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Routes in Above Anthrax

Climb with a View T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Late Night Chalk Show S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Ponyboy S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Pretty Piece of Flesh S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Riverboat Gambler S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Solo Crack T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Who is Bernd Arnold? S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Steve Tucker
Page Views: 2,405 total, 27/month
Shared By: Tradiban on Jul 1, 2010
Admins: Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

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Description

Slab to a cool roof pull.

Currently a few bolts lead to the corner under the roof. There is no bolt in the roof itself making this a very dangerous lead in which if you fall you will come rocketing down onto the slab. In addition the left side of the roof to which the bolts lead to is very rotten and I'm sure parts will break if reefed on.

I TR'd the route but busted slightly right (See pics) before the last slab bolt and pulled on good fairly solid jugs over.

Location

To the right of "Pretty Piece of Flesh" is an impressive roof.

Protection

Bolts but NEEDS ONE MORE BOLT IN THE ROOF!

My suggestion for whomever bolted this is to chop the last bolt on the slab (and patch of course), move it right and put another bolt in the roof. I marked a spot I thought was good with chalk and included a pic posted here.
Apsu
Madison, WI
 
Apsu   Madison, WI
 
This is such a fun climb. If only it were longer! Sep 1, 2017
Tony Litke
La Crosse, Wisconsin
  5.10-
Tony Litke   La Crosse, Wisconsin
  5.10-
Now safely bolted and one of my fav climbs in the Midwest Nov 8, 2016
Joel Allen
La Crosse, WI
  5.10b
Joel Allen   La Crosse, WI
  5.10b
Hey Joe, there has already been a bolt added in the roof. This climb is as safe as it can possibly get, no gear needed! Make sure to extend the last bolt before the bolt on the roof with a long runner, or just skip it (which I recommend) because it literally does nothing for protection because it is so close to the bolt below it. Jul 22, 2016
Is this route still missing a bolt on the roof? Will I need to place pro? If so what size cam? Jul 21, 2016
Joel Allen
La Crosse, WI
  5.10b
Joel Allen   La Crosse, WI
  5.10b
This thing is now one of my favorite routes at Necedah! Although totally unnecessary, you have to cut feet on this for the most fun! Everyone should try this, even if 5.10 is your limit, it's bolted so well you'll think your in the gym. Go do it! Jul 17, 2016
EB
Winona
EB   Winona
I believe Steve told me that the name of this route is Riverboat Gambler. Gear in the roof section is key. Oct 12, 2011
the start of the roof has a really positive shelf section, a little bit of confidence (or ignorance) goes a long way. Aug 19, 2010
Tradiban  
 
Will Steve take another look? Albeit not the intended line, where I marked a spot would take a glue in nicely. Jul 4, 2010
Steve bolted this. We've both climbed it, and agree that it's 5.10R. Can't put in another bolt - rock is too soft. So I placed a cam with a long sling and then just hoped that nothing would break. Jul 3, 2010
Chris treggE
Madison, WI
Chris treggE   Madison, WI  
Yes, this is Steve's route. I emailed him to see if he would like to comment or update anything. Jul 2, 2010
Paul Campbell
Waukesha, WI
Paul Campbell   Waukesha, WI
Only thing I can think of is the comment by Khengen on this page: mountainproject.com/v/wisco… Where he talks about Steve Tucker bolting a new roof. Jul 2, 2010
Tradiban  
 
Looked like new bolts? Anyone care to claim this one? Jul 1, 2010