Type: Sport, 45 ft
FA: Rich Bechler 1980’s
Page Views: 3,393 total · 23/month
Shared By: JJ Schlick on Sep 10, 2006
Admins: Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, chris tregge

You & This Route

65 Opinions

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A surprisingly good line originally lead on gear and a bit wandery. The retro bolted version takes on the plumb line. The route offers quality moves on good stone and is also a good warm up for the harder lines nearby.

Some hard moves off the deck take you to some jugs and past the first two bolts. The third bolt is a horizontally reachy clip (hollow rock closer in...). Some crimps, a finger lock, and a good side pull take you up to some jugs and a mantley finish.

Early Times is a cheap whiskey and a subtle salute to the DLFA and the bravado of Rich who would lead anything back in the day whether the gear was there or not. Often with a belly full of swill. I think he’d be happy to see so many people climbing this line. And I bet it does see gear ascents every now and then.


Far left side of the Y wall.


Four bolts to a two bolt anchor.
John W. Knoernschild
John W. Knoernschild   Wisconsin
Great route! Short with very technical climbing. The sequence through this climb is superb. I took a nice whipper while trying to clip in the crux. I will get back to it soon and finish her clean. Oct 6, 2008
Harder than it looks and technical. Will test your on sight ability. Apr 19, 2010
Andy Hansen
Longmont, CO
Andy Hansen   Longmont, CO
Hard to onsight for sure but these moves are incredible. Awesome climb. Jul 13, 2010
This was my first 5.11 on lead. Awesome route! It's so rewarding getting past the hard boulder problem off the ground...I grunted my way through it :) Nov 19, 2010
FYI, I saw a guy lead this on gear in the mid to late 90's. I wanna say he thought it had been climbed before him. Its probably a lot more palatable with bolts and he may have stayed more left after the pine tree. It's one of the few routes there I haven't been on. May 15, 2011
chris tregge
chris tregge   Beersconsin  
Would be 4 stars if the third bolt was a touch left. Really fun movement anyway. Apr 5, 2013
Adam J. Clark
Mill Creek, WA
Adam J. Clark   Mill Creek, WA
Loose nut on the second bolt, didn't exactly have wrenches on me at the time, so climber beware. However, great route, really didn't expect to enjoy it so much. May 1, 2013
Joel Allen
La Crosse, WI
Joel Allen   La Crosse, WI
This route is really short but it is a lot of fun! Feels like a boulder problem. And if you find the right position, the third bolt is easily clipped, I think it's fine where it is. Everyone should try this at least once! Jan 30, 2015
JJ Schlick
Flagstaff, AZ
JJ Schlick   Flagstaff, AZ  
Pretty sure we equipped this with glue-in threaded rod. If the hangers keep spinning, throw some lock nuts on them. Jun 18, 2018