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Routes in Pedestal Buttress

All The Way T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Angle of the Dangle T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Assume the Position T,TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Beginning, The T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Birch Tree Crack T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Blow-up T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Chimney's End T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Condolences T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Congratulations T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Creation Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
D.L.F.A T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Dog, The TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Dyslexia TR 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
End Of The End, The TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
End, The T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Evelyn Bites The Crust TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
F4 Ledges T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Flake Route T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Golden Ledges T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Hourglass T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Hourglass Direct TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Ironmongers T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Ironmongers Super Direct T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Lethe T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Lower Diagonal T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Modern Art TR 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Pedestal, The T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Pete's Lament TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Pine Box T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rich and Famous TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Sometime Crack T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sometime Direct T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Sometimes Left Side TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Sometimes Right T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Stretcher, The TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Sweatshop T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Upper Diagonal T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Welfare Line TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, TR, 50 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,014 total, 11/month
Shared By: Tom Anderson-Brown on Sep 27, 2002
Admins: Burt Lindquist, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

You & This Route


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Description

Lower Diagonal starts just to the right of the big dead tree stump. Climb up the crack to a ledge. At the ledge, follow the lower diagonal crack (less defined than the upper) to the corner of the buttress, then climb up the corner to the top.

Protection

Standard Rack
Joel Allen
La Crosse, WI
  5.8 PG13
Joel Allen   La Crosse, WI
  5.8 PG13
Well either way it's worth climbing if already setting up on upper D, it's actually pretty fun! :) Sep 21, 2016
James Schroeder
Sauk County, WI
  5.8 PG13
James Schroeder   Sauk County, WI  
  5.8 PG13
Ha!

Joel,

They can't all be four stars, and compared to adjacent routes, this is the last 5.8 I'd climb. Sep 21, 2016
Joel Allen
La Crosse, WI
  5.8 PG13
Joel Allen   La Crosse, WI
  5.8 PG13
Led this onsight a few weeks ago and I'm going to second the PG13 rating James gave. There is plenty of opportunities for gear but none of it is totally bomber. I actually placed like 8-10 pieces of gear and I wasn't completely satisfied with a single one.

I think if you rapped down this with a bunch of gear and really found the best options you could probably make it safe but it would take some time.

The climbing is great though! I thought the moves were quite fun, lots of lie backs on good holds! Go climb it :)

EDIT: ONE STAR JAMES?! The climbing was so fun :) Sep 21, 2016
James Schroeder
Sauk County, WI
  5.8 PG13
James Schroeder   Sauk County, WI  
  5.8 PG13
An awkward, but interesting start exists in the "v-slot" at the bottom right of this photo:

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Doug Hemken
Madison, WI
 
Doug Hemken   Madison, WI  
 
From the old guidebook, "Climbers and Hikers Guide to Devils Lake" by David Smith and Roger Zimmerman, 1970:

"LOWER DIAGONAL, F8B. This route offers experience in placing pitons on the run. Start the same as Birch Tree Crack. Climb the crack to ledge (A) exit left to the upper section of the Pedestal. (A) THE TRICK, F9A. Climb or attack (indeed, a battle will ensue) wall above directly. First lead by Jim Erickson. First lead of the Trick by Sheldon Smith."

Interesting that almost no one uses the Birch Tree start anymore. Jun 21, 2010
Doug Hemken
Madison, WI
 
Doug Hemken   Madison, WI  
 
Similar to leading "Chicago" in that there are not a lot of good stances in a sustained crux, the gear is off to one side, and it takes some work to figure out gear that is good. Must have been a real hero climb in the days of the piton! Jun 21, 2010
Tradiban
  5.8
Tradiban  
  5.8
I finished left of the corner in a nice crack (this is the normal route). Finishing straight up the corner is unprotected but 5.8 and is a variation called "The Trick" in the guidebook.

Very comparable to Upper D but with more difficult and suspect gear placements. Jun 16, 2010
Paul Campbell
Waukesha, WI
  5.8+
Paul Campbell   Waukesha, WI
  5.8+
Very deceiving route, thought it was going to be an easy 8 but the feet get pretty thin in the middle. Feb 7, 2009