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Routes in Y-Crack Wall

A Dish to Pass S,TR 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Blinded by Lust S,TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Dakota Farms Cheese S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Death of A Salesman T,TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Eagle Rare T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Early Times S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Easy Tower Route T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Green Zipper T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Little Rebel Crack AKA Ezra Brooks T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Little pine T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Rebel Yell T,TR 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Straight No Chaser T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Ten High T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Tower Route S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
West Face of Tower T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Whiskey Chimney (aka Pigeon Crack) T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Whiskey a Go-Go S,TR 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Y-Crack (aka Old and in the Way) T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Trad, TR, 50 ft
FA: First TR - Pete Cleveland or Ralph Schimdt (late 70's). First Lead - Steve Sangdahl and Rob Lemon (1981)
Page Views: 7,243 total, 46/month
Shared By: Steve Sangdahl on Nov 23, 2004
Admins: Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

You & This Route


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Description

If you were handed the keys to a Ferrari 488 gtb ( 660 hp and 0- 60 in 3 seconds) and told "Go ahead , wail on it !" What would you do? Wail on it of course. Sending this climb is akin to wailing on that Ferrari. Up the straights and thru the curves. Super car super climb. Channel yer inner Mario. To summarize....3 words to describe this climb , " Line of kill ". 2 words , " obvious crack " . 1 word....." Ferrari" .
On a side note: nothing unusual about the First lead ,Lemon was day dreaming about drinking wine with the Dali Lama which provided the extra incentive for me not to fall. At least he was good for that.
Also nothing special about the route name, just a classic blue grass song we listened to way too much. Probably one of the best climbs in Wisconsin.

Protection

Protects so well it's ridiculous! The only hazards are the occasional wasps and the pump factor near the finish line. Bring a standard rack and whatever else you feel like dragging up there ....it's all training youth. Money in the bank.
For the approach : Hike to base, identify obvious crack( line o kill) that arches left, put your hands up then your feet up , repeat. Place pro as needed. Accelerate out of curve!
Steve Sangdahl
eldo sprngs,co
Steve Sangdahl   eldo sprngs,co
It should be noted for historical purposes only that as I posted above on July 29,2006 the Y-crack aka Old and in the Way was first led in 1981 by myself and Rob Lemon rip . Not 1983 as the new guide book says. When we first visited this crag in 1981 this climb stood out as" the line of kill " and was one of the first climbs I set my sights on. Had to be sent asap. Could the administrators post the date in the fa info above ? New guide book is awesome by the way. Thanks. Oct 8, 2016
Ryan Justen
St. Paul, MN
Ryan Justen   St. Paul, MN
At 1st I wondered why everyone placed so much gear on this... Then I climbed it. It's VERY sustained. I don't think you can pack much more 5.10c in a climb. I'm excited to give it another go. Aug 13, 2011
Ryan Justen
St. Paul, MN
Ryan Justen   St. Paul, MN
What exactly should be racked for this?
1-set of stoppers?
Singles/doubles cams? to BD #2 (hands)?
Thanks~ Jul 30, 2011
Ryan Strong
Golden, CO
  5.10c
Ryan Strong   Golden, CO
  5.10c
a must do. May 9, 2011
J.Flunker
  5.10c
J.Flunker  
  5.10c
No harder than 10c...
When compared to: "Outer Limits" (10c):Valley; "Lunatic Fringe" (10c):Valley; "Reed's Pinnacle Direct" (10a):Valley; 5.10 pitches on the "Rostrum":Valley; "Illusion Dweller" (10b):J-tree; "Clean and Jerk" (10c):J-tree; "O'kellys Crack" (10d/11a):J-tree; "Split Pillar" pitch (10b) on the "Grand Wall":Squamish. etc...etc...etc...
These are part of the frame of reference for grading 5.10 crack climbs. (Note: All of the above routes are classic and should be climbed at some point in your life)
Overall: Super-fun-classic-route. Nov 17, 2010
John W. Knoernschild
Wisconsin
  5.10d
John W. Knoernschild   Wisconsin
  5.10d
I am wondering the same thing Jay. I sent Steve a message asking him what his reasoning is.

update: Steve said he must have been tired, took the R rating away and agreed it was a very protectable lead. Jun 14, 2009
Steve70070
Tomah, Wi
  5.10d
Steve70070   Tomah, Wi
  5.10d
Very awesome route but yes I was there last fall and the hornets were lovin that rock more than me. Gotta love the mosquito heaven on the way up to the rock! Bring bug spray...but the bugs back off when you get to the cliffs and the breeze is blowin. Apr 26, 2009
NiClips
Madison, WI
NiClips   Madison, WI
Just got on this for the first time last Sunday. WATCH OUT! The hornets are C.R.A.Z.Y. this time of year. They warm themselves on the sunny faces during midday. Anyway; awesome route, and way more over-hanging than I had thought looking up from the ground. Oct 3, 2006
Steve Sangdahl
eldo sprngs,co
Steve Sangdahl   eldo sprngs,co
this was first top-roped in the late 70's by either pete cleveland or ralph schimdt...first lead in 1981 by steve s. and rob lemon. this is an awesome route and one of the best in the midwest..period. Jul 29, 2006
Nick Adams
Delafield, WI
Nick Adams   Delafield, WI
What's up guys? Just wanted to throw in my bit.

Now, it's important for anyone reading this post to understand that my hardest lead is 5.10b - Watermarks Direct - with a fall, and I've never been to Necedah.

My point is that ratings in WI, no matter where in WI, tend to be stiff. Just plain stiff.

Sometimes 5.8s or 5.9s feel like 11's, depending on the style or moment or attitude. But wouldn't you agree that it is SO SWEET when you go somewhere outside WI - crag or BIG WALL - and get on something that you believe, based on your WI experience, to be at your limit, yet it feels familiar?

That is nice!!

I like the sand-bag-ness of WI because it allows you to go anywhere - and I mean anywhere - and KNOW the level at which you can climb.

That's the beauty of calling a climb like Upper D 5.9(not even +), where I've witnessed "5.10 leaders" hang on gear only 2/3 of the way up.

I STRIVE every day to get better so I can feel cruiser on 5.9 in WI. V3s and V4s rock my world - in WI. In other places, these levels are simple.

Thanks for maintaining this great site - and for letting me rant.

Cheers to stiff ratings and relativity,

Nick Sep 1, 2005
Jay Knower
Campton, NH
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
Steve,I think on lead, with the pump factor, this route is definitely harder than .10c. Maybe on TR, when you don't have to place any pro, the .10c rating is accurate.

Its true, I may be weak, but I know a 5.11 when I see one. Mar 11, 2005
Steve Sangdahl
eldo sprngs,co
Steve Sangdahl   eldo sprngs,co
yeah jay,i agree.this always felt harder than 5.10c,perhaps 5.10d/5.11a is more accurate.but then again maybe we are just weak.peace and fuk-nes Mar 10, 2005
Jay Knower
Campton, NH
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
aka "Old and in the Way". Do others think the 5.10c rating is accurate? I have always thought it felt more like 5.10d/11a, but maybe that's just me. Mar 6, 2005
Steve Sangdahl
eldo sprngs,co
Steve Sangdahl   eldo sprngs,co
first t.r. unknown ,first lead:steve sangdahl and rob lemon Nov 23, 2004