Avg: 1.8 from 9 votes
|Type:||Sport, TR, 70 ft (21 m)|
|Page Views:||3,607 total · 28/month|
|Shared By:||computerskillclimbing. on Oct 5, 2010|
|Admins:||James Schroeder, chris tregge, Doug Hemken|
This route, originally put up on natural gear by Rich Bechler, is a lesson in sandbagging. Since the route has been aggressively labeled a "squeeze job" and it lacks discernable natural placements at the crux, it was long forgotten and was subsequently covered in bird sh*t, lichen, and broken rock.
Recently rediscovered and bolted, it took some community involvement to figure out the route's roots. Many holds were broken in the process of cleaning the route - the instability of the original rock further confirms that Rich was more of a man than all of us internet types put together. The crux sequences now rely on smaller, albeit trustworthy holds.
Expect a large fall at the crux, and (if you're sane and choose to clip the bolts) hang a long draw from the fourth bolt. By WI standards, some may still refuse to give this anything harder than 5.6+++, but the rest of the Nation would probably put it somewhere in the 12+ range.
For credit, Nathan Nelson managed to put together the second-FA/whatever you want to call it now. A solid effort to bolt, clean, and send. Props to both Rich and Nathan.
This route sits between a bird sh*t encrusted chimney and a chossy, 4th class slab.
First bolted line left of Whiskey.