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Routes in 1.1 - Old Sandstone

"The Nipple" V1-2 5
Africa Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Alligator Wall T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
American Beauty Crack T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Baker Street TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Broken Foot T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Chez's Chimney T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Chez's Chimney variation T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Climber's Arrogance T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Curving Crack T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dancing Madly Backwards T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Deceptive T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Dirty Little Secret T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Everleigh Club Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Freaky Face T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Gargantua T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Girls Named Sue T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Half Crack T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Has Been T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
High Life, The TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Mammalary Magic T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
One-Upper T,TR V2+ 5+ R
Out There TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Pacific Ocean Wall TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Ptooey T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sepsen Wall T,TR 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Seven Seas TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sherlocked T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Swillbillies T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Tarantula T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Team Arturo T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Uberschmidt TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Wave Mechanics TR 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Wobbly Dihedral T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: TR, 40 ft
FA: Eric Zieschie (sp?)
Page Views: 1,038 total, 10/month
Shared By: Tradiban on Jun 8, 2009
Admins: Burt Lindquist, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

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Description

Start in the middle of the face or add a bit of length by starting on POW. Crux will be pulling the lip. If you hit the "Jug" on POW you are off route. The way the climb goes that won't seem natural anyway.

Location

This route is in between POW and Seven Seas at the Old Sandstone area. Ascend directly in the middle of the face, it may share some holds at the beginning with POW and then the same ending as Seven Seas Left.

Protection

TR, possible lead.

Photos

I found out the name and changed it as well as the grade that the new guidebook gives it of 12c. I dunno, seems harder. Remo/Dobbe? Batter up! Jul 2, 2009
Cool, please change it to whatever the new guide says. After flailing around on this thing yesterday I think 12c is a sandbag unless a some sort of different line is being taken. Jun 30, 2009
Jay Knower
Campton, NH
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
I just saw a copy of the new guidebook, and it has this as a 12c. I can't rememeber the name. Anyone have it lying around? Jun 30, 2009
Chris treggE
Madison, Beersconsin
Chris treggE   Madison, Beersconsin  
Ah, I guess they were right in grade school when they said "does not pay attention in class". Yeah I can't wait to get out there, this wall looks so damn cool. Looks like you had a great day out there today. My office doesn't even have a window! Jun 10, 2009
Uh, who said they could do all the moves on day one? Pulling the lip looks really hard! The scoop is no cake walk, but 5.11ish, but after you stand on the lip there are good holds to the top. There is a definite crux and that I can't do. "Most" the moves Eggbert, not "all".
I can't believe you haven't been to this area! You would love it!
What kind of an "Administrator" are you if you haven't climbed EVERYTHING! Jun 10, 2009
Chris treggE
Madison, Beersconsin
Chris treggE   Madison, Beersconsin  
Cool looking line. Ain't much of a project if you can do all the moves on day 1. Sounds like a neat area, I need to get out there! Jun 10, 2009
Thank you Rob for your detective work. A lead would be extremely unprotected. Of course, I said that before...
I don't know if I can send it, even on TR, it seems above me for now. Of course, I said that before also.
EZ, what a fucking cranker! Jun 9, 2009
Jay Knower
Campton, NH
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
This looks like an awesome line. Nice and steep. I've always thought that the sandstone is more conducive to hard climbing than the quartzite. Jun 9, 2009
Rob Riggleman
Santa Barbara, CA
Rob Riggleman   Santa Barbara, CA
It's mentioned here, but it only mentions that EZ did the line, no name, grade, or whether it was TRed or lead. If no one can chime in with definite info, I'd say give it your own name after you send it. Jun 9, 2009
I have not led or TR'd this (I did try and get most of it except pulling the lip) and "TBD" is To Be Determined by the FA. I would like to suggest "Dead Sea Scrolls". The rating of 5.13 is a estimate.
Has it been TR'd by anyone out there?
I vaguely remember someone talking about this line on MP somewhere but I can't find it now. Jun 8, 2009