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Elevation: 1,062 ft 324 m
GPS: 44.04542, -90.02007
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Shared By: chris tregge on Oct 26, 2004 · Updates
Admins: Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, chris tregge, Ben Strobel, Kyle Harding

Description Suggest change

Perhaps the best sport climbing area in Wisconsin now that Gibraltar is closed, Necedah has been drawing Wisconsin's finest for decades. Comprised of solid, colorful sandstone, these walls offer interesting climbing on clean, steep rock. Upon arriving at the cliff, THE wall invariably grabs the climber's attention. Fifty feet tall and steadily overhanging, this wall holds some of the best climbing in the Midwest.

Y-Crack (also called Wide Crack) splits the wall, with technical and pumpy jamming on its left variation (5.10d/11a) and technical crimping with thin gear on its right (5.11c). Many difficult sport climbs broach the wall's flanks and feature technical climbing with no rests. Wisconsin's premier sport route, "Whiskey a Go Go" (5.13a) can be found here.

Spires are situated around the wall like moons around a planet, and a mega classic 5.9/10a climbs up the center of the largest spire. On a clear day Roch a Cri, Wisconsin's largest cliff (now closed to climbing), can be spotted from the top of the spire. Further down Necedah's backbone of rock, the adventurous climber can find many exciting trad routes and some hidden sport gems.

If you visit Necedah, please keep a low profile. Climbers have been here for many years and Necedah has remained a peaceful place to escape the Devil's Lake throngs. PLEASE KEEP IT THAT WAY.

Dont even THINK about camping there; we don't need to get this place closed.  There is nearby camping at Buckhorn State Park, Petenwell County Park, Adams County Castle Rock Park, and seasonal camping at Roche-a-Cri State Park (no climbing).  These last two also give you quick access to the Quincy Bluff/Rattlesnake Mound and Hillbilly Hollow areas.

Getting There Suggest change

From the town of Necedah, drive east about three miles on Highway 21. You'll see the sandstone towers right in front of you. Take a right onto the road that parallels the cliff (19th Avenue), and park in a pull-out on your left a half mile down. A short hike through the woods straight back and then uphill to the left will take you to Y-Crack, the southern most formation.

Parking at the south end is at coordinates: 44.042510,-90.020508

There is also parking at the north end of the bluff, on a spur road beside Highway 21. Walk south into the woods until you find an old logging road angling back north - please don't scramble straight up.  This takes you right to the base of Anthrax, and gives you good access to everything from Riverboat north.

103 Total Climbs

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Location: Necedah (Petenwell Rock) Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Necedah (Petenwell Rock)

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 294
Air
Trad
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 79
Phallus in Wonderland
Trad 2 pitches
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 158
Glass Balls
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
 22
Against Medical Advice
Trad 10 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 210
Tower Route
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 126
Riverboat Gambler
Sport
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
 129
Mercy F**k
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 109
Y-Crack (aka Old and in the Way)
Trad, TR
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 66
Anthrax
Sport, TR
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 106
Dakota Farms Cheese
Sport
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 127
Early Times
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 45
Straight No Chaser
Trad, TR
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 71
Whiskey a Go-Go
Sport, TR
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
 5
Late Night Chalk Show
Sport
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
 4
Y Not
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Air 04. Air Spire
 294
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad
Phallus in Wonderland 04. Air Spire
 79
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad 2 pitches
Glass Balls 06. Hell Wall (aka Qu…
 158
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
Against Medical Advice Necedah Linkups
 22
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R Trad 10 pitches
Tower Route 02. Y-Crack Wall
 210
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Riverboat Gambler 10. Above Anthrax
 126
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Mercy F**k 06. Hell Wall (aka Qu…
 129
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Sport
Y-Crack (aka Old and in the… 02. Y-Crack Wall
 109
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad, TR
Anthrax 12. Anthrax Wall
 66
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport, TR
Dakota Farms Cheese 02. Y-Crack Wall
 106
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Early Times 02. Y-Crack Wall
 127
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Straight No Chaser 02. Y-Crack Wall
 45
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad, TR
Whiskey a Go-Go 02. Y-Crack Wall
 71
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport, TR
Late Night Chalk Show 10. Above Anthrax
 5
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c Sport
Y Not 02. Y-Crack Wall
 4
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c Sport
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