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Areas in Wisconsin

420th Bluff 0 / 0 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
Big Ben (Green Bay, Brown County, WI) 0 / 0 / 0 / 9 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 9
Big Falls Bouldering 0 / 0 / 0 / 9 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 9
Black Hawk Lake Recreation Area 0 / 0 / 0 / 16 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 16
Black River Falls 1 / 1 / 1 / 52 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 53
Buildering Sites 5 / 0 / 3 / 41 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 44
Cave Point County Park (Door County) 0 / 0 / 0 / 8 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 8
Central Sandstone 25 / 0 / 28 / 48 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 81
Devil's Lake 820 / 0 / 828 / 1017 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2036
Donald Park 0 / 0 / 0 / 5 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 5
Door County Lake Trail Bouldering 0 / 0 / 0 / 5 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 5
Dudley Davis Quarry Park: Shorewood Hills, Madison 0 / 0 / 0 / 8 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 8
Fishin' Crag (Castle Rock South), The 10 / 18 / 6 / 7 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 38
Gibraltar Rock 1 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Governor Dodge State Park 8 / 16 / 17 / 307 / 8 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 343
Grandad's Bluff 1 / 40 / 15 / 11 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 63
Grant County Ice 5 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 6 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 6
Great Wall (Green Bay, Brown County, WI), The 0 / 0 / 0 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
High Cliff State Park 8 / 0 / 24 / 50 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 75
Hillbilly Hollow 15 / 11 / 23 / 21 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 52
Horicon 2 / 0 / 4 / 10 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 14
Ice Pit (CLOSED), The 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Interstate State Park 31 / 0 / 41 / 28 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 73
Jake's Rock 0 / 0 / 0 / 16 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 16
Jim Falls 0 / 0 / 0 / 20 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 20
Lone Rock 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
M, The 0 / 0 / 0 / 14 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 14
Monico Boulders 0 / 0 / 0 / 9 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 9
Mountain, WI Bouldering Area 0 / 0 / 0 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
Mt. Simon 0 / 0 / 7 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 7
Necedah (Petenwell Bluff) 47 / 28 / 19 / 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 81
Oak Leaf Bike Trail (bridge buildering) 0 / 0 / 0 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
Razor Wall 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Redgranite Quarry 0 / 0 / 0 / 6 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 6
Rib Mountain 0 / 0 / 0 / 103 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 103
Rock Behind the Rugby Field 0 / 0 / 0 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
Shiprock (a.k.a. Sh*trock) 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Stevens Point Buildering 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Weidman Memorial Park 0 / 0 / 0 / 8 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 8
Wequiock Falls 1 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Westby Bouldering 0 / 0 / 0 / 42 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 42
Willow River State Park 0 / 47 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 47
Wolf Rock 0 / 0 / 0 / 5 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 5
Wyalusing ice 8 / 0 / 8 / 0 / 15 / 0 / 2 / 0 / 15
Elevation: 1,222 ft
GPS: 44.465, -89.473 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 1,277,188 total, 6,189/month
Admins: Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

Wisconsin Rocks

Welcome to Wisconsin, home to some of the Upper Midwest's finest rock climbing venues. Probably, the most popular and highest quantity of climbing can be found at Devil's Lake. Nonetheless, there are other scattered crags in the state for those who are willing to drive and explore. Don't expect to find towering cliffs here, but there is an amazing quality and history to the climbing in the state.

Steve Schultz on Good Morning Veruca, Devil's Lake


Ted Kryzer on Wild West Homo, Devil's Lake


Henning Boldt climbing Fire In The Sky, Necedah (Petenwell Bluff)

3,330 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

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Classic Climbing Routes at Wisconsin

