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Routes in Pedestal Buttress

All The Way T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Angle of the Dangle T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Assume the Position T,TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Beginning, The T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Birch Tree Crack T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Blow-up T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Chimney's End T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Condolences T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Congratulations T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Creation Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
D.L.F.A T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Dog, The TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Dyslexia TR 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
End Of The End, The TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
End, The T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Evelyn Bites The Crust TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
F4 Ledges T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Flake Route T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Golden Ledges T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Hourglass T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Hourglass Direct TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Ironmongers T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Ironmongers Super Direct T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Lethe T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Lower Diagonal T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Modern Art TR 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Pedestal, The T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Pete's Lament TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Pine Box T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rich and Famous TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Sometime Crack T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sometime Direct T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Sometimes Left Side TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Sometimes Right T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Stretcher, The TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Sweatshop T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Upper Diagonal T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Welfare Line TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, TR
FA: Rich Goldstone
Page Views: 15,297 total, 81/month
Shared By: Brian Milhaupt on May 5, 2002
Admins: Burt Lindquist, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

You & This Route


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Description

One of the best routes Devil's Lake has to offer. The name says it all. When facing the right side of Pedestal Buttress this route slices up and left from the dead tree at the base of Birch Tree Crack. Stay on the higher of the cracks, as the other is obviously Lower D. Good stopper from finger locks and at times insecure feet lead to a pleasant topout. Also easy to TR, but a swing is inevitable. Better to swing low than high. That's what she said.

Protection

stoppers, small to medium cams

Photos

Ted Pinson
Chicago, IL
 
Ted Pinson   Chicago, IL
 
Finally got on this thing...incredible climb. The swing can very easily be avoided if you just place a few directional anchors on rappel and set the anchor where it tops out (as others said: swing low, not high). If you're toproping and don't have a lot of cams, you can even just clip a sling to the piton...it doesn't have to hold body weight. Aug 17, 2016
rgold
Poughkeepsie, NY
rgold   Poughkeepsie, NY
Doug, I have no doubt Pete led it, but I led it before he even arrived at Devil's Lake. As I said above, Gill, Slinger, and Wiegand were more than capable and I don't know about them. May 10, 2015
Doug Hemken
Madison, WI
 
Doug Hemken   Madison, WI  
 
According to Smith and Zimmerman (1970), the FA was Pete Cleveland. What do you think, Rich? Feb 25, 2015
rgold
Poughkeepsie, NY
rgold   Poughkeepsie, NY
I guess it is possible that I did the first lead; I lead it in the early sixties. There were other climbers around who could easily have done it before me; John Gill, Dave Slinger, and Roger Wiegand are three that I know of. And soon after Pete Cleveland and Jim and Dave Erickson showed up, at which point it was a walk in the park.

The first time I tried it---I think that was '62---my foot skidded off something and I popped off, pulling a piton (this was before nuts) before being caught on a pin just a few feet away. I didn't come back right away, I think the successful lead was in '63. It was sorta on sight, as I never top-roped it, but of course had been on the start the year before.

We had no idea about grades at the time and thought it was probably a 5.8. Feb 24, 2015
fx101  
Really fun climb with an endless array of bomber placements all the way up. I have no idea how one of the previous commenters managed to get into a 25ft whipper here (assuming no gear popped out and he/she wasn't running it out). The kneebar halfway through lets you rest to your heart's content.

