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I Got a Rock
5.5 YDS 4b French 13 Ewbanks IV+ UIAA 11 ZA MS 4a British V0 YDS 4 Font
Avg: 2.5 from 2
votes
Routes in 02. Y-Crack Wall
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A Dish to Pass S,TR 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Blinded by Lust S,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Dakota Farms Cheese S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Death of A Salesman T,TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Eagle Rare T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Early Times S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Easy Tower Route T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
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Ezra Brooks T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Garnish T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Green Zipper T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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I Got a Rock T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a V0 4 |
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Little guy T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Little Pine T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Pigeon Crack T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Rebel Yell T,TR 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Six to Nine T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Straight No Chaser T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Ten High T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Tower Route S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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West Face of Tower T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Whiskey a Go-Go S,TR 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Y Not S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Y-Crack (aka Old and in the Way) T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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| Type: | Trad, Boulder, 45 ft (14 m) |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 323 total · 12/month |
| Shared By: | Raj Topiwala on Oct 30, 2022 |
| Admins: | Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, chris tregge, Ben Strobel, Kyle Harding |
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Description
A handful of delicate slab moves give way to a striking, well-protected crack with bountiful holds everywhere. Top out on the spire for full value. A short, exposed traverse to the rappel anchors finishes off the route.
(see "Notes" for more details on protection, anchors, etc)
Location
Next to the 4th class access to the top of Y-Crack Wall, there is an obvious crack that approaches the top of a small spire. Go past it to the river-facing slab around the corner. The start of the route is on the cleaned-out, right side of this slab.
Notes
- Anchors: There is no bolted anchor for this line. An anchor can be built on the back-side of the spire either by down-climbing the backside to reach a bomber crack with lots of placements or by slinging the entire spire with a 15' cordelette + a couple creative placements. One could also exit right before topping out on the spire and build an excellent anchor there.
- Descent: Descend either by traversing (stay roped) an exposed 3rd class section over to the anchors near Whiskey A Go Go and rapping or by downclimbing the 4th/easy 5th class access trail. I would recommend the rappel as the safer option; you can sling a tree or two on the way to make it a bit safer for everyone involved.
- Rock Quality: The rock quality is very good inside the crack and decent on the top-out. The top out has plenty solid & not-so-solid holds. Pay attention and it should not be a problem.
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