Type: Trad, TR, 25 ft (8 m)
FA: Jack C.
Page Views: 1,166 total · 9/month
Shared By: Jack C on Aug 15, 2013
Admins: Ian Cotter-Brown, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, chris tregge, Ben Strobel, Kyle Harding

You & This Route


1 Opinions
Your To-Do List: Add To-Do ·
Your Star Rating:
Rating Rating Rating Rating Rating      Clear Rating
Your Difficulty Rating:
-none- Change
Your Ticks:Add New Tick
-none-
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Description Suggest change

This route climbs like a typical modern comp. route in that it starts off easy and gets harder the farther up you get. Start on the two little bulges and reach (or jump) for the 2/3 finger pocket on the left to start the route, staying off the detached block to your right. Never go farther left than the pocket (as in this is a face climb and don't use the flake that gets farther and farther away from the finish as you get higher up) and don't ever get closer to the dihedral than about 4 feet (pebble level with last move hands is therefore "off"). Sure it's a bit of a squeeze job but it makes the route indefinitely more interesting. Crux is the last few moves for a great finish ending in either an all out dyno from interestingly smeared feet or a long reach depending on your height. Definitely worth the extra little bushwhack if you're in the area.

Location Suggest change

Continue along the top of the Old Sandstone area past the last route in the latest edition of the guidebook (Shin Bone). The face is flat for a while and then you'll hit a dihedral. Rap down there and you'll be at the base of Climber's Arrogance.

Protection Suggest change

Sling the two trees for a perfectly centered anchor. #1 rock or a #4 BD wire for the first placement about 15 feet up might stay put. Astros would fit nicely in the horizontal crack the end move comes off of and would be extremely welcome pro for the hairy last reach.

Photos

- No Photos -
loading