Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Y-Crack Wall

A Dish to Pass S,TR 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Blinded by Lust S,TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Dakota Farms Cheese S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Death of A Salesman T,TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Eagle Rare T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Early Times S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Easy Tower Route T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Green Zipper T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Little Rebel Crack AKA Ezra Brooks T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Little pine T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Rebel Yell T,TR 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Straight No Chaser T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Ten High T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Tower Route S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
West Face of Tower T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Whiskey Chimney (aka Pigeon Crack) T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Whiskey a Go-Go S,TR 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Y-Crack (aka Old and in the Way) T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 45 ft
FA: Rich Bechler, Schlick, Stetzer
Page Views: 3,065 total, 22/month
Shared By: JJ Schlick on Sep 10, 2006
Admins: Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

You & This Route


64 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

A surprisingly good line originally lead on gear, and a bit wandery. The retro bolted version takes on the plumb line. The route offers quality moves on good stone, and is also a good warm up for the harder lines nearby.

Some hard moves off the deck take you to some jugs and past the first two bolts. The third bolt is a horizontally reachy clip (hollow rock closer in...). Some crimps, a finger lock, and a good side pull take you up to some jugs and a mantley finish.

Location

Far left side of the Y wall.

Protection

Four bolts to a two bolt anchor.
Joel Allen
La Crosse, WI
  5.11
Joel Allen   La Crosse, WI
  5.11
This route is really short but it is a lot of fun! Feels like a boulder problem. And if you find the right position, the third bolt is easily clipped, I think it's fine where it is. Everyone should try this at least once! Jan 30, 2015
Adam J. Clark
Mill Creek, WA
  5.11a/b
Adam J. Clark   Mill Creek, WA
  5.11a/b
Loose nut on the second bolt, didn't exactly have wrenches on me at the time, so climber beware. However, great route, really didn't expect to enjoy it so much. May 1, 2013
Chris treggE
Madison, Beersconsin
  5.11-
Chris treggE   Madison, Beersconsin  
  5.11-
Would be 4 stars if the third bolt was a touch left. Really fun movement anyway. Apr 5, 2013
FYI, I saw a guy lead this on gear in the mid to late 90's. I wanna say he thought it had been climbed before him. Its probably a lot more palatable with bolts and he may have stayed more left after the pine tree. It's one of the few routes there I haven't been on. May 15, 2011
This was my first 5.11 on lead. Awesome route! It's so rewarding getting past the hard boulder problem off the ground...I grunted my way through it :) Nov 19, 2010
Andy Hansen
Longmont, Colorado
  5.11b
Andy Hansen   Longmont, Colorado
  5.11b
Hard to onsight for sure but these moves are incredible. Awesome climb. Jul 13, 2010
Tradiban
  5.11-
Tradiban  
  5.11-
Harder than it looks and technical. Will test your on sight ability. Apr 19, 2010
John W. Knoernschild
Wisconsin
  5.11a
John W. Knoernschild   Wisconsin
  5.11a
Great route! Short with very technical climbing. The sequence through this climb is superb. I took a nice whipper while trying to clip in the crux. I will get back to it soon and finish her clean. Oct 6, 2008