Elevation: 1,062 ft
GPS: 44.04542, -90.02007
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Shared By: chris tregge on Oct 26, 2004 · Updates
Admins: Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, chris tregge

Description

Perhaps the best sport climbing area in Wisconsin now that Gibraltar is closed, Necedah has been drawing Wisconsin's finest for decades. Comprised of solid, colorful sandstone, these walls offer interesting climbing on clean, steep rock. Upon arriving at the cliff, THE wall invariably grabs the climber's attention. Fifty feet tall and steadily overhanging, this wall holds some of the best climbing in the Midwest.

Y-Crack (also called Wide Crack) splits the wall, with technical and pumpy jamming on its left variation (5.10d/11a) and technical crimping with thin gear on its right (5.11c). Many difficult sport climbs broach the wall's flanks and feature technical climbing with no rests. Wisconsin's premier sport route, "Whiskey a Go Go" (5.13a) can be found here.

Spires are situated around the wall like moons around a planet, and a mega classic 5.9/10a climbs up the center of the largest spire. On a clear day Roch a Cri, Wisconsin's largest cliff (now closed to climbing), can be spotted from the top of the spire. Further down Necedah's backbone of rock, the adventurous climber can find many exciting trad routes and some hidden sport gems.

If you visit Necedah, please keep a low profile. Climbers have been here for many years and Necedah has remained a peaceful place to escape the Devil's Lake throngs. PLEASE KEEP IT THAT WAY.

Dont even THINK about camping there; we don't need to get this place closed.  There is nearby camping at Buckhorn State Park, Petenwell County Park, Adams County Castle Rock Park, and seasonal camping at Roche-a-Cri State Park (no climbing).  These last two also give you quick access to the Quincy Bluff/Rattlesnake Mound and Hillbilly Hollow areas.

Getting There

From the town of Necedah, drive east about three miles on Highway 21. You'll see the sandstone towers right in front of you. Take a right onto the road that parallels the cliff (19th Avenue), and park in a pull-out on your left a half mile down. A short hike through the woods straight back and then uphill to the left will take you to Y-Crack, the southern most formation.

Parking at the south end is at coordinates: 44.042510,-90.020508

There is also parking at the north end of the bluff, on a spur road beside Highway 21. Walk south into the woods until you find an old logging road angling back north - please don't scramble straight up.  This takes you right to the base of Anthrax, and gives you good access to everything from Riverboat north.

101 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Necedah (Petenwell Rock)

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 67
Phallus in Wonderland
Trad 2 pitches
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 273
Air
Trad
5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
 140
Glass Balls
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 74
Chucklehead Crack (aka Spike's C…
Trad 2 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 79
Hydroponics
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 188
Tower Route
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 118
Mercy F**k
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 74
Fire in the Sky
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 107
Riverboat Gambler
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 104
Y-Crack (aka Old and in the Way)
Trad, TR
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 98
Dakota Farms Cheese
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 59
Anthrax
Sport, TR
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 110
Early Times
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 43
Straight No Chaser
Trad, TR
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 66
Whiskey a Go-Go
Sport, TR
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Phallus in Wonderland 04. Air Spire
 67
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad 2 pitches
Air 04. Air Spire
 273
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad
Glass Balls 06. Hell Wall (aka Qu…
 140
5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c Sport
Chucklehead Crack (aka Spik… 04. Air Spire
 74
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 2 pitches
Hydroponics 01. Coyote Tower
 79
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Tower Route 02. Y-Crack Wall
 188
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Mercy F**k 06. Hell Wall (aka Qu…
 118
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Fire in the Sky 05. Fire Spire
 74
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Riverboat Gambler 10. Above Anthrax
 107
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Y-Crack (aka Old and in the… 02. Y-Crack Wall
 104
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad, TR
Dakota Farms Cheese 02. Y-Crack Wall
 98
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Anthrax 12. Anthrax Wall
 59
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport, TR
Early Times 02. Y-Crack Wall
 110
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Straight No Chaser 02. Y-Crack Wall
 43
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad, TR
Whiskey a Go-Go 02. Y-Crack Wall
 66
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport, TR
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