Type: Trad, TR, 50 ft
FA: First Lead: Rich Bechler, Steve Sangdahl, and Dale Moir 1983
Page Views: 6,956 total · 40/month
Shared By: Steve Sangdahl on Mar 20, 2005
Admins: Doug Hemken, chris tregge, James Schroeder

You & This Route


29 Opinions

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Description

this great variation to y-crack(aka old and in the way)is a classic lead ,takes good gear and will pump you up.i remember rich got bamboozled into leading this right after he broke his finger in the ditch on zodiac because he thought some rookie was gonna do it before us.great picture to follow.

Protection

cams and wires

Photos

JJ Schlick
Flagstaff, AZ
 
JJ Schlick   Flagstaff, AZ  
 
A rite of passage lead for many a Wisconsin climber. One can pretty much sew the thing up, and you never really have to climb above your gear if you don't want to. Aug 16, 2006
Eddie Avallone
Lewisburg, WV
 
Eddie Avallone   Lewisburg, WV
 
If you don't want to mess around with fishing for nuts, the top protects great with a green alien, #3 Camalot and #2 Camalot. That's it. Bomber . Bottom takes .75 and two #1 Camalots. Fantastic lead. Oct 27, 2006
as the "rookie" that was going to lead it before them I was impressed by the thoughtful notes written to me in chalk when I did it a couple days later. Lesson: never tell anyone what your next project is. Dec 4, 2006
Leo Hski  
 
... and I bet the notes scrawled in chalk were simple, declarative statements! The "DLFA Proper Use of English" guide is quite clear on this matter. Mar 7, 2007
Jesus John Yaworsky get over it. You should just be lucky you did not show up the day I was discharging the .357 magnum. That would of given you something to really get all caught up in a hissy fit about. I miss the time we spent together at Glencoe. You where a real nice guy to climb with. Jan 13, 2009
randy baum
Minneapolis, MN
 
randy baum   Minneapolis, MN
 
more gear beta (because it's really needed..haha): (from the bottom), .75 BD/black metolius, #3 camalot, #3 camalot, #1 camalot (in upper/smaller pod), #2 camalot (in crack out right) or small nut (if going straight up). Apr 13, 2009
Tradiban
  5.11c
Tradiban  
  5.11c
Way harder on lead. I TR'd it easy then sacked up for the lead but soon realized the good pro was also where the good hands were. Took a few whips before I figured it out. Got even harder when the sun hit it! Couple of finger torquer moves as well. Enjoy! Apr 23, 2010
Andy Hansen
Longmont, CO
  5.11c
Andy Hansen   Longmont, CO
  5.11c
I agree with you "Trad Ninja" that the pro is where your hands need to be but after coming out of the crotch a #2 Camalot sits nicely above a good handjam, then pull some moves off a matching sloper hold into a good hold- skip the cam placement there and pull up a on a few more crimps, slot a nut and take it to the top. This is a fantastic route and is probably best done in cooler temps. Sep 6, 2011