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Routes in Hell Wall (aka Quarry Wall)

Blind luck S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Blindsided S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Dick and Jeanie S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Glass Balls S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Glass Dihedral T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Green Lantern, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Hecks Arete T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
John's Dihedral T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Kevin's Dihedral T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mercy F**k S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
One Hit Wonder S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Self Mutilation S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Spider Chimney T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Unknown, see below T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unsorted Routes:

Description

The Quarry Wall is highest point of the Necedah backbone. Because of it's height it is easily seen from the road and offers excellent views. Like the Y-Crack Wall, the Quarry Wall faces West.

Most of the climbing is found on the right side of the wall, with bolted lines in the 5.10-5.12 range. This part of the wall features perfect stone and blocky, intimidating, roofs. The slabbier and taller left side receives a bit less attention, but some good and deceptively hard bolted and gear climbs breach the wall.

All in all, the Quarry Wall is a perfect supplement to the more popular Y-Crack area.

Getting There

Follow the descriptions to the Y-Crack wall, then continue along the fin of rock. When faced with the decision to go up or down, choose the higher option, as the right side of the Quarry wall starts off a ledge quite high above the road.

To access the left wall, scramble down from the raised ledge (4th class).

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Classic Climbing Routes at Hell Wall (aka Quarry Wall)

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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The leftmost slab route on the hell wall is, in my opinion, a little top heavy on the grade. My friends and I know this route at the "One hit wonder" because the only move in the route that deserves a grade even close to 5.11 is the crux at the bottom. Because of this, I would give this route 5.10d at the most. The right-side slab route has a more sustained difficulty and should have a higher rating, even though none of the moves are as hard as the first move on "one hit".Peace, love, and 5.13's for everyone! Nov 7, 2005
Burt Lindquist
Madison, WI
Burt Lindquist   Madison, WI  
To Mike:

The route on the right is 5.12ish if you stay directly on the bolt line at the start (first three bolts I think) and then follow the arete above along the bolts (natural line). You can make the line easier though if you climb the lower part of the route staying to the right of the bolt line along the natural weaknesses (clipping the bolts on you left by reaching over) and then getting a rest on the lower angled part of the lower arete before launching up onto to the upper arete. The route is maybe 5.10c this way (maybe slightly harder).

The route on the right is a nice 5.11a (maybe harder?? 5.11 b or c). Take a few smaller flexcams or Tricams with so you can protect the crux of the climb in the obvious horizontal. This is a mixed pro route although you only get natural gear in the one horizontal.

I don't know the names of either of these routes but for Wisconny climbing - they are pretty good.

Burt

(ADMIN NOTE: This comment moved from the main area page and was a response to a query by mike suarez - it's very similar in nature to Burt's other answer to the same question shown above.) Sep 23, 2005
Burt Lindquist
Madison, WI
Burt Lindquist   Madison, WI  
To Chris again:

Oh ya -- the bolted routes on the north end. Good routes too. Left one is hard 5.11 (maybe 5.11 b or c). Take a couple of small Tri-cams or Flex Cams to get good pro in the obvious horizontal for the crux move above. The holds are small but positive at the crux. It is hard to leave the security of the horizontal to make the crux moves above.The climb remains sustained above the bolt above the crux too but tops out pretty quickly afterwards. The right route is 5.12ish if you stay right on the bolt line and maybe mid to hard 5.10ish if you stay to the right of the bolt line down below (firt three bolts if I remeber right).I don't know the names of these two fine routes either so alot of help I am on that one! I would like to know the names myself! Jun 1, 2005
Burt Lindquist
Madison, WI
Burt Lindquist   Madison, WI  
Hey Chris:

You are about right for the grade on the far left bolted slab/sort of detached flake route (at top). I believe the rating is around mid 5.11. It is a burly move down low if I remember right. Don't know the name of this route either but would like to know some day???? The route that is next to the right is a good one too and I believe that it has been recently "updated" with a extra bolt added down low to protect the previously somewhat run out nature of the starting moves. This is a very nice steep and edgy route with tough moves near the top. I remember pulling a cool undercling move and making a desperate throw for a semi-jug to finish it off. Somewhere in the hard 5.10 range. Don't know the name of this one either and would like to. Jun 1, 2005
Chris Hirsch
Rapid City, SD
Chris Hirsch   Rapid City, SD
The few slab climbs to the left of Self Mutilation, does anybody know the names or ratings of them? I tried the far left slab, it felt like an 11c.

And what about those isolated bolt lines the north side of the bluff? May 31, 2005

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