Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Air Spire

Aimless Foreshadowing T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Air T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Chucklehead Crack (aka Spike's Crack) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Phallus in Wonderland T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Return of the Chucklehead's T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unknown (The Line over Lucy?) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Trad, 100 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Aaron Stetzer
Page Views: 4,713 total · 41/month
Shared By: Corey Morris on Jun 4, 2009 with updates from Keaton Miller
Admins: Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

You & This Route

40 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:

     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:

-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick


P1. For those who want to do an "Air" variation... Start on "Air" then climb to 3rd bolt. Climb about 6 feet higher, look left and see a keyhole cave. Go through it to a set of 2 bolt anchors immediately to the right after emerging from it. Put a piece high in cave to help with rope drag. It's fun. 5.6

P2: Take chimney to the top. Look for two bolt anchors slightly to the right (north) at the top. You can rappel to base just barely with a 60m rope. Tie knots on the ends and aim just right of the tree on 4th class ledges when you toss your rope. 5.6/7


Draws and larger cams for second pitch.


Ah, I get it. This shares the 1st pitch anchors with "Spikes Crack" after exiting the tunnel. Cool. Jul 1, 2010
Corey Morris
Landstuhl, Germany
Corey Morris   Landstuhl, Germany
Yes-sir...Nick, if you feel that the beta I give on any of these routes I've added are vague or mis-leading...IM me...Freddy and I put chain, shackle, and screw link equalized on the top of the second pitch of this climb on our second outing this last spring. Upon climbing it on the first outing...we found the that the sling that used to be up there was cut and left there...this really sucked to rap off of one bolt, so we added chain...wanted to leave biners up there but decided not to as they might walk away...probably gonna rig the the anchors at pitch one with the same setup as long as the top stays the same way we left it on our second outing. I dunno why someone would cut that sling. I think the second pitch is quite fun...squeeze chimney to 5.6/7 that kinda makes you think before commiting the next move...

Probably gonna do the same to "Air" as well will beefier 3/8 HD transport chain since its such a trade route. Just wanna keep things as safe as they can be. Jul 16, 2010
Slings are bad to leave as perm anchors, can look intact but bust with a tug after a months of sun exposure. Someone probably thought the slings were unwise and cut it. I am planning on putting some chains on the first anchors next time I'm up, the red slings there looked bad.

The tunnel is so cool, I was awestruck when I realized it went all the way through. Jul 17, 2010
Corey Morris
Landstuhl, Germany
Corey Morris   Landstuhl, Germany
We are not the ones who originally equiped these routes with anchors...I agree that leaving webbing is not a good system and the only time I have done this is in the Needles. The old system on top had the lower hanger with a screw link and the upper had tubular webbing with a screw link equalized with the lower...Even if its old and crappy, felt better having both to rap instead of one even in the condition that it was but thats just me. It seems remiss to cut it and take the screwlink and just leave the webbing on top but maybe thats just my hangup...We simply added chain to the top to mitigate safety routes nonetheless! Jul 17, 2010
Branden Michelkamp
Salt Lake City
Branden Michelkamp   Salt Lake City
Just climbed this route yesterday, really cool tunnel. Watch for loose rock when entering the tunnel I noticed a few pieces that were sketchy. Fun route! May 7, 2011
Dylan B.
Dylan B.  
It's be nice if there were quicklinks and/or chains on the bolts at the end of the first pitch. Aug 18, 2013
Corey Morris
Landstuhl, Germany
Corey Morris   Landstuhl, Germany
OK, I'll equip it when I come home on leave in Nov...and it will be shackles and chain... Oct 10, 2013
Adam Ronchetti
Madison, WI
Adam Ronchetti   Madison, WI
I'm kind of new to trad climbing. What exactly is considered "larger" when it comes to cams. Since large seems kind of relative. Apr 20, 2018
James Schroeder
Sauk County, WI
James Schroeder   Sauk County, WI  
Adam, there are much better adventures than this for the new trad climber. This is kind of a chosspile. Apr 20, 2018
Ben Clark
La Crosse, WI
Ben Clark   La Crosse, WI
It's a fun route, but I agree some of the rock is rotten in spots. If you are new to trad and don't feel comfortable deciphering questionable rock quality, I'd look elsewhere for your first leads. It's a cool little adventure though.

The cave is fun, and all who followed enjoyed that part the most.

Thanks Corey & Aaron Jun 2, 2018

More About Phallus in Wonderland