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Routes in Above Anthrax

Climb with a View T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Late Night Chalk Show S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Ponyboy S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Pretty Piece of Flesh S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Riverboat Gambler S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Solo Crack T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Who is Bernd Arnold? S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
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Type: Sport, 30 ft
FA: Keith Hengen
Page Views: 3,919 total · 38/month
Shared By: computerskillclimbing. on Apr 10, 2010
Admins: Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

You & This Route


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Description

Scramble up the boulders to the right of the main block and pre-clip the first bolt from there. This route is short and very intense - significantly harder than Whiskey a go go (ultra classic...), but shorter. Grading is difficult due to the length, yet the crux (moving from the second to third bolt) is both sequence specific and powerful. Flex your huge muscles really hard and follow the arrette to chains. Then go have a beer.

Location

This route is the right hand side of the block that follows the obvious angled arrette. On the right side of the upper arrette is an aesthetic finger crack. Lower off of the chains or untie and walk off the back side.

Protection

All bolts.

Photos

If you've already done Whiskey or are a strong boulderer (but stay away from endurance routes), let me encourage you to get on this climb. It's somewhere between a boulder problem and a proper route, but it's hard, aesthetic and fun nonetheless. The grade is a suggestion at this point and is based on Whiskey as a .13a. Apr 10, 2010
Chris treggE
Madison, Beersconsin
Chris treggE   Madison, Beersconsin  
Wow, nice job dude! Apr 11, 2010
Remo
Madison, WI
Remo   Madison, WI
Nice work Keith!!! So this was your little secret, looks great. Apr 11, 2010
sweatpants
Broomfield, CO
sweatpants   Broomfield, CO
sounds delightfully short! Apr 11, 2010
Remo
Madison, WI
Remo   Madison, WI
This is a really cool feature. Vinny and I were able to figure out most of the moves, but the two move crux sequence is HARD! After that its fun and bouldery to the top. Stoked on this new project, thanks Keith. Apr 20, 2010
Hell yeah! I met up with Steve Tucker on Sunday and we're both eyeing two more lines. He's going to bolt a cool (big!) roof, and I'm bolting a giant fin this week. Both are tall, gorgeous lines and it's surprising they haven't been climbed yet.

So, new digs at Necedah this summer. Apr 20, 2010
TravisMelin
Portland, OR, Roanoke, VA L
  5.13a/b
TravisMelin   Portland, OR, Roanoke, VA L
  5.13a/b
Awesome line Keith! super fun classic, well worth the time on it. In a way its a wee bit of a one move wonder, but it didnt take away from its aesthetic at all. Nov 3, 2010
Remo
Madison, WI
Remo   Madison, WI
Yes Melin! Nice work. Nov 4, 2010
Travis - I'm stoked that you got it! It's certainly one hard move, but I was excited to find something new to climb. Keep crushing.

- k Nov 6, 2010

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