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Routes in Pedestal Buttress

All The Way T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Angle of the Dangle T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Assume the Position T,TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Beginning, The T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Birch Tree Crack T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Blow-up T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Chimney's End T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Condolences T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Congratulations T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Creation Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
D.L.F.A T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Dog, The TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Dyslexia TR 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
End Of The End, The TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
End, The T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Evelyn Bites The Crust TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
F4 Ledges T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Flake Route T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Golden Ledges T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Hourglass T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Hourglass Direct TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Ironmongers T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Ironmongers Super Direct T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Lethe T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Lower Diagonal T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Modern Art TR 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Pedestal, The T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Pete's Lament TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Pine Box T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rich and Famous TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Sometime Crack T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sometime Direct T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Sometimes Left Side TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Sometimes Right T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Stretcher, The TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Sweatshop T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Upper Diagonal T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Welfare Line TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, TR
FA: First Lead, Steve Sangdahl, September 1979
Page Views: 6,414 total, 32/month
Shared By: Jay Knower on Aug 31, 2001
Admins: Burt Lindquist, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

You & This Route


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Description

Flake Route is the quintessential Devil's Lake climb--thin technical crimping on a vertical face.

Start up the center of "Campus Wall" directly underneath the alcove on Upper Diagonal. Climb straight up to the alcove, where you will find a fixed pin and a sneaky no-hands rest. Next, cast right and up, following small square cut crimpers up the center of the wall.

This climb is actually better protected than it looks if you place gear (.5 and .75 Camalots) on Upper-D, a few feet above the alcove.

Protection

On lead: .5 and .75 Camalots, small stoppers including brassies, small TCUs.
Matt Kuehl
Las Vegas
 
Matt Kuehl   Las Vegas
 
Route of the year! Any year! Sep 19, 2012
Ryan Strong
Golden, CO
  5.10d
Ryan Strong   Golden, CO
  5.10d
I would agree with Hansen the Direct start is the way to go. I got my first piece in at about the 10' mark followed by another 10' of climbing placing a piece just below the piton in the alcove. The real run out on the route comes moving through the alcove and gaining the first good hold just above the horizontal pods. From that good hold I placed what I thought were two bomber pieces. I opted not to place gear in upper d past the alcove. Jul 11, 2012
Josh Knapp
East Troy, Wisconsin
  5.10d PG13
Josh Knapp   East Troy, Wisconsin
  5.10d PG13
Killer Route! Great moves, fantastic position, a little heady, perfection! Jun 19, 2011
Tradiban
  5.10d PG13
Tradiban  
  5.10d PG13
Sandbagger. Jun 13, 2011
Andy Hansen
Longmont, Colorado
  5.10+
Andy Hansen   Longmont, Colorado
  5.10+
Well, there's a touch of spice on this route to say the least. Ideally the crux piece would be a red BD Junior (4 lobes) for optimal surface contact... the purple C3 didn't quite cut it for me but I climbed above it anyways. There are a few spots where you really wouldn't want to fall I guess. Jun 13, 2011
Tradiban
  5.10d PG13
Tradiban  
  5.10d PG13
To clarify Andy, the gear on the direct start is bomber or the whole route? If you say the whole route, you're a sand-bagger ;) Jun 13, 2011
Andy Hansen
Longmont, Colorado
  5.10+
Andy Hansen   Longmont, Colorado
  5.10+
Direct start is the way to go. Though slightly less protected than the start on Upper D, the moves are pretty cool and get you psyched to launch into the upper crux which is fantastic. Also, this line will reduce rope drag if you use long runners. The gear is BOMBER. Jun 13, 2011
Tradiban
  5.10d PG13
Tradiban  
  5.10d PG13
Devils Lake crimpin'! A #000 C3 helped kill the runout after the flake. The other cams buried well in the seams.
I don't think the alternative start on Upper D would make a difference to the grade, just make it easier to protect the bottom. But, I do really like straight lines.
I should have used runners on the upper pieces, that would have eliminated rope drag but it wasn't too bad. Aug 26, 2009
Burt Lindquist
Madison, WI
Burt Lindquist   Madison, WI  
Whoops- re-read your post Kayte.... I guess the proper route according to DL "holders of the way" is to lead (or climb) straight up from the tree..... but who cares.. doesn't diminish the ascent one bit.... nor the "girl friend take" comment either... was the guys girl friend belaying... hee hee I woulda dropped him a few feet. Jul 30, 2009
James Schroeder
Sauk County, WI
  5.10d
James Schroeder   Sauk County, WI  
  5.10d
Nice work Kayte. Jul 30, 2009
Kayte Knower  
 
Interesting. I wonder which start is more standard -- the "right" start by DL standards. I know routes are often strictly defined here. I definitely enjoyed starting on Upper-D though.

The singing as a whole was pretty chaotic, but one of them at least had a real set of pipes. Jul 30, 2009
Burt Lindquist
Madison, WI
Burt Lindquist   Madison, WI  
I thought that was the proper way to lead "Flake Route"....(not the double ropes part).
So did the group singing up above you suck or did they sound good? This would make all the difference to me.... Jul 30, 2009
Kayte Knower  
 
Let the DL purists flay me alive, I led the start of Upper Diagonal into Flake Route instead of doing the real start over the dead tree (AKA the huge spike). Since Upper-D trends left and the Flake crux traverses right, I used double ropes. This perfectly eliminated the rope drag and, as a bonus, made me feel extra cool on the airy upper crux.

It was a quintessentially Devil's Lake experience. I had a half-moon at my back for most of the climb, with the lake and talus below glowing in the sunset. A sizable group of hikers at the top were singing about getting home before dark. A guy climbing beside me on Birch Tree acknowledged a "bit of help" from the top-rope, but explained that it was not a true "girlfriend take". He then asked me if Flakes was my first ever lead. It was perfect. Jul 30, 2009
Have not led and never will. None the less this is a stellar route even
if TR'd. Jun 24, 2006
Jay - the photo you asked about of flake route is of a guy I know as 'Cheeze'who moved to CO a few years back. He was aiding the route and Tom Colemann lowered him the fosters for the picture. Then as the story goes he started throwing snowballs at Cheeze. May 29, 2002
Steve Sangdahl
eldo sprngs,co
Steve Sangdahl   eldo sprngs,co
the photo is of steve sangdahl on the first lead in 1979. note the 2"swami webbing(no harness May 20, 2002
Steve Sangdahl
eldo sprngs,co
Steve Sangdahl   eldo sprngs,co
Jay,I remember leading flake route with a couple of beers clipped on to my rack, but idoubt if it was fosters .it was probably some hedious cheap swill such as BLATZ, etc. I also remember that the flake that we thought we were so clever tying off was easily kicked off at a later date. May 20, 2002
Jay Knower
Campton, NH
 
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
 
Steve, There used to be a picture in the old Silverdale of someone on Flakes holding an oil can of Fosters while on lead (or was he aiding? I don't remember). Was that you? Do you know the pic I am talking about? May 16, 2002
Steve Sangdahl
eldo sprngs,co
Steve Sangdahl   eldo sprngs,co
the first lead of the "FLAKE ROUTE" was by Steve Sangdahl 1979. I do not know who originally top-roped it. I named the route "Flakes!Flakes!" after the song by Frank Zappa (Sheik Yer Bouti /album. May 15, 2002