Against Medical Advice
Avg: 3 from 2 votes
|Type:||Trad, 500 ft, 10 pitches, Grade II|
|FA:||Maybe JS and JJ 8/19/17 but probably much earlier|
|Page Views:||272 total · 38/month|
|Shared By:||James Schroeder on Aug 20, 2017|
|Admins:||Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE|
DescriptionA south-to-north traverse of the entire Petenwell Ridgeline. This enjoyable outing makes an excellent training route for navigating alpine terrain. Climbers are forced into a variety of problem-solving situations requiring creativity (possibly even shenanigans) to negotiate. For the most part, the climbing is at a moderate grade, and, where the technical cruxes are, it can generally be well-protected. The real crux of this route is in the route-finding and risk management choices climbers will be forced to make. Variable and high-consequence terrain makes for a challenging day. A familiarity with one's risk-tolerance as well of the risk-tolerance of one's partner(s) is essential.
This is a challenging route unlike much of the climbing in the midwest and it should not be underestimated or attempted by climbers lacking the sufficient knowledge and experience to negotiate it safely.
Step-by-stepPotentially the path of least resistance. Of course this information is imperfect, incomplete, and many variations are possible. Individual competency, terrain, conditions, crowds, etc. will dictate the best path on any given day.
1. Climb User Friendly (aka Foreplay) to the summit of Coyote Tower. (5.6)
2. Rappel to col between Coyote Tower and the fin that holds Y-Crack Wall.
3. Climb Eagle Rare. (5.4)
4. Descend 3rd/4th class access to the north on the west side of the fin.
5. Climb 303 Spire (aka Canoehead Spire) via a weakness on the southeast corner. (5th)
6. Rappel from anchors on Mr Canoehead - awkward to get over the lip.
7. Climb Air to the summit of Air Spire. (5.6)
8. Descend extremely exposed 4th/5th class terrain to the col between Air Spire and Fire Spire - SCARY.
9. Climb weakness on southeast face of Fire Spire. (5th)
10. Descend exposed 4th/5th class terrain on the west side of the north end of Fire Spire.
11. Traverse knife edge passing two main gendarmes. (5th)
12. Climb southeast face and south arete of small spire. (5th)
13. Rappel into chimney/inside corner from rock bollard.
14. Climb Glass Balls. (5.8)
15. Traverse Main Massif passing the very exposed Leap of Faith Step Across. (Mostly 3rd, but a few moves of 5th)
16. Descend 3rd/4th class to a col.
17. Climb a wide crack to a tree and the south ridge of the unnamed spire with Climb with a View on it. (5th)
18. Rappel from a tree anchor.
19. Climb south-southwest corner of the next spire which is home to Late Night Chalk Show. (5th)
20. Rappel from anchors on Late Night Chalk Show - awkward to get over the lip.
21. Climb south ridge of the next spire. (5th)
22. Descend exposed 4th/5th class terrain on the west side of the spire's north end.
23. Regain ridgeline and make a long descending traverse to the northeast over varying terrain up to 5th class.
24. Rappel from anchors on Anthrax
25. Beverages and ibuprofen.