Type: Trad, TR, 40 ft
FA: Old School
Page Views: 184 total · 2/month
Shared By: Tradiban on Apr 12, 2012
Admins: Burton Lindquist, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, chris tregge

You & This Route


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Description

Surprised this isn't added already. How many times have I walked past this? Probably 1000. Great moves with three distinct cruxs. End with the layback crux of Rich and Famous.

Location

Just left of Congratulations. Traverse in from the left to get your hand into a pod and wind up for the first dead point crux. Then angle up and left into Rich and Famous.

Protection

Some gear in the horizontals, ripe for a lead if it hasn't already.

Photos

Steve Sangdahl
eldo sprngs,co
Steve Sangdahl   eldo sprngs,co
First top roped by Ralph über Schimdt. Early 80,s. At least that's what I remember Apr 12, 2012
Tradiban
  5.12b
Tradiban  
  5.12b
I tried to lead this yesterday. First piece is a solid green c3 in the first horizontal to protect the dead point. Serious decking potential while placing the next pieces in the next horizontal. There I got a #2 Ballnut and a #1 WC nut but the nut will fly out if pulled to the left or the right. To the right of the nut goes the BallNut but when I placed it ball up and took on it it started to slide, ball down looked better. Above that is another #2 ball nut in a bad upward horizontal position after doing the layback crux, not sure if it would take a fall but is probably ok to hang on, the climbing is much easier there however. Probably will be X rated. Apr 15, 2012