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Routes in 05: Pedestal Buttress

All The Way T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Angle of the Dangle T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Assume the Position T,TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Beginning, The T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Birch Tree Crack T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Blow-up T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Chimney's End T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Condolences T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Congratulations T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Creation Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
D.L.F.A T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Dog, The TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Dyslexia TR 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
End Of The End, The TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
End, The T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Evelyn Bites The Crust TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
F4 Ledges T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Flake Route T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Golden Ledges T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Hourglass T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Hourglass Direct TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Ironmongers T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Ironmongers Super Direct T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Lethe T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Lower Diagonal T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Modern Art TR 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Pedestal, The T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Pete's Lament TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Pine Box T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Rich and Famous TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Sometime Crack T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sometime Direct T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Sometimes Left Side TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Sometimes Right T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Stretcher, The TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Sweatshop T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Upper Diagonal T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Welfare Line TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Unsorted Routes:
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Type: Trad, TR, 40 ft
FA: Old School
Page Views: 158 total · 2/month
Shared By: Tradiban on Apr 12, 2012
Admins: Burton Lindquist, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

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Description

Surprised this isn't added already. How many times have I walked past this? Probably 1000. Great moves with three distinct cruxs. End with the layback crux of Rich and Famous.

Location

Just left of Congratulations. Traverse in from the left to get your hand into a pod and wind up for the first dead point crux. Then angle up and left into Rich and Famous.

Protection

Some gear in the horizontals, ripe for a lead if it hasn't already.

Photos

Steve Sangdahl
eldo sprngs,co
Steve Sangdahl   eldo sprngs,co
First top roped by Ralph ├╝ber Schimdt. Early 80,s. At least that's what I remember Apr 12, 2012
Tradiban
  5.12b
Tradiban  
  5.12b
I tried to lead this yesterday. First piece is a solid green c3 in the first horizontal to protect the dead point. Serious decking potential while placing the next pieces in the next horizontal. There I got a #2 Ballnut and a #1 WC nut but the nut will fly out if pulled to the left or the right. To the right of the nut goes the BallNut but when I placed it ball up and took on it it started to slide, ball down looked better. Above that is another #2 ball nut in a bad upward horizontal position after doing the layback crux, not sure if it would take a fall but is probably ok to hang on, the climbing is much easier there however. Probably will be X rated. Apr 15, 2012

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