Type: Sport, TR, 55 ft
FA: Ralph Schmidt
Page Views: 345 total · 2/month
Shared By: JJ Schlick on Sep 12, 2006
Admins: Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, chris tregge

You & This Route


20 Opinions

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Description

The right hand bolted route. If you climb right on the bolts at the bottom using thin crimps, as Schmidt intended, the grade is 12c. If you climb the nice arete to the right and stretch out to clip the bolts the whole thing will feel about .11a-ish. This last way of climbing it is really enjoyable and I would give that 3 stars.

Location

North end.

Protection

Bolts to chain anchor.

Photos

Tradiban
  5.11
Tradiban  
  5.11
Classic route if you use the arete. Bolts are easily clipped from there. 5.11a that way. Didn't even try the face directly. Apr 23, 2010
Tradiban
  5.11
Tradiban  
  5.11
Known as "Anthrax" in the Ryan Hansen guide book. Jun 11, 2010
The face (direct) line felt like .12a. Sep 27, 2010
James Schroeder
Sauk County, WI
  5.10c
James Schroeder   Sauk County, WI  
  5.10c
This thing, if you make full use of the arete (and you should to avoid DL-style contrivedness), is upper-10's at best. If you compare it to the litany (DMB, Tarantula, Gargantua, etc.) of routes that are given 5.10b at the Old Sandstone area of Devil's Lake, and you'll almost certainly come to the conclusion that this is no harder than them (but maybe those deserve 5.10c?). Sep 27, 2015
Remo
Madison, WI
  5.10d
Remo   Madison, WI
  5.10d
Just a heads up, there is some choss up there. I broke a huge foot at the top and took a nasty ride. Oct 15, 2018