All Locations > Wisconsin > Central > Necedah (Petenw… > 02. Y-Crack Wall

Blinded by Lust

Name: Blinded by Lust
Rating: 1.7

5.12a YDS 7a+ French 25 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British

Routes in 02. Y-Crack Wall

L › R R › L A › Z

	A Dish to Pass S,TR 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
	Blinded by Lust S,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Dakota Farms Cheese S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Death of A Salesman T,TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Eagle Rare T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
	Early Times S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Easy Tower Route T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
	Ezra Brooks T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Garnish T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Green Zipper T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
	I Got a Rock T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a V0 4
	Little guy T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Little Pine T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Pigeon Crack T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Rebel Yell T,TR 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Six to Nine T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
	Straight No Chaser T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Ten High T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Tower Route S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	West Face of Tower T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
	Whiskey a Go-Go S,TR 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
	Y Not S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
	Y-Crack (aka Old and in the Way) T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

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Type:	Sport, TR, 70 ft (21 m)
GPS:	44.0442, -90.01954
FA:	Rich Bechler
Page Views:	4,308 total · 23/month
Shared By:	computerskillclimbing. on Oct 5, 2010 · Updates
Admins:	Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, chris tregge, Ben Strobel, Kyle Harding Page Updates (admin only)

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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Description

Originally a top route climb put up by Rich Bechler and "head pointed" in the mid 1980's. Nathan Nelson claimed the second ascent while bolting the route.

With an unclear history, the route was bolted as a sport line in 2010. It's cryptic as it moves right to left, climbing the left corner of the bolted face.

Stick clipping and pre-placed draws are not a bad idea due to the bolt placements. The upper route climbs well with a top anchor.

Location

The bolted line just to left of Whiskey Chimney. The bottom can be climbed right to left, gaining the arete or climbed from the "Ten High" start more directly. It climbs the left hand corner of the feature (bolts to the climbers right). It avoids using the dihedral until you hit the ledge.

Protection

7 bolts (glue ins) tp chains. The fourth bolt is almost invisible from the ground- clip this with an extendable draw - 18 or 24" to avoid heinous rope drag. The loose blocks above the fourth bolt are now stable - we sealed the back of them with some concrete.