Avg: 3 from 1 vote
Routes in 1.1 - Old Sandstone
|"The Nipple" V1-2 5|
|Africa Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Alligator Wall T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a|
|American Beauty Crack T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Baker Street TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b|
|Broken Foot T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a|
|Chez's Chimney T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c|
|Chez's Chimney variation T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|Climber's Arrogance T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13|
|Curving Crack T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Dancing Madly Backwards T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13|
|Deceptive T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13|
|Dirty Little Secret T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Everleigh Club Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Freaky Face T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Gargantua T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Girls Named Sue T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a|
|Half Crack T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Has Been T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13|
|High Life, The TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|Mammalary Magic T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R|
|One-Upper T,TR V2+ 5+ R|
|Out There TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R|
|Pacific Ocean Wall TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a|
|Ptooey T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Sepsen Wall T,TR 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a|
|Seven Seas TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|Sherlocked T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Swillbillies T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Tarantula T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Team Arturo T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R|
|Uberschmidt TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a|
|Wave Mechanics TR 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b|
|Wobbly Dihedral T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Type:||Trad, TR, 30 ft|
|Page Views:||120 total, 2/month|
|Shared By:||Rah Herrington on Apr 29, 2013|
|Admins:||Burt Lindquist, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE|
DescriptionThis is a very tricky, crimpy face climb with the crux being right at the first large, sloped crack/ledge and having to get up onto that. There is a nice 3-fingered undercling crimp at this area that can provide some fun in getting up.
Aside from the first large crack and a second, less sloped one about 7ft after it, there are mostly scattered crimps.
Be careful not to go into the dihedral on the left or the obvious crack on the right. There is a quartzite knob on the left, near the crux, that is part of the dihedral route, not part of this route.
LocationTo the right of Girls Named Sue & Dirty Little Secret there is a slightly moss covered face climb.
In the "Climber's Guide to Devil's Lake" book it is right in-between an unnamed 5.9 route that moves up a dihedral (marked as #22 for the area) and 2 unnamed 5.7/5.8 crack climbs (marked as #23-24 for the area). If you don't have this guide it is about 5-7ft left of Ptooey.
It can be topped out and you can walk back down or you can rappel back down as well.
ProtectionGear used here is going to run small except for the 2 large cracks. A couple of medium-large cams for the cracks would work nicely and then small nuts for the few thin cracks you can find. Gear is SUPER sparse on this route, as there aren't many spots to place it. You could place your first one in a small crack running on the left, before having to come more center as this crack eventually runs into the dihedral route.
TRing is an option too. There's plenty of spots to place an anchor at the top, like trees, so you could top out and walk back down or rappel back down too.