Type: Trad, TR, 30 ft (9 m)
FA: unknown
Page Views: 846 total · 6/month
Shared By: Rah Herrington on Apr 29, 2013
Admins: Ian Cotter-Brown, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, chris tregge, Ben Strobel, Kyle Harding

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Description Suggest change

This is a very tricky, crimpy face climb with the crux being right at the first large, sloped crack/ledge and having to get up onto that. There is a nice 3-fingered undercling crimp at this area that can provide some fun in getting up.
Aside from the first large crack and a second, less sloped one about 7ft after it, there are mostly scattered crimps.
Be careful not to go into the dihedral on the left or the obvious crack on the right. There is a quartzite knob on the left, near the crux, that is part of the dihedral route, not part of this route.

Location Suggest change

To the right of Girls Named Sue & Dirty Little Secret there is a slightly moss covered face climb.
In the "Climber's Guide to Devil's Lake" book it is right in-between an unnamed 5.9 route that moves up a dihedral (marked as #22 for the area) and 2 unnamed 5.7/5.8 crack climbs (marked as #23-24 for the area). If you don't have this guide it is about 5-7ft left of Ptooey.
It can be topped out and you can walk back down or you can rappel back down as well.

Protection Suggest change

Gear used here is going to run small except for the 2 large cracks. A couple of medium-large cams for the cracks would work nicely and then small nuts for the few thin cracks you can find. Gear is SUPER sparse on this route, as there aren't many spots to place it. You could place your first one in a small crack running on the left, before having to come more center as this crack eventually runs into the dihedral route.
TRing is an option too. There's plenty of spots to place an anchor at the top, like trees, so you could top out and walk back down or rappel back down too.