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Routes in Y-Crack Wall

A Dish to Pass S,TR 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Blinded by Lust S,TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Dakota Farms Cheese S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Death of A Salesman T,TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Eagle Rare T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Early Times S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Easy Tower Route T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Ezra Brooks T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Green Zipper T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Little pine T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Pigeon Crack T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Rebel Yell T,TR 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Straight No Chaser T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Ten High T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Tower Route S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
West Face of Tower T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Whiskey a Go-Go S,TR 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Y-Crack (aka Old and in the Way) T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
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Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Brent Kertzman
Page Views: 3,209 total · 19/month
Shared By: Jay Knower on Jul 31, 2004
Admins: Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

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Description

The other bolted route on the main tower, this line ascends the steep arete to the right of the more classic 5.10 Tower Route.

Tenuous moves lead up to the second bolt. Here, the climbing eases in difficulty but offers a nice view up the exposed arete. End at the chain belay/rappel anchors at the top of the tower.

Protection

bolts

Photos

Burton Lindquist
Madison, WI
  5.11a
Burton Lindquist   Madison, WI  
  5.11a
This route was named "Dakota Cheeze Factory" by the climber who bolted and climbed it (he's from Rapid City SD area) although I am sure that it was climbed previously on top rope. I used to lead up the middle of the tower (just to left of this route) on natural gear (there was a fixed pin down low that is now gone). Jun 1, 2005
Burton Lindquist
Madison, WI
  5.11a
Burton Lindquist   Madison, WI  
  5.11a
Thanks for the correction Brent. Memory faded.... I should have asked you for confirmation one last time.

Do you remember the route around the corner we did in that same time frame? My right big toe has never been the same. That route has been erased (as far as the bolts are concerned). I have not a problem with it though as I have since returned and led the route with natural gear.

I agree about a more generous quality rating for your arete route. Perhaps three stars? There are so few really good bolted sport routes in Sconny that it seems silly to dwell on it though. With not a real whole lot of actual climbing you can climb them all and this makes the thought of pick and choosing the best of the lot sort of silly.... Eeerrr! The midwest! Jun 26, 2006
Ryan Justen
St. Paul, MN
  5.11a/b
Ryan Justen   St. Paul, MN
  5.11a/b
Fantastic Climb with a tricky low crux Aug 13, 2011
Tradiban  
 
Do you start directly on the corner or use the crack to the left? Seems really hard directly up the arete to start. Nov 19, 2011
Paul Campbell
Waukesha, WI
Paul Campbell   Waukesha, WI
You mean the crack near the start of tower route? I definitely think it starts on the Arete proper. Nov 22, 2011
Joel Allen
La Crosse, WI
  5.11a
Joel Allen   La Crosse, WI
  5.11a
I'd say if you want the full value solid 11a then don't touch the crack out left at all. Super fun route, one of my favorites! Sep 12, 2015

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