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Routes in Pedestal Buttress

All The Way T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Angle of the Dangle T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Assume the Position T,TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Beginning, The T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Birch Tree Crack T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Blow-up T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Chimney's End T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Condolences T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Congratulations T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Creation Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
D.L.F.A T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Dog, The TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Dyslexia TR 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
End Of The End, The TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
End, The T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Evelyn Bites The Crust TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
F4 Ledges T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Flake Route T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Golden Ledges T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Hourglass T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Hourglass Direct TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Ironmongers T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Ironmongers Super Direct T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Lethe T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Lower Diagonal T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Modern Art TR 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Pedestal, The T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Pete's Lament TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Pine Box T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rich and Famous TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Sometime Crack T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sometime Direct T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Sometimes Left Side TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Sometimes Right T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Stretcher, The TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Sweatshop T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Upper Diagonal T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Welfare Line TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: TR, 50 ft
FA: First Lead: Jason Huston, 2006
Page Views: 133 total, 1/month
Shared By: Jay Knower on Aug 9, 2005
Admins: Burt Lindquist, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

You & This Route


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Description

Are you planning a trip to Jackson Falls, or maybe to The Red? If so, you could do no better than to climb "The Dog" beforehand.

An overhanging arete unique to the Lake, "The Dog" feels like a sport route. Expect powerful, steep moves instead of the typical thin, crypto-technical moves found on many of DL's 5.12's. If you want to get strong, then look no further than "The Dog." If you want to get uber-strong, then start by doing laps on "The Dog."

To locate "The Dog," first locate The End. Start on The End's starting holds, but traverse right, eventually weaving an "S" path back left to the arete. From here, follow the steep arete to the top.

What, you have reached the top with nary a razor crimp encountered? That, my friend, is the joy of "The Dog."

Protection

Toprope.

Photos

Tradiban  
 
There's probably confusion on which holds are "on" this one. The key is to first acknowledge that there are in fact small holds contrary to the description (sorry Jay) and that after completing the traverse and matching on the pinch jug you must use your LEFT hand on the next higher crimp to set your self on the arete proper. Using your right pushes you into The End.
Classic moves and an impressive lead from Huston. Apr 5, 2013
Tom Petraitis
Evanston, IL
  5.11d
Tom Petraitis   Evanston, IL
  5.11d
Chrit treggE, you're correct. I had veered onto Dyslexia 13a/b not Ice (and it felt 13-something hard!). I didn't bother looking at the route listings. Lazy me. Thanks for the clarification! I almost got thru the first crux. I am sure I saw the sequence. I gotta go back and try some more. May 4, 2009
Chris treggE
Madison, WI
Chris treggE   Madison, WI  
I'm no expert but if you went right that's Dyslexia right? Not ICE... May 4, 2009
Tom Petraitis
Evanston, IL
  5.11d
Tom Petraitis   Evanston, IL
  5.11d
I was lucky enough to arrive late enough this Saturday morning to see two guys pulling their toprope from The Dog, and they suggested I go for it... plus the rope can be used to climb The End 5.10a/b just as well. They said it had just a few hard moves down low... and "the rest was easy". I found the "hard" moves in the middle of the "S" (the traverse left back to the arete), but I chose not to continue to the arete. My experience on DL 12s is a sustained level of difficulty, so I turned right looking for more hard climbing. I think I found "holds" on the route Ice (5.13) that I just couldn't handle. After falling enough to guess I was off route I followed the middle of the "S" traverse over to the arete and finished surprisingly easily. On my second attempt I stayed on route and sent it. Should have listened to those two guys! Really fun climb! But not as hard as I expected for a DL 12. May 4, 2009
JJ Schlick
Flagstaff, AZ
 
JJ Schlick   Flagstaff, AZ  
 
This was once an arcane Cleveland TR ignored by the masses until Dave G and Rich B breathed life back into it around the middle eighties. As the story goes, Rich came down from firing it and said, "we will simply refer to this one as the Dog F..ker." Ahh, the good ole days of few sensitivities. A very fun line if you don't mind eliminates, and like Jay said, it is a very non-archetypal 12 at the lake. Sep 27, 2006