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Routes in 1.1 - Old Sandstone

"The Nipple" V1-2 5
Africa Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Alligator Wall T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
American Beauty Crack T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Baker Street TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Broken Foot T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Chez's Chimney T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Chez's Chimney variation T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Climber's Arrogance T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Curving Crack T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dancing Madly Backwards T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Deceptive T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Dirty Little Secret T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Everleigh Club Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Freaky Face T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Gargantua T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Girls Named Sue T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Half Crack T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Has Been T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
High Life, The TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Mammalary Magic T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
One-Upper T,TR V2+ 5+ R
Out There TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Pacific Ocean Wall TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Ptooey T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sepsen Wall T,TR 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Seven Seas TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sherlocked T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Swillbillies T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Tarantula T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Team Arturo T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Uberschmidt TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Wave Mechanics TR 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Wobbly Dihedral T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, TR
FA: First Lead: Dave Groth, 1984
Page Views: 4,981 total, 25/month
Shared By: Tom Anderson-Brown on Oct 10, 2001
Admins: Burt Lindquist, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

You & This Route


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Description

Dancing Madly Backwards is a great route to try if 5.9's are starting to get less challenging. There's good friction on the sandstone, and the wall isn't quite vertical.

Start the route below a rather large bulge. Climb up under the bulge and work your way right and up to the left end of the obvious roof. Traverse right under the roof using underclings and foot smearing. Once the roof runs out reach up to find small holds (crux 1). Stand up and over roof. Continue up to the shallow dihedral. The last few moves are on small holds (crux 2). A delightful climb!

Protection

Standard Rack
Neubadger  
 
The bat (or maybe its pal) has relocated to the leftmost undercling, which is easy enough to skip on all routes that its a part of. It was pretty tucked in there, but easy enough to see from the rest just below. Nov 25, 2017
Burt Lindquist
Madison, WI
Burt Lindquist   Madison, WI  
youtube.com/watch?v=BY3BdT_…

1972 Man..... Aug 16, 2017
Climbed DMB yesterday(4-5-17) and there is indeed a bat on the 3rd under cling ( L to R). Didn't get a solid look at but it was hissing once I reached for the pocket. Be careful out there!
Mar 6, 2017
Tom Mulholland
#1 Cheese Producing State!
Tom Mulholland   #1 Cheese Producing State!
Led the direct. Have to disagree again, Nick. I'd give it an X, as both cams I got (yellow C3 and #1 Met) were shallow enough to maybe pull. Though maybe the crashpads brought it down to R... Aug 27, 2011
YDPL8S
Santa Monica, Ca.
YDPL8S   Santa Monica, Ca.
Dancing Madly Backwards is a song by one of my favorite groups of all time - Captain Beyond.

I have one of the original copies of this album with the 3-d picture on the front. Mar 9, 2010
Tradiban  
 
You're right, book says 11c. I think it's more like 11b maybe. 11a would be fair for DL standards though. Jul 13, 2009
Paul Campbell
Waukesha, WI
  5.10b PG13
Paul Campbell   Waukesha, WI
  5.10b PG13
My second edition guidebook says 11c for the direct.

Is 11a from the new third edition? Jul 13, 2009
John W. Knoernschild
Wisconsin
  5.10b PG13
John W. Knoernschild   Wisconsin
  5.10b PG13
I extend the "Congrats" to you as well Nick! Nice lead. Jul 4, 2009
Tradiban  
 
The direct has been led. A small Metolious Master Cam to start and a very good #1 a few feet higher to the left, then run it out to the roof. The holds on "The High Life" are off. Using them would take in a different direction anyway. Just stick to the face on some slopey crimps and little pockets. Two out of four stars for this variation. 5.11a R due to the decking potential going for the good gaston into the roof. Jul 4, 2009
Tradiban  
 