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
V4 6B
The Godfather
Boulder
V4+ 6B+
Hangman
Boulder
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Queen's Throne
Trad, TR
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
East Comfort Route
Trad
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Brinton's Crack
Trad
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Air
Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Peter's Project
Trad, TR
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Birch Tree Crack
Trad, TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Upper Diagonal
Trad, TR
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Congratulations
Trad, TR
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sometime Crack
Trad, TR
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Mouse's Misery
Trad, TR
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tower Route
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Cheatah
Trad, TR
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Thoroughfare
Trad, TR
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
The Godfather Governor Dodge SP > Box Canyon Boulders > Godfather Boulder V4 6B Boulder
Hangman Governor Dodge SP > … > Backbone Ridge > E Side- Backbone Ridge V4+ 6B+ Boulder
Queen's Throne Devil's Lake > W Bluff - Cleo Am… > Cleo Amphitheater 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Trad, TR
East Comfort Route Devil's Lake > W Bluff - Cleo Am… > Cleopatra's Needle 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Trad
Brinton's Crack Devil's Lake > E Bluff 04 - E Ra… > Brinton's Buttress 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad
Air Necedah (Petenwel… > Air Spire 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad
Peter's Project Devil's Lake > E Bluff 04 - E Ra… > Many Pines Buttress 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, TR
Birch Tree Crack Devil's Lake > E Bluff 04 - E Ra… > Pedestal Buttress 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, TR
Upper Diagonal Devil's Lake > E Bluff 04 - E Ra… > Pedestal Buttress 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, TR
Congratulations Devil's Lake > E Bluff 04 - E Ra… > Pedestal Buttress 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad, TR
Sometime Crack Devil's Lake > E Bluff 04 - E Ra… > Pedestal Buttress 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad, TR
Mouse's Misery Devil's Lake > E Bluff 04 - E Ra… > Two Pines Buttress 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R Trad, TR
Tower Route Necedah (Petenwel… > Y-Crack Wall 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Cheatah Devil's Lake > E Bluff 04 - E Ra… > Bill's Buttress 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, TR
Thoroughfare Devil's Lake > E Bluff 04 - E Ra… > Two Pines Buttress 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad, TR
More Classic Climbs in Wisconsin »

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Photos

Chris treggE
Madison, Beersconsin
Chris treggE   Madison, Beersconsin  
New guidebook coming out to Devil's Lake, Necedah, and Hillbilly Hollow, limited time $5 off pre-orders:

wolverinepublishing.com/cli… Aug 4, 2016
Adam Peters
Salt Lake City, Utah
Adam Peters   Salt Lake City, Utah
Devil's Lake Craggin' Classic is coming up fast! Grab your tickets at Craggin' Classic


youtube.com/watch?v=M9PaZbB… Sep 30, 2015
Chris treggE
Madison, Beersconsin
Chris treggE   Madison, Beersconsin  
Boulder bash 2014 next weekend at governor dodge! Check out the promo video:

vimeo.com/106541711 Sep 19, 2014
Chris treggE
Madison, Beersconsin
Chris treggE   Madison, Beersconsin  
The downed trees are tricky because you are allowed to cut up fallen trees for campfires, but for that you need to rent a group site. You can't just show up and start cutting. So, the WCA is coordinating a time for that to happen but it won't be in the next few weeks probably. There is still plenty to climb.

If you get bored there, the "north shore" area at DL is easy to find, and from there you can hike the east bluff trail and there is a lot that's easy to find along there, too. Likewise, there are a couple areas that are easy to find on the west bluff along the tumbled rocks trail. Don't let the rumors dissuade you from climbing at DL. The guidebook is coming... Jul 26, 2014
Hey Chris thanks for the quick reply. I plan on staying for 3-4 days bouldering in the area. I'm coming from Michigan and there are rumors here that most of the boulders in DL are hard to find due to lack there of a proper guide book. Dodge seems most appealing thus far, simply because of the sandstone(despite the choss) and the size of the area seems much smaller then DL.

Is there any word when some of these trees in the area might be taken care of? Jul 26, 2014
Chris treggE
Madison, Beersconsin
Chris treggE   Madison, Beersconsin  
John- how much time you got and what are your goals? High concentration of stuff with easy approaches at gov dodge, but rock can be suspect. DL stuff is more spread out with better rock but longer approaches. Either area you choose I'm sure you will have fun. There was a storm that knocked over some trees at the best area at the dodge recently (group camp B) and some problems are covered on deadfall right now. Jul 25, 2014
Out of the two areas (Devils Lake and Governor Dodge), which is more enjoyable to climb and find problems at? I'm looking to spend some time bouldering in these areas. Jul 25, 2014
Keenan Knight
Eau Claire, WI
Keenan Knight   Eau Claire, WI
I am looking for a partner around the Eau Claire area with ropes that would like to clean and establish some new lines. Jun 6, 2014
James Schroeder
Sauk County, WI
James Schroeder   Sauk County, WI  
CJ - Just send me a message through MP when it gets closer to you getting out here and if I'm around I'll meet up with you guys. As far as guidebooks go, MP has the most up-to-date info available.

Cheers,
James Feb 14, 2014
Thanks James! Governor looks great! We LOVE climbing on sandstone and there appears to be camping there as well? Hard to pass up a one stop area. We'll be coming in the later half of Aug and it would be great to meet up with a local!! Would you be willing to sent me your contact info at some point? Is there a guide book or topo available anywhere (in case we're not able to hookup)?
Feb 13, 2014
James Schroeder
Sauk County, WI
James Schroeder   Sauk County, WI  
CJ,

The bouldering at Governor Dodge and Devils Lake is excellent. As far as sport climbing you could check out Grandad's Bluff, Necedah, Hillbilly Hollow or Governor Dodge. Devils Lake is the mecca of toproping and a bunch of webbing with a set of nuts is all you'd need to see you through that.

