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Routes in 1. Old Sandstone

"The Nipple" V2 5+
Africa Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Alligator Wall T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
American Beauty Crack T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Baker Street TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Broken Foot T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Chez's Chimney T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Chez's Chimney variation T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Climber's Arrogance T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Curving Crack T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dancing Madly Backwards T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Deceptive T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Dirty Little Secret T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Everleigh Club Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Freaky Face T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Gargantua T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Girls Named Sue T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Half Crack T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Has Been T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
High Life, The TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Mammalary Magic T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
One-Upper T,TR V2+ 5+ R
Out There TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Pacific Ocean Wall TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Ptooey T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sepsen Wall T,TR 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Seven Seas TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sherlocked T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Swillbillies T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Tarantula T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Team Arturo T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Uberschmidt TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Wave Mechanics TR 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Wobbly Dihedral T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
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Type: Trad, TR, 30 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 152 total · 2/month
Shared By: Rah Herrington on Apr 29, 2013
Admins: Burton Lindquist, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

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Description

This is a very tricky, crimpy face climb with the crux being right at the first large, sloped crack/ledge and having to get up onto that. There is a nice 3-fingered undercling crimp at this area that can provide some fun in getting up.
Aside from the first large crack and a second, less sloped one about 7ft after it, there are mostly scattered crimps.
Be careful not to go into the dihedral on the left or the obvious crack on the right. There is a quartzite knob on the left, near the crux, that is part of the dihedral route, not part of this route.

Location

To the right of Girls Named Sue & Dirty Little Secret there is a slightly moss covered face climb.
In the "Climber's Guide to Devil's Lake" book it is right in-between an unnamed 5.9 route that moves up a dihedral (marked as #22 for the area) and 2 unnamed 5.7/5.8 crack climbs (marked as #23-24 for the area). If you don't have this guide it is about 5-7ft left of Ptooey.
It can be topped out and you can walk back down or you can rappel back down as well.

Protection

Gear used here is going to run small except for the 2 large cracks. A couple of medium-large cams for the cracks would work nicely and then small nuts for the few thin cracks you can find. Gear is SUPER sparse on this route, as there aren't many spots to place it. You could place your first one in a small crack running on the left, before having to come more center as this crack eventually runs into the dihedral route.
TRing is an option too. There's plenty of spots to place an anchor at the top, like trees, so you could top out and walk back down or rappel back down too.

Photos

Andy Hansen
Longmont, CO
Andy Hansen   Longmont, CO
I remember TR'ing this in the summer of 2009. We called it "Indiana Pwns" and rated it 5.9+. Didn't lead it though. OK climb. Apr 29, 2013
Rah Herrington
  5.10c
Rah Herrington  
  5.10c
I'm not sure I would say 5.9+ but I could see a lower 5.10 maybe, though it would certainly be harder for a shorter person. The crimps were a bit too small and spread out to be lower than 5.10.
But yeah, even I chose not to lead it. The gear would have been too sparse and all after the harder moves, so not for me. :P
I really liked it. The crux was probably my favorite part. Apr 29, 2013
There's been some pontificating behind the scenes on weather or not this is a "new" route. For the purposes of MP it is because it hasn't been posted yet, however it has been TR'd before and surely named but I think "Sherlocked" is pretty good so unless Andy objects (he wouldn't) I would leave that.
For clarity regarding DL on MP I would remove the "R" rating until someone actually leads it, that allows strictly TR routes to be distinguished from lead/TR routes.
In addition my policy has always been to put a FA as "Old School" for just about any route at DL as almost literally every inch of rock has been TR'd. Lead is a different story but I don't think I have personally claimed a lead FA either because the "Old School" has probably done it anyway, AND in better style!
Also, when someone posts that they have done it already, it's not to diminish anyone's accomplishment, it's to offer some history on the route and the area.
I don't know if the controversy is simply a certain admin stirring the pot or if Rah or Sarah are actually offended that someone posted they had already done it but I can tell you the MP glitterati appreciates all additions to a mighty fine and expanding database, especially for Devils Lake. May 1, 2013
Andy Hansen
Longmont, CO
Andy Hansen   Longmont, CO
I don't care what it's called. Sherlocked sounds better than Indiana Pwns. I was offering history, as Rhoads stated, not diminishing anyone's efforts on climbing this line. May 3, 2013
Rah Herrington
  5.10c
Rah Herrington  
  5.10c
Ah yeah I can remove the R. That was just a suggestion by one of our party and since I'm new on MP I just went with it.
I was secretly hoping that no one had climbed it but it is DL and well..yeah that's just not ever possible. I'm in Hoofer's with Doug H, one of the admins, so he gave me some pointers and just said to put Unknown on the FA and that putting it up on MP was still a good idea so that others could see it too. :) May 12, 2013
Sean Glendon  
 
The crack just to the right of this face that goes up to the left side of the big ledge is an unnamed 5.7 in Sven's book. It looks dirty and unappealing from the ground..and it is. But there's a cool lay back crux that makes it well worth an on sight. Also do Africa crack and Ptooey just to the right Mar 3, 2018

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