There is a direct version to this that starts directly below the right side of the roof. Book says 5.11a. Jul 2, 2009
James Schroeder
Sauk County, WI
  5.10b PG13
James Schroeder   Sauk County, WI  
  5.10b PG13
It did bite me! Mar 11, 2009
Jay Knower
Campton, NH
  5.10b PG13
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
  5.10b PG13
Ahhh, I think it bit me!!! Mar 11, 2009
James Schroeder
Sauk County, WI
  5.10b PG13
James Schroeder   Sauk County, WI  
  5.10b PG13
This thing is PG13 on TR if you take the bats living in the underclings under the roof into account... Mar 11, 2009
Jay Knower
Campton, NH
  5.10b PG13
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
  5.10b PG13
I think this route is a good lead, but a heads-up one at that. The rock at the bottom is pretty sketchy (a big flake broke off recently) and Ian's right that gear would be worthless at the start. Once the roof is reached, the gear is good, but I think the climbing up to the roof gives this route a PG 13 rating. Apr 24, 2007
Ian Schmit
  5.10b
Ian Schmit  
  5.10b
A stellar lead with gear right when you want it. Avoid all gear on the lower portion of the route as I'm fairly sure it wouldn't hold a fall anyway. The final move (crux for me) is really fun on the sharp end. I'd toproped this in the middle of last summer and lead it just recently without any gear beta or really remembering the moves. A competent 5.10 leader on the quartzite should have no trouble dispatching this climb. Get out there and lead it. Apr 24, 2007
David A Groth
Lacrosse
David A Groth   Lacrosse
I am pretty sure I did the first ascent(first lead that is) in 84. I asked around at that to make sure it was accurate.

Dave Groth Oct 31, 2006
Dylan B.
  5.10b/c
Dylan B.  
  5.10b/c
A second hold has been broken off of this climb this spring (the first was freshly broken last spring). There are now two, bright clean spots on the first ten feet of the ascent. It doesn't really effect the climb, sinde the bottom is so simple anyhow; but it's a reminder to folks not to climb on wet sandstone early in the spring. Apr 29, 2006
Steve Sangdahl
eldo sprngs,co
  5.10b
Steve Sangdahl   eldo sprngs,co
  5.10b
This is one of the best routes up here.has a differnt feel to it. Mar 26, 2005
Jay Knower
Campton, NH
  5.10b PG13
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
  5.10b PG13
As long as you don't go into Curving Crack, I think everything else is legal. The crack above the roof is not part of any other climb, and is the natural line of DMB, in my opinion. Sep 30, 2004
I was wondering if the crack above and right of the roof was considered "in". It looks like the natural line but I was told that it wasn't part of the climb. Any comments? Sep 29, 2004
I just lead this route after going at it 3 times on top rope. I was pumped towards the end before the 2nd crux and put my weight on pro just before the final moves.There was a bit of rope drag, so I gave myself big slack to finish last thin moves.

Overall:0. Good intro into 10s in the park. Except 2 moves in 2 places, it is mostly like 5-8 - 5.9 on quartzite. Those moves are far easier than the Gargantua crux (also 10b in this area). 1. The double rope is very useful on this climb (I used single).2. Be careful on lead as the huge flake under roof actually moves!!3. The route is not probably drawn correctly on the photo here. It actually goes more right exactly after the right end of roof to join the obvious crack running leftwards to the top. Going this way seems easier. Sep 6, 2004
Leo Hski  
 
If anyone cares, Tommy D did the first ascent, and Dave Groth did the first lead sometime around 1983-84.

Leo Hermacinski Apr 28, 2004
Jay Knower
Campton, NH
  5.10b PG13
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
  5.10b PG13
The gear on DMB is actually very solid. I led it this summer after leaving the Lake for a while and forgetting all the beta, and the climb accomodated my fiddling in the wrong pieces of gear. It is strange to lead a route at the Lake that is not completely wired into oblivion.

Double ropes are helpful because of the wandering nature of the climb, but the cruxes are very well proteced by bigger gear(#2 and #3 camalots). If the leader can stomach some easy runout climbing ~5.6 for 10 feet or so at the start and after the roof, and if the leader knows how to use double ropes, this climb is a very safe, enjoyable 5.10 lead. Oct 27, 2003
The first lead of this was definitely by Dave Groth. Mar 28, 2002
Tom Anderson-Brown
Madison, WI
 
Tom Anderson-Brown   Madison, WI
 
I just got an email from an anonymous person saying the first lead ascent of this climb was done by Steve Sangdahl. I don't want to start any fights, so if the person who sent the email would like to post a comment to back up their claim, please do! Mar 23, 2002
First lead by Dave Groth. Feb 26, 2002
dancin madly backwards is at the "old" sandstone area Feb 25, 2002