If you choose Devils Lake or Governor Dodge drop me a line on your way through. Feb 13, 2014
Hi all! My wife and I will be out west this summer sport climbing and bouldering (CO & WY) and we would like to break up our trip back east and WI looks like a good place to stop for a couple of days. Which area(s) should we look to stop and climb at? We won't have any trad gear as that's what we do regularly... Thanks for the beta. Feb 13, 2014
Greeley, you might be closer to Duluth. Check out stuff in Duluth and Ely's Peak and of course further up the Shore. Oct 26, 2013
Does anyone know the condition of the wall at willow? I heard there has been a lot of rain lately. Is it climbable? Jun 28, 2013
Greeley  
Thanks, Remo. I know about Interstate Park, but I was hoping to find something farther north. Know of anything? Jun 9, 2013
Remo
Madison, WI
Remo   Madison, WI
Hey Greeley,

Check out Interstate State Park near Saint Croix Falls. Lots of great Trad, TR, and bouldering opportunities. Good luck. May 25, 2013
Greeley  
Is there any climbing in northwestern Wisconsin? I'm headed to some cabins this summer near Siren, WI and Hayward, WI and I'm trying to find something to climb on while I'm up there -- a mini-crag, a boulder, a retaining wall, anything! So far I haven't had much luck searching the interwebs. May 24, 2013
Jeff VS  
Devil's Lake: The top of Sunken Pillar/der Glotz on Balanced Rock Wall is missing! Large rock fall in the last few days. Doesn't change the rating of anything but there is a different look. Perfect climbing day today. 50+ degrees in the middle of January! Jan 10, 2012
Juggler  
To All Chicago Area Climbers:

I am looking for partners to go to WI climbing and other locations(Jackson Falls, DL, The Red, Grand Dads, etc) with.

I have an Airplane and can fly us there. Please send me a PM if you want more details and the cost of sharing the flight expenses. Hope to meet a few of you soon. I can fit up to 4 climbers with me in the Cherokee 6(with room for gear). I also have lodging available in a log cabin in the area :) May 31, 2011
Thanks for the info...any pictures of U South? Apr 14, 2011
I am consulting for the U South Wall. It's about 30ft tall and features 4 auto-belays, plus a small boudering cave. The wall is mostly geared to beginners (I did the setting) with a harder route or two mixed in (5.10 max). There is also an awesome crack to climb (Jason Skinner FA). One of the auto belays is on a "realistic" wall which looks good but severally limits what you can set on it.

All the holds are Nicros and setting is mostly done by hold color and not by colored tape (less mess).

Hours are roughly going to be 4pm-9pm I think.

I believe you can go down and check it out starting next Monday. Apr 14, 2011
The new Union South in Madison is advertising that they have a climbing and bouldering wall and is opening this week...anyone know anything about the size and/or quality of these supposed walls? Apr 14, 2011
Leveille
Appleton, WI
Leveille   Appleton, WI
Anyone climb around Niagara, Wi? It seems like there is a decently long and high cliff band with no houses on top or anything so it might be a city/county park. Maybe the mill there owns the part behind the mill but most of it seems pretty accessible. It does look quite virgin (dirty) though. It also looks like high quality High Cliff stone under the dirt/moss/etc. I checked out the Niagara's website and they don't really mention the cliffs specifically though it sounds like there are various other gorges, etc. in the area. Jul 26, 2008
TravisMelin
Portland, OR, Roanoke, VA L
TravisMelin   Portland, OR, Roanoke, VA L
I scoped out a great deal of the central area just north of the border (my folks live there). The best I found was a stone watertower (project still), and a stone barn (V5 traverse)....any true rock was all choss or too short. May 14, 2008
sweatpants
Broomfield, CO
sweatpants   Broomfield, CO
I was curious if anyone knows of any bouldering that's been found in southern wisconsin or northern Illinois that might not be very well known? Just figured I'd ask. any info is appreciated. thanks! May 14, 2008
Leo Paik
Westminster, Colorado
Leo Paik   Westminster, Colorado  
Anyone climb at the cliffs near Greenleaf off WI Hwy 57? One hiker mentioned it had the same Niagara escarpment limestone as High Cliff State Park but taller cliffs. Apr 23, 2008

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