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Routes in Pedestal Buttress

All The Way T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Angle of the Dangle T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Assume the Position T,TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Beginning, The T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Birch Tree Crack T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Blow-up T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Chimney's End T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Condolences T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Congratulations T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Creation Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
D.L.F.A T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Dog, The TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Dyslexia TR 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
End Of The End, The TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
End, The T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Evelyn Bites The Crust TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
F4 Ledges T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Flake Route T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Golden Ledges T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Hourglass T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Hourglass Direct TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Ironmongers T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Ironmongers Super Direct T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Lethe T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Lower Diagonal T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Modern Art TR 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Pedestal, The T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Pete's Lament TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Pine Box T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rich and Famous TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Sometime Crack T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sometime Direct T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Sometimes Left Side TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Sometimes Right T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Stretcher, The TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Sweatshop T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Upper Diagonal T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Welfare Line TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, TR, 50 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 15,620 total, 85/month
Shared By: Tom Anderson-Brown on Oct 27, 2002
Admins: Burt Lindquist, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

You & This Route


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Description

Birch Tree Crack is found just off the CCC trail on the southeast side of the Pedestal Buttress. Climb up on blocky terrain about 5 feet to access the crack. The crack starts out with you in a small alcove. Step up on a loose block and perform a tricky sequence to ascend the first section of the crack (the section with less features and lots of white chalk). Once above this crux continue on slightly easier terrain. Try to jam the crack instead of using the features on the face. It makes things more interesting.

Protection

Small to medium stoppers.

Photos

Doug Hemken
Madison, WI
 
Doug Hemken   Madison, WI  
 
Like a number of routes at Devils Lake, this rocking block has been a feature of "Birch Tree" for literally decades. Certainly use loose blocks with the appropriate caution - on well-traveled routes you will find they are more a threat to your gear than to your belayer. It is easy to fix a piece or have something rip in a fall if you are not paying attention.

Respect the rock! Aug 30, 2017
There is a medium sized boulder right above the first ledge in the crack that is somewhat loose(about 8 ft into the climb). Try to avoid this as it wiggled when we stepped on it since it could be dangerous for the belayer. Aug 29, 2017
Seth Jones
New Lenox, IL
 
Seth Jones   New Lenox, IL
 
Finally went back and got the clean lead yesterday. Who got the cam stuck above the crux? Nice one ;)

Such a great route! Nov 2, 2016
Jacob Krenn
La Valle, WI
 
Jacob Krenn   La Valle, WI
 
Led this classic for the first time this evening, after having followed/TR it a couple times in the past. I felt there was enough gear to place before committing to the crux moves to make it feel safe, and the the rest is just a super fun climb, with plenty of secure holds/jams, and great gear options. Highly recommended to anyone considering leading it! Sep 1, 2016
Burt Lindquist
Madison, WI
Burt Lindquist   Madison, WI  
Way to go Seth. Most folks getting on this climb for the first time get shut down at the slick and devious crux move. Ha! Apr 18, 2016
Seth Jones
New Lenox, IL
 
