Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Y-Crack Wall

A Dish to Pass S,TR 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Blinded by Lust S,TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Dakota Farms Cheese S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Death of A Salesman T,TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Eagle Rare T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Early Times S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Easy Tower Route T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Green Zipper T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Little Rebel Crack AKA Ezra Brooks T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Little pine T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Rebel Yell T,TR 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Straight No Chaser T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Ten High T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Tower Route S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
West Face of Tower T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Whiskey Chimney (aka Pigeon Crack) T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Whiskey a Go-Go S,TR 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Y-Crack (aka Old and in the Way) T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Sport, TR, 30 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,138 total, 8/month
Shared By: Jay Knower on Aug 13, 2005
Admins: Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

You & This Route


3 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

This is the contrived-looking route to the immediate left of Y-Crack. Thin moves lead past three bolts to one bolt with a quick link (the anchor).

I thought little of the route (it doesn't even go to the top of the wall) until I got on it. I found a very difficult move passing the second bolt followed by some long moves, almost lunges, linking crimps.

The rock is perfect and the moves are engaging. By the time I reached the anchor, I was happy that it was only three bolts long. Take that for what you will...

Protection

Three bolts to a one bolt anchor.

Photos

JamesW
  5.12c
JamesW  
  5.12c
I was looking at the link-up possibility this past weekend...the wall is super-blank past the anchors...just 1 hold & maybe, but I don't see a link-up happening. Aug 21, 2008
JJ Schlick
Flagstaff, AZ
JJ Schlick   Flagstaff, AZ  
This thing has Schmidt written all over it. The reason it was originally chopped was because people were leading Old and In The Way and clipping the bolts on Dish. To some, that is just tooo much...I noticed the new bolts are a tad bit further away. Still, it does kind of mar the beauty of the natural lines right next door. Sometimes an extra route just isn't worth it. A saving grace might be to try and link this thing into Death of a Salesman. That would be some enduro crimping. Sep 12, 2006