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Routes in Y-Crack Wall

A Dish to Pass S,TR 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Blinded by Lust S,TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Dakota Farms Cheese S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Death of A Salesman T,TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Eagle Rare T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Early Times S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Easy Tower Route T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Green Zipper T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Little Rebel Crack AKA Ezra Brooks T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Little pine T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Rebel Yell T,TR 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Straight No Chaser T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Ten High T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Tower Route S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
West Face of Tower T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Whiskey Chimney (aka Pigeon Crack) T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Whiskey a Go-Go S,TR 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Y-Crack (aka Old and in the Way) T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Elevation: 1,021 ft
GPS: 44.044, -90.02 Google Map · Climbing Map
Shared By: Jay Knower on Oct 31, 2004 with updates
Admins: Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE
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Description

This is the crown jewel of Necedah. A Y-shaped crack splits the center of the wall (hence the name) and a few bolted routes exist on either side of the crack. The wall is completely sheer and overhangs at about 20 degrees. Hands down, there is no better cliff for hard climbing in south-central Wisconsin.

To access the top, scramble up the north toe of the formation (fourth class), and around to the east side, also fourth class.

It's worth noting that the routes between "A Dish to Pass" and "Death of a Salesman" are on The Tower.

Getting There

Walking up from the parking area, you will see a prominet tower and a steep cliff. This cliff is the Y-Crack Wall. You can't miss it.

18 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Y-Crack Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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The anchors on Blinded by Lust are east to access from the top and make an easy rappel. There's also a 4th class, walk-off at the north end. The area doesn't need anchors for the trad climbs. Aug 18, 2013
It's not a sport area. Sep 20, 2012
Mike Minehart
Waupaca, WI
Mike Minehart   Waupaca, WI
If its a sport area, there should be anchors. Sep 19, 2012
Without fear of getting into that argument there's no need for additional bolted anchors because is most cases there's ample gear to be had to set a TR and access is easy to the top. In addition building your own anchor is probably a very good skill for people to have and I've witnessed too many gym gumbies get into trouble because they assume everything will be bolted. Sport routes probably deserve an anchor but trad routes should stay trad.

Specifically what sport climbs do you think need anchors? Aug 15, 2011
Ryan Justen
St. Paul, MN
Ryan Justen   St. Paul, MN
This is a very fun wall to climb with lots of fun routes. My only complaint is there are not many anchors. With bolts everywhere I don't see the harm in having 2-bolt anchors at the top of trad routes. Even some sport routes do not have anchors... There a few anchors that are shared by up to 5 routes...I don't think that works too well on high traffic days. Aug 14, 2011
That would be really interesting to know. I haven't looked at it too much but does it seem like the line links at all? Mar 19, 2007
JJ Schlick
Flagstaff, AZ
JJ Schlick   Flagstaff, AZ  
Has anyone out there tried link A Dish to Pass into Death of a Salesman? Thought I would ask... Oct 25, 2006

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