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Routes in 1. Old Sandstone

"The Nipple" V1-2 5
Africa Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Alligator Wall T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
American Beauty Crack T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Baker Street TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Broken Foot T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Chez's Chimney T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Chez's Chimney variation T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Climber's Arrogance T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Curving Crack T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dancing Madly Backwards T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Deceptive T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Dirty Little Secret T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Everleigh Club Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Freaky Face T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Gargantua T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Girls Named Sue T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Half Crack T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Has Been T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
High Life, The TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Mammalary Magic T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
One-Upper T,TR V2+ 5+ R
Out There TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Pacific Ocean Wall TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Ptooey T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sepsen Wall T,TR 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Seven Seas TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sherlocked T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Swillbillies T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Tarantula T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Team Arturo T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Uberschmidt TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Wave Mechanics TR 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Wobbly Dihedral T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
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Type: TR
FA: Jay Knower, 2009
Page Views: 188 total · 2/month
Shared By: Jay Knower on Jul 4, 2009
Admins: Burton Lindquist, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

You & This Route


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Description

The High Life climbs an independent line between Dancing Madly Backwards Direct and Curving Crack. Start on juggy, steep climbing left of Curving Crack and climb to a ledge. Next, move onto the thin, lower-angled face. This is the crux for many. Resist the urge to use holds on Dancing Madly Backwards.

Once past the thin crux, head up and right under a shallow overhang, pull the overhang by using a cool sequence involving a lock-off on a slopey pocket. Climb slopey horizontals to the top. Make sure to stay on the face--the right corner is out of bounds for the whole route.

It's possible to link the wall of Dancing Madly Backwards Direct into the crux of The High Life, thereby producing The High Life Direct, a 5.11c crimping exercise.

Protection

Toprope. It could be led using the DL in reach rule.

Photos

John W. Knoernschild
Wisconsin
 
John W. Knoernschild   Wisconsin
 
This is a great line. The movement is really good. Needs to see more traffic now that it is pretty clean. Nice eye Jay. Jul 4, 2009
Paul Campbell
Waukesha, WI
 
Paul Campbell   Waukesha, WI
 
Fun line, the crux for me ended up being the "nipple" traverse into the lockoff on the slopey pocket.

After it gets a bit cleaner definitely 3-stars. Jul 5, 2009
Chris treggE
Madison, Beersconsin
Chris treggE   Madison, Beersconsin  
Nice Jay!! Jul 5, 2009
Tradiban
  5.11b R
Tradiban  
  5.11b R
Led the direct, pro is pretty weak to start, then bomber in the first roof, one ok medium cam before hitting the top slab, then sketchy micro cams to the top. Not too dirty at all! Double ropes would have been nice for this route.

I didnt use the holds on Dancing Madly but I did break my rule and plug pro in the roof because otherwise the runout would have been quite reckless.

Really fun moves on thos one. Felt like climbing quartzite moves but on some good friction. Mar 19, 2010
Paul Campbell
Waukesha, WI
 
Paul Campbell   Waukesha, WI
 
Went back to this on Thursday and could not figure out the slab before the small roof. Felt totally impossible, how the hell did I get past that before? My slab skills must be deteriorating... Aug 22, 2011

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