All Locations > Wisconsin > Baraboo Range > Devil's Lake > E Bluff 04 - E… > 05: Pedestal Buttress

Flake Route

Name: Flake Route
Rating: 3.7

5.10d YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 21 ZA E3 5b British PG13

Routes in 05: Pedestal Buttress

L › R R › L A › Z

	All The Way T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
	Angle of the Dangle T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Assume the Position T,TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Beginning, The T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Birch Tree Crack T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Blow-up T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Chimney's End T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
	Condolences T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Congratulations T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Creation Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	D.L.F.A T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Dog, The TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Dyslexia TR 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
	End Of The End, The TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	End, The T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
	Evelyn Bites The Crust TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	F4 Ledges T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
	Flake Route T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
	Golden Ledges T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Hourglass T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Hourglass Direct TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Ironmongers T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Ironmongers Super Direct T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Lethe T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Lower Diagonal T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Modern Art TR 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
	Pedestal, The T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
	Pete's Lament TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Pine Box T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Rich and Famous TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Sometime Crack T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Sometime Direct T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
	Sometimes Left Side TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Sometimes Right T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
	Stretcher, The TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Sweatshop T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Upper Diagonal T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Welfare Line TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Unsorted Routes:

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Type:	Trad, TR
FA:	First Lead, Steve Sangdahl, September 1979
Page Views:	8,606 total · 33/month
Shared By:	Jay Knower on Aug 31, 2001
Admins:	Ian CB, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, chris tregge Page Updates (admin only)

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Description

Flake Route is the quintessential Devil's Lake climb--thin technical crimping on a vertical face.

Start up the center of "Campus Wall" directly underneath the alcove on Upper Diagonal. Climb straight up to the alcove, where you will find a fixed pin and a sneaky no-hands rest. Next, cast right and up, following small square cut crimpers up the center of the wall.

This climb is actually better protected than it looks if you place gear (.5 and .75 Camalots) on Upper-D, a few feet above the alcove.