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Y-Crack (aka Old and in the Way)
5.10d YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 21 ZA E3 5b British
Avg: 3.8 from 112
votes
Routes in 02. Y-Crack Wall
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A Dish to Pass S,TR 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Blinded by Lust S,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Dakota Farms Cheese S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Death of A Salesman T,TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Eagle Rare T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Early Times S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Easy Tower Route T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
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Ezra Brooks T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Garnish T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Green Zipper T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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I Got a Rock T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a V0 4 |
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Little guy T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Little Pine T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Pigeon Crack T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Rebel Yell T,TR 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Six to Nine T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Straight No Chaser T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Ten High T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Tower Route S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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West Face of Tower T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Whiskey a Go-Go S,TR 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Y Not S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Y-Crack (aka Old and in the Way) T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, TR, 50 ft (15 m) |
| FA: | First TR - Pete Cleveland or Ralph Schimdt (late 70's). First Lead - Steve Sangdahl and Rob Lemon (1981) |
| Page Views: | 11,693 total · 47/month |
| Shared By: | Steve Sangdahl on Nov 23, 2004 · Updates |
| Admins: | Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, chris tregge, Ben Strobel, Kyle Harding |
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Description
If you were handed the keys to a Ferrari 488 gtb ( 660 hp and 0- 60 in 3 seconds) and told "Go ahead , wail on it !" What would you do? Wail on it of course. Sending this climb is akin to wailing on that Ferrari. Up the straights and thru the curves. Super car super climb. Channel yer inner Mario. To summarize....3 words to describe this climb , " Line of kill ". 2 words , " obvious crack " . 1 word....." Ferrari" .
On a side note: nothing unusual about the First lead ,Lemon was day dreaming about drinking wine with the Dali Lama which provided the extra incentive for me not to fall. At least he was good for that.
Also nothing special about the route name, just a classic blue grass song we listened to way too much. Probably one of the best climbs in Wisconsin.
On a side note: nothing unusual about the First lead ,Lemon was day dreaming about drinking wine with the Dali Lama which provided the extra incentive for me not to fall. At least he was good for that.
Also nothing special about the route name, just a classic blue grass song we listened to way too much. Probably one of the best climbs in Wisconsin.
Protection
Protects so well it's ridiculous! The only hazards are the occasional wasps and the pump factor near the finish line. Bring a standard rack and whatever else you feel like dragging up there ....it's all training youth. Money in the bank.
Bolted anchor with chains at the top.
For the approach: Hike to the base, identify obvious crack (line o kill) that arches left, put your hands up then your feet up, repeat. Place pro as needed. Accelerate out of curve!
Photos
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