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Routes in Y-Crack Wall

A Dish to Pass S,TR 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Blinded by Lust S,TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Dakota Farms Cheese S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Death of A Salesman T,TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Eagle Rare T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Early Times S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Easy Tower Route T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Green Zipper T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Little Rebel Crack AKA Ezra Brooks T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Little pine T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Rebel Yell T,TR 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Straight No Chaser T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Ten High T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Tower Route S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
West Face of Tower T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Whiskey Chimney (aka Pigeon Crack) T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Whiskey a Go-Go S,TR 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Y-Crack (aka Old and in the Way) T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Trad, TR, 60 ft
FA: Rich Bechler and Dale Moir
Page Views: 1,203 total, 9/month
Shared By: JJ Schlick on Sep 10, 2006
Admins: Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

You & This Route


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Description

This is second trad line left of Whiskey. Start out at parallel seam/cracks on the right side. Do some strenous moves to get to small hand slot 12' up or so (#.75). Continue up into the stem box section climbing on the right. At the ledge find some gear, and then climb off and just slightly to the left using an undercling to reach for bigger holds.

Location

Far left side of the Y wall.

Protection

Set of nuts, and a set of cams. There are no fixed anchors on top of anything besides Whiskey on this wall.

Photos

Dmitriy Litvak
Pacifica, CA
Dmitriy Litvak   Pacifica, CA
I attempted to climb a variation of this route. Instead of going right after the initial double crack section, I rejoined "Early Times" at the bolts. From the ledge, there goes an obvious right slanting crack.

More than anything, the crack is committing at the last move as you would be climbing 5.10 above the ET ledge with no gear to keep you from bouncing off it (which I did a little bit).

Is this an established variation?
I pulled off a huge flake on the head wall. So, it does not get climbed often. I'd like to put it in the guidebook here.
And a name would be nice :)

Rich told me that this "does not get done frequently". The top move is committing and high quality though. I copped out on lead and TR'ed it. Apr 12, 2010
1st ascent rich bechler and dale moir. Named after the liquid we consumed on the middle ledge. This was the 1st route we did after finding the crag way back in the day.We started exploring from the end opposite of the y crack wall and almost crapped are pants after getting to the crown jewel of the y crack wall!Also we did a route just to the right of Ten High called Blinded by lust.Which is 5.11+ and named after a certain redheaded girl that Steve,Andy,myself,the US Navy and countless others where dating at the sametime.On my 1st attempt I ripped 2 pins and hit the ground.Thankfully the only clear spot on the ground and then bouncing up and backflipping over pigs in space who was acting as a human bouldering pad.I finally succeeded on the route and the redhead just sucked seed. Note to Steve thanks for not killing me that summer and staying friends! Aug 14, 2008