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Flake Route
5.10d YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 21 ZA E3 5b British PG13
Avg: 3.7 from 110
votes
Routes in 05: Pedestal Buttress
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All The Way T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Angle of the Dangle T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Assume the Position T,TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Beginning, The T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Birch Tree Crack T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Blow-up T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Chimney's End T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Condolences T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Congratulations T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Creation Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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D.L.F.A T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Dog, The TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Dyslexia TR 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c |
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End Of The End, The TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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End, The T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Evelyn Bites The Crust TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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F4 Ledges T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Flake Route T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 |
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Golden Ledges T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Hourglass T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Hourglass Direct TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Ironmongers T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Ironmongers Super Direct T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Lethe T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Lower Diagonal T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Modern Art TR 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Pedestal, The T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Pete's Lament TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Pine Box T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Rich and Famous TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Sometime Crack T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Sometime Direct T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R |
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Sometimes Left Side TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Sometimes Right T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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Stretcher, The TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Sweatshop T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Upper Diagonal T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Welfare Line TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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| Type: | Trad, TR |
| FA: | First Lead, Steve Sangdahl, September 1979 |
| Page Views: | 9,288 total · 32/month |
| Shared By: | Jay Knower on Aug 31, 2001 |
| Admins: | Ian Cotter-Brown, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, chris tregge, Ben Strobel, Kyle Harding |
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Description
Flake Route is the quintessential Devil's Lake climb--thin technical crimping on a vertical face.
Start up the center of "Campus Wall" directly underneath the alcove on Upper Diagonal. Climb straight up to the alcove, where you will find a fixed pin and a sneaky no-hands rest. Next, cast right and up, following small square cut crimpers up the center of the wall.
This climb is actually better protected than it looks if you place gear (.5 and .75 Camalots) on Upper-D, a few feet above the alcove.
Start up the center of "Campus Wall" directly underneath the alcove on Upper Diagonal. Climb straight up to the alcove, where you will find a fixed pin and a sneaky no-hands rest. Next, cast right and up, following small square cut crimpers up the center of the wall.
This climb is actually better protected than it looks if you place gear (.5 and .75 Camalots) on Upper-D, a few feet above the alcove.
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