Blinded by Lust
Avg: 1.5 from 4 votes
Routes in Y-Crack Wall
|A Dish to Pass S,TR 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b|
|Blinded by Lust S,TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a|
|Dakota Farms Cheese S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Death of A Salesman T,TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b|
|Eagle Rare T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c|
|Early Times S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|Easy Tower Route T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a|
|Green Zipper T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Little Rebel Crack AKA Ezra Brooks T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Little pine T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|Rebel Yell T,TR 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a|
|Straight No Chaser T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a|
|Ten High T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b|
|Tower Route S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|West Face of Tower T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13|
|Whiskey Chimney (aka Pigeon Crack) T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Whiskey a Go-Go S,TR 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c|
|Y-Crack (aka Old and in the Way) T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Type:||Sport, TR, 70 ft|
|Page Views:||2,977 total, 34/month|
|Shared By:||computerskillclimbing. on Oct 5, 2010|
|Admins:||Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE|
DescriptionThis route, originally put up on natural gear by Rich Bechler (must have had massive cantaloupes), is a lesson sandbagging. Since the route has been aggressively labeled a "squeeze job" (fun on a friday night?), and it lacks discernable natural placements at the crux, it was long forgotten and was subsequently covered in bird sh*t, lichen, and broken rock.
Recently rediscovered, and bolted, it took some "serious" Mountain Project community involvement to figure out the route's roots. Many holds were broken in the process of cleaning the route - the instability of the original rock further confirms that Rich was more of a man than all of us internet types put together. The crux sequences now rely on smaller, albeit trustworthy holds. Expect a large fall at the crux, and (if you're sane and choose to clip the bolts) hang a long draw from the fourth bolt. By WI standards, some may still refuse to give this anything harder than 5.6+++, but the rest of the Nation would probably put it somewhere in the 12+ range.
For credit, Nathan Nelson managed to put together the second-FA/whatever you want to call it now. A solid effort to bolt, clean, and send. Props to both Rich and Nathan.
LocationFor all the haters who want to call us "squeeze jobbers" - this route sits between a bird sh*t encrusted chimney (enjoy hantavirus) and a chossy, 4th class slab. So yes, there are "routes" in close proximity. No, they're not all worthwhile. Figure it out for yourself.
First bolted line left of Whiskey.