Y-Crack (aka Old and in the Way)
Avg: 3.8 from 60 votes
|Type:||Trad, TR, 50 ft|
|FA:||First TR - Pete Cleveland or Ralph Schimdt (late 70's). First Lead - Steve Sangdahl and Rob Lemon (1981)|
|Page Views:||7,344 total · 46/month|
|Shared By:||Steve Sangdahl on Nov 23, 2004|
|Admins:||Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE|
DescriptionIf you were handed the keys to a Ferrari 488 gtb ( 660 hp and 0- 60 in 3 seconds) and told "Go ahead , wail on it !" What would you do? Wail on it of course. Sending this climb is akin to wailing on that Ferrari. Up the straights and thru the curves. Super car super climb. Channel yer inner Mario. To summarize....3 words to describe this climb , " Line of kill ". 2 words , " obvious crack " . 1 word....." Ferrari" .
On a side note: nothing unusual about the First lead ,Lemon was day dreaming about drinking wine with the Dali Lama which provided the extra incentive for me not to fall. At least he was good for that.
Also nothing special about the route name, just a classic blue grass song we listened to way too much. Probably one of the best climbs in Wisconsin.
ProtectionProtects so well it's ridiculous! The only hazards are the occasional wasps and the pump factor near the finish line. Bring a standard rack and whatever else you feel like dragging up there ....it's all training youth. Money in the bank.
For the approach : Hike to base, identify obvious crack( line o kill) that arches left, put your hands up then your feet up , repeat. Place pro as needed. Accelerate out of curve!