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Routes in Y-Crack Wall

A Dish to Pass S,TR 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Blinded by Lust S,TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Dakota Farms Cheese S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Death of A Salesman T,TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Eagle Rare T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Early Times S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Easy Tower Route T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Green Zipper T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Little Rebel Crack AKA Ezra Brooks T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Little pine T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Rebel Yell T,TR 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Straight No Chaser T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Ten High T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Tower Route S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
West Face of Tower T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Whiskey Chimney (aka Pigeon Crack) T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Whiskey a Go-Go S,TR 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Y-Crack (aka Old and in the Way) T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Sport, TR, 50 ft
FA: Dave Groth
Page Views: 13,640 total, 84/month
Shared By: Jay Knower on Aug 14, 2004
Admins: Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

You & This Route


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Description

Whiskey a Go Go climbs the wall just left of the saddle between the wall and the spire. The climb follows discontinuous cracks up the steep face.

The bottom of the face is heavily featured and offers 5.10ish climbing up to the second bolt. The features eventually run out and force the climber into exceedingly thin and dynamic moves to link the widely spaced cracks. Once past the crux, some welcome pockets await; however, they offer little reprieve. A classic top out deposits the climber on a ledge with anchors.

All in all: 50 feet of climbing, increasingly strenuous moves with no rests on perfect, beautiful sandstone. I call it the best hard route in Wisconsin.

Note: Dave Groth (FA) intended for the last bolt to be clipped and for the climbing to remain on the face the whole way. Bailing left before the last bolt and climbing easier rock to the top is considerably easier and is NOT the original route.

Protection

Bolts. Whiskey was originally led on dicey natural protection, but has since been retro-bolted for the benefit of all.
Landon Schoenmann
Oshkosh
 
Landon Schoenmann   Oshkosh
 
Got on this route for the first time last week and have to say it was just like all my other experiences at Necedah......incredible. Love this place. P.s. Rain halted the fun. Bail biner prize on fourth bolt for next one up. Oct 28, 2015
And to answer your question about the bolts Randy, there are two old SMC hangers among newer bolts, so I assume those are the originals. Bolts #3 and #5 of 6 total. But, I think the gear is pretty reasonable to protect all the way with a little "R" and since Peter upped the ante I think any bolts are now off-limits for a true gear ascent. Nov 19, 2011
randy baum
Minneapolis, MN
 
randy baum   Minneapolis, MN
 
whiskey on gear. baller! Nov 17, 2011
For the record I believe Pete Vinitov lead this on all gear before Burr and himself came to DL for the Climbing Mag photo shoot. Nov 17, 2011
JJ Schlick
Flagstaff, AZ
 
JJ Schlick   Flagstaff, AZ  
 
I was sixteen at the time, and had a proud year or so of climbing experience. Mostly self taught, I had survived many a mistake, before Dave Groth got a hold of me... It was a muggy day, and bugs were thick. Dave and I met Thomas Ramier at the crag early. The objective, maybe my first climbing "objective" ever, was to retro bolt Whiskey a Go-Go. Well, it was Dave's objective and he brought me along for the ride.

That day Whiskey went from having a pin and two bolts with a rating of 5.12c R, to the more modern incarnation we enjoy now. Looking back that was a very pivotal moment in my young life. For 20 years now I have been chasing one new route to the next and have cherished every adventure that the obsession has brought my way. Here's to a classic pitch as it moves into its third decade of kicking ass! May 27, 2011
Just to get in the groove of being somewhat of a whistle pig,.. back in the early/mid 1990's I was up at Necedah with Barney Schaeffer and the late Josh Hanes. Barney was working on the redpoint,.. to get his psyche on,.. I ran 6 laps on lead that afternoon. Beautiful climb, well worth the arc of movement. Oct 14, 2010
randy baum
Minneapolis, MN
 
randy baum   Minneapolis, MN
 
has anyone else led this in the style of mr. groth (2 bolts, the rest gear)? and which two bolts did he use? the upper bolts, i assume, correct? i want to redpoint it in that style this fall. Aug 16, 2010
Remo
Madison, WI
 
Remo   Madison, WI
 
Will, this line was originally lead with two bolts and natural pro. As Steve said, it was retro bolted so more would get on it. Dave was a hard man and lead a lot of scary shit (props Dave), but I would never lead this thing without the bolts. Apr 29, 2009
TravisMelin
Portland, OR, Roanoke, VA L
  5.13a
TravisMelin   Portland, OR, Roanoke, VA L
  5.13a
Classic case of non-resident passing judgement on a route they have never done. You really gotta understand the history, type of rock , etc before you can start making comments like this. Apr 28, 2009
Jonathan Williams
Minneapolis
  5.13a
Jonathan Williams   Minneapolis
  5.13a
You are welcome to skip the bolts if you want. Apr 28, 2009
Will, it was retro fitted by the FA'ist, if i'm remembering correctly, because he wanted more people to get on it and thought it'd be a waste otherwise. Calm down. Apr 28, 2009
Will S
Joshua Tree
Will S   Joshua Tree
"Whiskey was originally led on dicey natural protection, but has since been retro-bolted for the benefit of all. "

Lame. Apr 28, 2009
Jay Knower
Campton, NH
 
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
 
Good. I know what you mean about the lighting. It's all of those pesky trees near there. Still, I'm sure we'd all love to see your photos Travis. May 5, 2008
TravisMelin
Portland, OR, Roanoke, VA L
  5.13a
TravisMelin   Portland, OR, Roanoke, VA L
  5.13a
Haha! noo nothing like that. The photos just dont do the route justice. Ive got a bunch of pics on it myself from years ago, and I was there yesterday taking some too. But no matter how you shoot, the light is always goofy, as is the angle... May 5, 2008
Jay Knower
Campton, NH
 
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
 
Are you dissin my photos Travis? May 5, 2008
TravisMelin
Portland, OR, Roanoke, VA L
  5.13a
TravisMelin   Portland, OR, Roanoke, VA L
  5.13a
Too bad that no matter how you shoot pics of this route they just never come out looking very inspiring May 5, 2008
Brian Runnells
  5.13a
Brian Runnells  
  5.13a
I agree Jay, didn't mean to be overly flip about the grade. It truly is one of the best routes anywhere, especially at 13a and of course especially being in WI. There probably isn't a comparable route at the Wild Iris, that is for sure.

Phlogiston is a pretty apt comparison for the DL comparison to Whiskey...unleadable...contrived... Mar 19, 2007
Jay Knower
Campton, NH
 
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
 
12d at the Lake? If it was at the Lake, it would be vertical, painfully thin, and neglected (ala Phlogiston). Good thing it's not at the Lake.

I think Whiskey would rank as a classic at the grade at any area in the U.S. and is much better than routes of the same grade in places like Rifle, Wild Iris, etc. Mar 2, 2007
Brian Runnells
  5.13a
Brian Runnells  
  5.13a
Don't remember seeing any ticks there at the beginning of October.

As for the route, one of the best ever! .12d at the lake ;) Feb 8, 2007
Scott Hahn  
 
Hands down one of the best routes I have ever done. May 23, 2006