Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: First Lead Steve Sangdahl and Jack Klein ca. 1981 (trad w/ 1 pin)
Page Views: 6,663 total · 38/month
Shared By: Jay Knower on Aug 18, 2004
Admins: Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, chris tregge

You & This Route


111 Opinions

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Description

This is the main route up the center of the tower behind Y-Crack Wall.

A hard start gives way to easier climbing, angling leftward to the corner (it is harder than 5.10a to bypass the corner and continue straight up). The bolts eventually bring the climber back out on the narrowing face. Here the climbing is very special: the holds become patina-like, and the lichen stands out in technicolor splashes.

Upon completing the route, the climber is treated to one of the best summits in Wisconsin (behind Cleo's Needle, of course). From the small point of the tower, the climber can look out to the Petenwell Lake area or gaze with wonderment at the harder routes on Y-Crack wall. A rap from the two bolt anchor completes the experience.

Protection

Bolts. Maybe a #2 Camalot to protect the start.
Steve Sangdahl
eldo sprngs,co
Steve Sangdahl   eldo sprngs,co
just for historical value ,this was first led by myself and jack klein in 1981. I led it on gear and one piton(lost arrow) I don't really care that its been bolted. peace and fuk-nes. Steve Sangdahl Mar 10, 2005
James Schroeder
Sauk County, WI
  5.10a
James Schroeder   Sauk County, WI  
  5.10a
Jay-

What a perfect description, this route is mega-classic 5 out of 4 stars... Oct 1, 2006
John W. Knoernschild
Wisconsin
  5.10a
John W. Knoernschild   Wisconsin
  5.10a
I agree with James. This route is classic! It's like a giant Queen's Face (DL) and much harder. There is really no defined crux that I found on this climb. Just good 5.10 movement and a pump timer. Oct 7, 2008
randy baum
Minneapolis, MN
 
randy baum   Minneapolis, MN
 
aside from the section before the ledge, the gear is super solid. goes: #4 BD nut, #2 camalot, small nuts/small tcus to the top. Apr 13, 2009
Adam.Mohr
La Crosse / Madison
 
Adam.Mohr   La Crosse / Madison
 
The network of cracks and crevices on this route makes it a wildlife paradise. You'll find that salamanders abound here. And now I always try to look into each crack before I reach in as once I nearly poked a bat in the eye. A great route btw. Mar 13, 2011
Josh Olson
Durango, CO
  5.10a
Josh Olson   Durango, CO
  5.10a
For those of you that have led this on gear, is it PG or PG-13? Jul 14, 2011
Andy Hansen
Longmont, CO
  5.10a
Andy Hansen   Longmont, CO
  5.10a
Josh, I looked at the gear and I'd say that it's PG-13 just considering the rock quality in some spots. But, the gear is there. Jul 29, 2011
Josh Olson
Durango, CO
  5.10a
Josh Olson   Durango, CO
  5.10a
Thanks Andy, I'll have to get on it. Jul 29, 2011
Tom Lausch
Madison WI
  5.10a/b
Tom Lausch   Madison WI
  5.10a/b
Higher first bolt on a not so good hold can be mitigated with a #2 bd cam placement lower. Or a longer stick clip. Not a give me climb but worth it for the pump factor alone. Aug 18, 2013
Joel Allen
La Crosse, WI
  5.10-
Joel Allen   La Crosse, WI
  5.10-
I almost took the 30 foot ride from just below the top when I grabbed a ledge and put my hand right on a frog. Go do it! Jun 8, 2015
Austin Lynch
Madison, WI
 
Austin Lynch   Madison, WI
 
Dude, I think that frog has been freaking climbers out for years. I did the same thing a couple of weeks ago - nearly blew off the top, it startled me so badly. Frog seemed fine. Jun 8, 2015
Joel Allen
La Crosse, WI
  5.10-
Joel Allen   La Crosse, WI
  5.10-
Led this on gear today. The gear is all there but some of it is kinda sketchy because of the rock quality. There are a few placements that you could whip on all day but if you go for the gear lead I'd say its best if you're solid on this climb. Sep 12, 2015