23 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Has Been exists in the face between Wobbly D and Chez's Chimney. It is an exceptional route considering how often it is overlooked. Basically the idea is to thrutch up the face towards the giant cobble 2/3 of the way up on the left side of the route. Once the cobble is attained the route softens, but until then it is a stiff endeavor.

Protection

Most people will want a TR, but thin gear will help for those bold enough to lead.
Burt Lindquist
Madison, WI
Burt Lindquist   Madison, WI  
Lead MM OS just utilizing the bolt for gear and you have done your duty..... after that you can reach over into that crack off to the right and get some proper protection....you could maybe duct tape a small diameter spectra sling over that inbedded pebble too. Jul 21, 2011
Tradiban
  5.10c PG13
Tradiban  
  5.10c PG13
Right of the bolt on MM is off route. Jul 21, 2011
Andy Hansen
Longmont, Colorado
  5.10c
Andy Hansen   Longmont, Colorado
  5.10c
Nothing eliminates the X factor when Jungle Dog and myself get together. However, I've sussed gear on MM and to eliminate the true X factor I placed a .75 to the right of that bomber bolt. Definitely wouldn't advise an OS of MM either! Thanks for the beta. Jul 21, 2011
Burt Lindquist
Madison, WI
Burt Lindquist   Madison, WI  
You can fiddle some gear in on MM at the start. Also... above the manky bolt you can step right breifly and get a piece (can't remember what but it was pretty good) in the crack thing to the right (put a long sling on it) then step back left and do the face/slab climbing of the route proper. It isn't a purist approach but would eliminate the X factor.... Jul 20, 2011
Tradiban
  5.10c PG13
Tradiban  
  5.10c PG13
There's the decent pro right before the crux but it runs out from there. I can't recall exactly but I think I said PG-13 because the climbing is easier after the crux.

My ratings are always based on the lead, so yea, it's sketchy.

MM is "x" rated, I wouldn't advise an OS on that one. Jul 20, 2011
Andy Hansen
Longmont, Colorado
  5.10c
Andy Hansen   Longmont, Colorado
  5.10c
Strong, I think we should both try to OS this thing. It'd be a good outing at Old Sandstone and while we're at it... I'll lead Mammalary Magic too. Gotta do that before I head to Vegas. But, the gear on this thing looks good just probably spaced out and perhaps even R rated considering the top is mellower climbing (it looks) without gear. Jul 19, 2011
Ryan Strong
Golden, CO
Ryan Strong   Golden, CO
Rhoads how well could you sow this up? Did you give it pg 13 because of what you found on the onsight, or do you think its some what sketchy no matter what? Jul 19, 2011
Tradiban
  5.10c PG13
Tradiban  
  5.10c PG13
Yep, sent later. I just pumped out of the first try and the crimp section has a definite easy sequence to it, but I missed it on the first try. Aug 7, 2009
John W. Knoernschild
Wisconsin
  5.10c
John W. Knoernschild   Wisconsin
  5.10c
Did you send clean after the whipper? Aug 7, 2009
Tradiban
  5.10c PG13
Tradiban  
  5.10c PG13
Yea, definitely overlooked. I went for the OS but whipped on the only good gear on the route, thankfully.

The first horizontal is where the good gear is, this will protect the crimpy crux to a nice ledge for a no hands rest. The next horizontal provides one good C3 and the climbing eases considerably from there. "R" rated for the runout. Aug 6, 2009
John W. Knoernschild
Wisconsin
  5.10c
John W. Knoernschild   Wisconsin
  5.10c
Description:

Has Been starts with some underclings into a few reachy moves. The climb slowly moves left on the face until you reach the middle. This is the crux. Figuring out the sequence here is key. Once you get into it, a few small crimps will pull you through to the large cobble. Once the cobble is reached, the climbing is much easier, around 5.9 or so. Oct 21, 2008
John W. Knoernschild
Wisconsin
  5.10c
John W. Knoernschild   Wisconsin
  5.10c
This was a superb climb. Now that I have climbed it, I would put it up there with my favorite climbs in the Old Sandstone. Oct 20, 2008
Leo Hski  
 
The name was Sangdahl's response to my poor attempts at drunken humor one night in the Avalon- I had foolishly (and erroneously) called the DLFA a "bunch of has-beens". Steve led this route the next day, and made me a member of the DLFA the following week.

It was a glorious ride downhill from there! Nov 27, 2006