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Routes in 1. Old Sandstone

"The Nipple" V2 5+
Africa Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Alligator Wall T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
American Beauty Crack T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Baker Street TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Broken Foot T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Chez's Chimney T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Chez's Chimney variation T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Climber's Arrogance T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Curving Crack T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dancing Madly Backwards T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Deceptive T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Dirty Little Secret T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Everleigh Club Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Freaky Face T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Gargantua T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Girls Named Sue T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Half Crack T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Has Been T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
High Life, The TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Mammalary Magic T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
One-Upper T,TR V2+ 5+ R
Out There TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Pacific Ocean Wall TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Ptooey T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sepsen Wall T,TR 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Seven Seas TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sherlocked T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Swillbillies T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Tarantula T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Team Arturo T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Uberschmidt TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Wave Mechanics TR 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Wobbly Dihedral T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
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Type: Trad, TR, 25 ft
FA: Jack C.
Page Views: 386 total · 6/month
Shared By: Jack C. on Aug 15, 2013
Admins: Burton Lindquist, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

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Description

This route climbs like a typical modern comp. route in that it starts off easy and gets harder the farther up you get. Start on the two little bulges and reach (or jump) for the 2/3 finger pocket on the left to start the route, staying off the detached block to your right. Never go farther left than the pocket (as in this is a face climb and don't use the flake that gets farther and farther away from the finish as you get higher up) and don't ever get closer to the dihedral than about 4 feet (pebble level with last move hands is therefore "off"). Sure it's a bit of a squeeze job but it makes the route indefinitely more interesting. Crux is the last few moves for a great finish ending in either an all out dyno from interestingly smeared feet or a long reach depending on your height. Definitely worth the extra little bushwhack if you're in the area.

Location

Continue along the top of the Old Sandstone area past the last route in the latest edition of the guidebook (Shin Bone). The face is flat for a while and then you'll hit a dihedral. Rap down there and you'll be at the base of Climber's Arrogance.

Protection

Sling the two trees for a perfectly centered anchor. #1 rock or a #4 BD wire for the first placement about 15 feet up might stay put. Astros would fit nicely in the horizontal crack the end move comes off of and would be extremely welcome pro for the hairy last reach.

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Jack C.
Calgary, AB
  5.11a
Jack C.   Calgary, AB
  5.11a
Last moves took a while to work out compared to second try on Deceptive (5.10 c/d) and the onsight of Baker Street (5.10d) hence the slightly harder grade. I'd love to get some input though. Aug 15, 2013

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