Adventure Projects is hiring a web engineer to join us in Boulder, CO
Mountain Project Logo

Routes in 1. Old Sandstone

"The Nipple" V2 5+
Africa Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Alligator Wall T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
American Beauty Crack T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Baker Street TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Broken Foot T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Chez's Chimney T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Chez's Chimney variation T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Climber's Arrogance T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Curving Crack T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dancing Madly Backwards T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Deceptive T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Dirty Little Secret T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Everleigh Club Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Freaky Face T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Gargantua T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Girls Named Sue T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Half Crack T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Has Been T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
High Life, The TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Mammalary Magic T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
One-Upper T,TR V2+ 5+ R
Out There TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Pacific Ocean Wall TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Ptooey T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sepsen Wall T,TR 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Seven Seas TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sherlocked T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Swillbillies T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Tarantula T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Team Arturo T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Uberschmidt TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Wave Mechanics TR 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Wobbly Dihedral T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Trad, TR, 80 ft
FA: 1st TR: Tommy Deutchler, 1st Lead: Rich Bechler & Dave Groth
Page Views: 1,951 total · 14/month
Shared By: John W. Knoernschild on Jul 12, 2007
Admins: Burton Lindquist, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

You & This Route


50 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Start with underclings until you reach the large roof, continue up to the left of the roof, layback to overhang and finish on face to top.

Location

Right inbetween Chez's Chimney and Dancing Madly Backwards. It follows the same start as Dancing Madly backwards, but when you get to the large roof, continue left with laybacks to pull small overhang and continue on quartzite pebbles to top.

Protection

Good trees to sling on top

Photos

Dmitriy Litvak
Pacifica, CA
Dmitriy Litvak   Pacifica, CA
Has anyone led this route recently and can comment on gear? Jul 23, 2007
Burton Lindquist
Madison, WI
Burton Lindquist   Madison, WI  
The gear is the same as for Dancing Madly Backwards for the first 20 feet. Mid sized (small hand sized) 4 cams in the spaces present where the rock is featured with the odd discontinues flakes and jugs. Do not place gear behind the flake top that sits just left and below the left most corner of the overhang. It is somewhat detached and loose/fragile. Above the loose flake and in the corner crack formed by the left facing corner that forms the overhang low down you can get nice larger four cam placements and maybe hexes or larger tricams. Above this there is little or no gear for a good 10-15 stretch unless one traverses left a bit and ties off the large softball shape rock nugget/pebble that is stuck in the rock. Makes a great hand hold too this pebble but it is somewhat left of the natural direct line of Alligator. There a few spots near the top one can get small TCU os C3 in horizontals. Oct 23, 2007
John W. Knoernschild
Wisconsin
 
John W. Knoernschild   Wisconsin
 
Comparing this climb to say Mammalary Magic, I'd have to say this climb is a bit harder. Way more physical at the bottom of the climb. Then moving up to small crimps and feet to finish it off. I would give it a 5.10b rating. The holds are as small as Mammalary at top, and more vertical.

I submitted it at 5.9+ to stick with what the guide book says.

Anyone know the FA? Jun 29, 2008
Steve Sangdahl
eldo sprngs,co
Steve Sangdahl   eldo sprngs,co
fa = dlfa Jul 1, 2008
John W. Knoernschild
Wisconsin
 
John W. Knoernschild   Wisconsin
 
Thx Steve Jul 2, 2008
Steve Sangdahl
eldo sprngs,co
Steve Sangdahl   eldo sprngs,co
tr fa the infamous tommy d.
first lead. rich and dave Jul 2, 2008
Tradiban
  5.10a R
Tradiban  
  5.10a R
I had been saving this for an on-sight lead for awhile and today I sacked up and sent.
The gear was fine up to the arching crack and I created a nest with one good cam and a few more micro cams in the crack before I pulled around the roof for the run out. The run out was serious as I couldn't be sure my nest would hold in the sandstone as I was ~15ft above it but at the next horizontal a decent, albeit shallow, cam went in to protect some insecure sloper crimping moves to the top.

One quartzite knob I relied on after the roof looked as if it could pull out at any second but people have been yarding on that thing for a long time so it's probably damn permanent. I think the quartzite knobs embedded all over this crag are the coolest!

As Burt said this takes mostly small gear, try not to fall. I also think 5.10a or b would be fair if you compare this to Arturo or Has Been right next door. Aug 6, 2009
Burton Lindquist
Madison, WI
Burton Lindquist   Madison, WI  
Way to go Nick. Sounds like this route was FULL VALUE as a lead. Aug 6, 2009
Josh Knapp
East Troy, Wisconsin
  5.10a R
Josh Knapp   East Troy, Wisconsin
  5.10a R
After the last good piece (a bomb .5C4 around 40% up the route) I kept muttering to my belayer "holy cow this thing is intense!". Definitely a heady route. Although I was able to place plenty of gear, none of it was better than a 50% piece, and some much worse! I probably spent 30+ minutes on this route sussing out the gear and trying to summon the courage to move upward. On the upper slab I was able to sling 2 quartzite knobs and place a undercammed shallow #1 camelot, and a marginal #1c3. None of which inspired much confidence. Needless to say I was stoked to top out! May 13, 2012

More About Alligator Wall

Printer-Friendly