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Routes in 1.1 - Old Sandstone

"The Nipple" V1-2 5
Africa Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Alligator Wall T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
American Beauty Crack T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Baker Street TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Broken Foot T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Chez's Chimney T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Chez's Chimney variation T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Climber's Arrogance T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Curving Crack T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dancing Madly Backwards T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Deceptive T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Dirty Little Secret T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Everleigh Club Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Freaky Face T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Gargantua T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Girls Named Sue T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Half Crack T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Has Been T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
High Life, The TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Mammalary Magic T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
One-Upper T,TR V2+ 5+ R
Out There TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Pacific Ocean Wall TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Ptooey T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sepsen Wall T,TR 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Seven Seas TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sherlocked T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Swillbillies T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Tarantula T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Team Arturo T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Uberschmidt TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Wave Mechanics TR 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Wobbly Dihedral T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 45 ft
FA: Old School
Page Views: 1,076 total, 14/month
Shared By: Andy Hansen on Aug 21, 2011
Admins: Burt Lindquist, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

You & This Route


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Description

This is route #12 in Sven's Book. The route starts behind an oak tree to the right of Freaky Face. Move up the corner and crack onto a decent rest ledge. From there place good gear and then get into the crack to your left using good sidepulls and finger locks. A few tricky balancy moves up the crack lead to a good finger lock and mantle move onto a sloping ledge. Scramble to the top and shake yr ass like a drunken swillbilly.

Location

10 feet to the right of Freaky Face

Protection

Standard Rack

Photos

Joe "Big Boi" Osterman
Portland, OR
 
Joe "Big Boi" Osterman   Portland, OR
 
Awesome lead. Its super fun pulling into the crack and cool moves to the top. Oct 14, 2013
Josh Olson
Durango, CO
  5.6
Josh Olson   Durango, CO
  5.6
Fantastic route. Love the topout moves, definitely a great lead. May 29, 2012
Tradiban
  5.6
Tradiban  
  5.6
Very protectable and fun. A excellent first lead at The Lake. More like 5.6. Oct 9, 2011
Tom Mulholland
#1 Cheese Producing State!
Tom Mulholland   #1 Cheese Producing State!
I think Josh Schmale led this (I followed) a few weeks ago. Not a very impressive climb, but it has a few easy jams for the beginning crack climber. Sep 27, 2011
Paul Campbell
Waukesha, WI
Paul Campbell   Waukesha, WI
Oh I got after it!

On a side note, my non-climbing friend also sent the route. But he used the tree behind the climb to stem LOL. Valid ascent? Sep 27, 2011
Andy Hansen
Longmont, Colorado
 
Andy Hansen   Longmont, Colorado
 
Nice Paul! Way to get after it! Sep 27, 2011
Paul Campbell
Waukesha, WI
Paul Campbell   Waukesha, WI
I TR'ed this thing when I first started climbing. I call choss pile! :P Sep 27, 2011
Andy Hansen
Longmont, Colorado
 
Andy Hansen   Longmont, Colorado
 
Anybody else gonna sack up and tackle this one? Or are ya scaaarrreeeed? Sep 26, 2011