Don't toprope it... there's HUGE pendulum potential into trees. Given the plethora of bomber gear and clean fall line, there's really not a good reason to not lead it (even for a beginner). Oct 8, 2013
Mikekd
Mammoth lakes, CA
  5.9
Mikekd   Mammoth lakes, CA
  5.9
No, if one would fail to "let me know" that you have dislodged it then he/she may be stricken with climbing karma.
But in all honesty, the gear is there, I left it, if you get it out more power to ya and you can hold on to your prize. Sadly, I'm not sure how many climbers out there follow the proper etiquette that you are implying. Jul 7, 2012
Burt Lindquist
Madison, WI
Burt Lindquist   Madison, WI  
So MdRock.... are ya saying even the climber that makes an effort to get your cam dis-lodged (with the expressed intention of returning it to it's rightful owner) but then FAILS will still be cursed or as you put it...."stricken with climbing karma"? Jun 25, 2012
Andy Hansen
Longmont, Colorado
  5.9
Andy Hansen   Longmont, Colorado
  5.9
Were the chicks really smokin' hot? Jul 21, 2011
Victor Whipping
Salt Lake City
  5.9
Victor Whipping   Salt Lake City
  5.9
Great, fun route. Easily protected from above. While working the first crux right above the ledge, my partner took a huge swing all the way around the face, spooking the people on the next buttress. Saw a bird's nest with a few chicks in it about 1/2 way up the route. Jul 21, 2011
Tradiban  
 
Cute, furry BAT in this thing today. He slept through all the ascents though. May 6, 2011
Daniel Plinska  
  5.9
This route is one of the best that Devil's Lake has to offer. Truly classic! Apr 25, 2011
Andy Hansen
Longmont, Colorado
  5.9
Andy Hansen   Longmont, Colorado
  5.9
For the grade, I don't think it gets any better than this climb at the Lake. Absolutely solid gear and climbing all the way from top to bottom. Apr 6, 2010
Jay Knower
Campton, NH
  5.9
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
  5.9
Yes Ryan, you get a kneebar in the alcove. You face right (toward The End) and put your left leg in. Apr 1, 2010
Ryan Strong
Golden, CO
  5.9
Ryan Strong   Golden, CO
  5.9
would liek a lil beta on to where the no hands rest is on the climb? is it a knee bar? Apr 1, 2010
Paul Campbell
Waukesha, WI
  5.9
Paul Campbell   Waukesha, WI
  5.9
Sent on a beautiful February day, super classic! Can't wait to climb it again :) Feb 7, 2009
I led this route one winter in the middle of a blizzard. When I find the photos I'll post them. Jun 5, 2007
25 years ago my climbing mentor Tory Stempf was running a group climbing trip. It was only my second year climbing but I was helping him. He decided to do the diagonal on TR. He fell near the top. The anchor was too far right as it was for the route to the right. He swung into the pine tree driving a pinky sized dead branch into his calf. We helped him down to his car where he drove to the ER and had it pulled out. He was sore and limped a bit but was okay. Great climbing area. I still climb all the time. Apr 18, 2007
Jay Knower
Campton, NH
  5.9
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
  5.9
Yup Tye, it was a #4 stopper that was so welded, I had to rap down with a hammer to get it out. Mar 2, 2007
Jay, I saw that whipper and 25 feet is not an exageration (#4 stopper, right?). You get cudos for not squealing. One of the hardest moves is getting into the crack off of the block. It is also the only place where the gear is somewhat suspect.

tye Nov 11, 2006
You can avoid the 'strawberries' by setting the toprope anchor at the top/exit of Upper D. That way you won't get yanked off balance by the belayer taking up slack and you get a comfortable way to practice the exit mantle. Oct 12, 2003
Jay Knower
Campton, NH
  5.9
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
  5.9
Upper D is probably one of the safer leads in the Park. A few years ago, I took my first real wipper on it, a 25 footer (although the distance seems to grow with each passing year), and escaped unscathed. The first crux right off the ledge protects well with a #3 Camalot, and you have sufficient air under your feet and numerous chances to place gear at the second crux. Plus you can take advantage of a no-hands rest halfway up....there is no excuse not to get on it. Jan 28, 2003
Tom Anderson-Brown
Madison, WI
Tom Anderson-Brown   Madison, WI
I tried out Upper D. last weekend. The thing I noticed about the route is how sustained it is. I did it on TR, so once I got to the top I had a nice scraping swing to the right. I now have a "strawberry" on my back to prove it. Oct 1, 2002
Brian Milhaupt
Golden, CO
 
Brian Milhaupt   Golden, CO
 
First lead!! That's tight! Jun 30, 2002
first lead : rich goldstone May 11, 2002