Type: Trad, TR
FA: First Lead, Steve Sangdahl, September 1979
Page Views: 8,606 total · 33/month
Shared By: Jay Knower on Aug 31, 2001
Admins: Ian CB, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, chris tregge

You & This Route

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Flake Route is the quintessential Devil's Lake climb--thin technical crimping on a vertical face.

Start up the center of "Campus Wall" directly underneath the alcove on Upper Diagonal. Climb straight up to the alcove, where you will find a fixed pin and a sneaky no-hands rest. Next, cast right and up, following small square cut crimpers up the center of the wall.

This climb is actually better protected than it looks if you place gear (.5 and .75 Camalots) on Upper-D, a few feet above the alcove.


On lead: .5 and .75 Camalots, small stoppers including brassies, small TCUs.