Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: JJ Schlick 2006
Page Views: 3,852 total · 26/month
Shared By: JJ Schlick on Sep 10, 2006
Admins: Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, chris tregge

You & This Route


45 Opinions

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Description

A long trad route with good exposure once you break the tree line.

Start up a steep crack on the north part of the main wall. Once the crack ends head right to a water runnel and a #1 cammalot placement. Move straight up to the bolt and climb the left side of the blunt arete for four bolts (crux just after the second bolt). At the last bolt turn the corner to the right side and climb steep jugs and thin cracks to the top. The top is kind of hollow, though the gear looks bomber.

Location

East side, roughly 80 feet past "Air"

Protection

A set of medium to large wires, and a single rack of cams from #.4 to #1, plus some long runners to cut down on rope drag. Two bolts with chains at top. Best to belay from the top and then rap the route.
Corey Morris
Landstuhl, Germany
  5.10-
Corey Morris   Landstuhl, Germany
  5.10-
Great route JJ. May 26, 2009
John W. Knoernschild
Wisconsin
  5.10-
John W. Knoernschild   Wisconsin
  5.10-
Amazing Route! If you haven't been on this route, you're missing out on one of Wisconsin's finest and most exposed! Jun 13, 2009
Paul Campbell
Waukesha, WI
  5.10-
Paul Campbell   Waukesha, WI
  5.10-
I thought this route was a lot of fun. A bit overhanging through the bolted and top sections, great exposure. The only problem with the climb is the dirty and awkward first 10 feet. The rest is great! Definitely recommended. Jun 15, 2009
Tradiban
  5.9
Tradiban  
  5.9
Classic, albeit probably more like 5.9. Cool holds up top! Apr 22, 2010
John W. Knoernschild
Wisconsin
  5.10-
John W. Knoernschild   Wisconsin
  5.10-
The top section was my favorite! Your just to strong now to notice any easy 5.10 ;) Apr 23, 2010
Andy Hansen
Longmont, CO
  5.9
Andy Hansen   Longmont, CO
  5.9
I thought the first 10 feet was pretty good... good finger locks into a large sidepull take you up onto the awfully dirty/lichen covered slab. The top is certainly airy and quite fun. Great route and good gear all the way through... plus bolts. Jun 2, 2011
chris tregge
Beersconsin
  5.10a
chris tregge   Beersconsin  
  5.10a
Fantastic route JJ! Can't believe I hadn't done this until now. Apr 6, 2013
Tony Litke
La Crosse, Wisconsin
  5.9
Tony Litke   La Crosse, Wisconsin
  5.9
A little heady with the gear placement, but such a beautiful and easy climb that you might even forget to place pro. Mar 4, 2015
Joel Allen
La Crosse, WI
  5.10a
Joel Allen   La Crosse, WI
  5.10a
Wow. This route is sooooo good. This is a must do. IMO, the best gear for the last 20 feet is a #2 C4 after pulling around the corner and a #0.5 C4 protecting the chains. DO IT!

EDIT: Has anyone ever tried a direct finish? Not traversing around the corner, just going straight up to the chains above the bolted section? Aug 23, 2015