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Routes in Y-Crack Wall

A Dish to Pass S,TR 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Blinded by Lust S,TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Dakota Farms Cheese S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Death of A Salesman T,TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Eagle Rare T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Early Times S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Easy Tower Route T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Green Zipper T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Little Rebel Crack AKA Ezra Brooks T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Little pine T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Rebel Yell T,TR 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Straight No Chaser T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Ten High T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Tower Route S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
West Face of Tower T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Whiskey Chimney (aka Pigeon Crack) T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Whiskey a Go-Go S,TR 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Y-Crack (aka Old and in the Way) T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Brent Kertzman and Burt Lindquist
Page Views: 539 total, 6/month
Shared By: Burt Lindquist on Jun 11, 2010
Admins: Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

You & This Route


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Description

Brent and I put this up at the same time we put in Dakota Farms Cheese. It was later removed by somebody and that was not a problem for me. The route was a bit ill concieved (can barely be led on gear I think) and a crucial hold broke up at the crux (above the top bolt position) and kind of rendered the whole thing dumb. We called it "Black Toe" and it was around mid to hard 5.10. Somebody didn't like the route and cut the studs. I have been meaning to still mix a little rock dust with epoxy and cover those stud spots.

The route more or less stays right of the corner now then drifts a bit further right at the top and climbs through the little flap right of those old bolt locations. Originally we had it going straight through the bolts but hold broke and really it was a contrived line at that. I have led this thing on gear since myself and more or less understood the folly...

Location

On south face of the detached tower left of Y-Crack. Starts just right of "Dakota Farms Cheese".

Protection

Trad. Chopped bolts.

Photos

Burt Lindquist
Madison, WI
Burt Lindquist   Madison, WI  
If you step in a bit from the right you can get small stuff in to protect the start. Its small and in SS, you get the picture I am sure. Sep 21, 2010
Never did this one actually. The bottom looked unprotected, not that that has ever stopped me. Next time... Sep 20, 2010
Burt Lindquist
Madison, WI
Burt Lindquist   Madison, WI  
Brent and I put this up at the same time we put in Dakota Farms Cheese. It was later removed by somebody and that was not a problem for me. The route was a bit ill concieved (can barely be led on gear I think) and a crucial hold broke up at the crux (above the top bolt position) and kind of rendered the whole thing dumb. We called it "Black Toe" and it was around mid to hard 5.10. Somebody didn't like the route and cut the studs. I have been meaning to still mix a little rock dust with epoxy and cover those stud spots.

The route more or less stays right of the corner now then drifts a bit further right at the top and climbs through the little flap right of those old bolt locations. Originally we had it going straight through the bolts but hold broke and really it was a contrived line at that. I have led this thing on gear since myself and more or less understood the folly...

Did you lead this ground up on gear too Nick? I am wondering if you veered right at the top like I did. The original bolt line at the top has no real gear placements.... you gotta move right to get them?
Your new route name sounds great... Sep 20, 2010