Seth Jones   New Lenox, IL
 
Attempted a lead on this yesterday with some beta from James. Unfortunately, I got pumped out near the top and had to hang for a rest before finishing. Gonna try a clean lead next trip. This is an awesome lead for someone with a current limit of around 5.8-5.9. Great gear at the crux and right after, as well as pretty much anywhere else you want to plug something. Plenty of chances to bail. Apr 18, 2016
Joel Allen
La Crosse, WI
  5.8
Joel Allen   La Crosse, WI
  5.8
Amazing climb. Get James's clutch step by step beta and you'll hike up it. ;) Jun 28, 2015
James Schroeder
Sauk County, WI
  5.8-
James Schroeder   Sauk County, WI  
  5.8-
This is definitely one of the best 5.8 leads in the park. Great gear available, with an easily-protected yet sharp and distinct crux that leads to fun splitter climbing above. An absolute must-do for the 5.8 leader at Devil's Lake. May 18, 2015
Marty Combs
Boulder, CO
  5.8+
Marty Combs   Boulder, CO
  5.8+
Protects well, but the crux is definitely HARD for 5.8. Great lead for those confident with 5.8. Sep 6, 2008
Paul Huebner
Portage, WI
  5.8
Paul Huebner   Portage, WI
  5.8
After John Pruessner and I climbed this route in 4/89, we knew we could lead the Durrance on Devil's Tower. Like Queen's Throne -- this is an excellent -- but more difficult climb to learn how to jam up a crack in preparation for climbing at the Tower. Aug 18, 2007
Colin Erskine
Madison, WI
  5.8+
Colin Erskine   Madison, WI
  5.8+
What a great and classic climb. A few people were having trouble in the crux part but i pulled it off just fine. I even used a knee bar during it to reach up for the next holds.The route flows very nice and is great and i think everyone should try it. Sep 19, 2005
You can see the Upper D stump in the first of the 3 photos I posted.

The tree I'm talking about grew right out of the crack ~ON~ Birch Tree and has been gone for what like 20 years now. May 29, 2003
Yup. You got it, Tom. That's what I'm thinking of. I remember leaning against that stump to belay, once. I also remember using it to cheat a little when I first started climbing. Now, I'd use it to cheat a lot! LOL! May 28, 2003
Tom Anderson-Brown
Madison, WI
 
Tom Anderson-Brown   Madison, WI
 
You might be thinking about the giant stump sitting below Lower Diagonal. May 27, 2003
How long ago did the tree fall? We all know I'm not a fan of crowds when climbing, so I stay away from the East Bluff/East Rampart like a plague, but I do recall a large, six foot stump there several years back. Is that still there? Or, am I thinking of something else again... May 27, 2003
Steve Sangdahl
eldo sprngs,co
Steve Sangdahl   eldo sprngs,co
This is a great route. I will look to see if i can find a picture with the tree still in place. we use to think we were clever by tying it off for the lead. On a side note this actually a pretty solid solo. May 23, 2003
___Yes, if you get the foot beta correct and do not end up too far left, there are no 5.10 moves

Too far left is _-Off Route_- I mean come on it's a crack. No move is 5.10 on the route.

Does anyone have a picture of the route with the Pine Tree still in Place? Come on Steve you gotta have one......

I saw it a Neptune in Co. but I'd REALLY like to get a copyIf you have one could you please e-mail me at:

Tapecat@columbus.rr.com May 20, 2003
Jay Knower
Campton, NH
 
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
 
Chase,Yes, if you get the foot beta correct and do not end up too far left, there are no 5.10 moves. However, as the massive amount of chalk on the crux testifies, many climbers totaly screw up the sequence. Hence the 5.10 comment. I agree with you that this is a great lead. The pro is bomber and the crux is well protected. Even the crux gear can be easily placed from the alcove. The moves notwithstanding, I would say that based on ease of gear placement, this is one of the best first 5.8 leads in the park. May 9, 2003
This is a great climb for moderate leaders; great pro and rests abound. So skip the TR and climb this classic on the sharp end of the rope. I disagree with Jay, there are no 5.10 moves on this climb, not unless you don't know how to handjam. So get out there and lead this classic if you haven't yet. May 7, 2003
Jay Knower
Campton, NH
 
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
 
Birch Tree exemplifies the classic Devil's Lake rating system: Two moves of 5.10 plus ten moves of 5.6 equals a total rating of 5.8. I would agree with anyone who says that this "one move climb" is a desperate sandbag. Very accomplished climbers have flailed mightily on this one. Jan 29, 2003
Jason Gandy  
 
This is a great climb and one of my favorite in the park. The crux is a short two to three move sequence to get over the widest section of crack on the climb. The sequence is all about the right jams and footwork. After that enjoy the beautiful crack line on your way to the top.

The crux is worthy of the climb's rating, the rest is sustained easier climbing. Oct 24, 2002