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Routes in 1.1 - Old Sandstone

"The Nipple" V1-2 5
Africa Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Alligator Wall T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
American Beauty Crack T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Baker Street TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Broken Foot T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Chez's Chimney T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Chez's Chimney variation T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Climber's Arrogance T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Curving Crack T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dancing Madly Backwards T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Deceptive T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Dirty Little Secret T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Everleigh Club Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Freaky Face T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Gargantua T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Girls Named Sue T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Half Crack T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Has Been T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
High Life, The TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Mammalary Magic T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
One-Upper T,TR V2+ 5+ R
Out There TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Pacific Ocean Wall TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Ptooey T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sepsen Wall T,TR 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Seven Seas TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sherlocked T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Swillbillies T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Tarantula T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Team Arturo T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Uberschmidt TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Wave Mechanics TR 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Wobbly Dihedral T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, TR, 65 ft
FA: probably Ralph Schimdt and Sal Sepson
Page Views: 170 total, 1/month
Shared By: John W. Knoernschild on Jun 23, 2008
Admins: Burt Lindquist, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

You & This Route


13 Opinions

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Description

Climb a few feet right of "Curving Crack". Move up on small crimps to rest ledge and overhang. Move through overhang on nice jug and layback to top.

Location

Between "Curving Crack" and "Out There"

Protection

The pro is is non-existent until you reach the overhang (you could place pro to the left into curving crack). From there is it protectable with small wires and cams.
Burt Lindquist
Madison, WI
Burt Lindquist   Madison, WI  
Well... I know for sure that using those holds off to the left make the grade easier... So call it climbing Deceptive with maybe an easier 5.10 grade? Do and climb whatever you like... there are no real rules regarding that particular aspect of rock climbing. But then later when your recounting (or bragging... talking smack) just be honest and admit you reached off to the left when doing the entrance moves of "Deceptive". Jul 21, 2014
CCas
Chicago, IL
CCas   Chicago, IL
My climbing partner and I got into a heated discussion on what is technically "off" on this line and I wanted to ask the Lake community their opinion. I know you cannot use any part of Curving, but is it acceptable to use any of the rounded corners that eventually turn into Curving on the climbers left below the first rest?

Being a route purest I said no and that it was technically was not park of the "face," but they said it was acceptable... any thoughts? Jul 20, 2014
Tradiban
  5.10+ R
Tradiban  
  5.10+ R
I would say more is better, so up and right higher is proper. Nov 5, 2011
Michael Sullivan
Seattle, WA
  5.10c/d PG13
Michael Sullivan   Seattle, WA  
  5.10c/d PG13
Does anyone know where the proper location of this route's finish is? Does it finish to the right of Curving Crack at the same ledge? Or does it finish to the right and above Curving Crack as Trad Ninja can be seen doing in photos of the route? Could these two variations perhaps explain the difference in suggested rating from 10c to 10+? Nov 4, 2011
Tradiban
  5.10+ R
Tradiban  
  5.10+ R
I got a directional in a few feet up and then not another piece until the rest spot. I gave it "R" because of the crimpy solo to the rest. Good moves all the way with another distinct crux at the top protected with some ball nuts. Probably not climbed enough. "Out There" (5.9+) to the right of this is also very good and often over-looked. Jun 29, 2009
Steve Sangdahl
eldo sprngs,co
Steve Sangdahl   eldo sprngs,co
not sure on the fa on this one .....perhaps the infamous Ralph schimdt and Sal sepson Jul 2, 2008
John W. Knoernschild
Wisconsin
 
John W. Knoernschild   Wisconsin
 
FA anyone?? Jul 2, 2008