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Routes in Pedestal Buttress

All The Way T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Angle of the Dangle T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Assume the Position T,TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Beginning, The T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Birch Tree Crack T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Blow-up T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Chimney's End T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Condolences T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Congratulations T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Creation Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
D.L.F.A T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Dog, The TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Dyslexia TR 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
End Of The End, The TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
End, The T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Evelyn Bites The Crust TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
F4 Ledges T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Flake Route T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Golden Ledges T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Hourglass T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Hourglass Direct TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Ironmongers T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Ironmongers Super Direct T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Lethe T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Lower Diagonal T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Modern Art TR 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Pedestal, The T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Pete's Lament TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Pine Box T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rich and Famous TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Sometime Crack T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sometime Direct T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Sometimes Left Side TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Sometimes Right T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Stretcher, The TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Sweatshop T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Upper Diagonal T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Welfare Line TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, TR, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,575 total, 13/month
Shared By: Tom Anderson-Brown on May 27, 2001
Admins: Burt Lindquist, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

You & This Route


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Description

The Pedestal is a fun climb that is typically done in two pitches to reduce rope drag. Start by the flake near Lower Diagonal. Climb up about 15 feet then traverse left on top of flake (psychological crux) and around the corner. Belay stance is in a comfortable notch. The second pitch continues up and left toward the pine tree. Finish up on a ten foot wall with a one-move crack.

Protection

Standard Rack, cordelette for breaking climb into two pitches
Joel Allen
La Crosse, WI
  5.4
Joel Allen   La Crosse, WI
  5.4
Good point James! I never thought of slinging the block, maybe I'll try that next time instead of condolences. However, I do still think condolences is the better lead, the gear is right in your face and it's barely any harder! Maybe one move at 5.7ish? Either way, great fun warm-up, I do it all the time! :) Aug 18, 2016
Burt Lindquist
Madison, WI
Burt Lindquist   Madison, WI  
I actually think Condolences is the better lead as it has better gear off the deck. I know the grade is 12 letters harder but to me the 5.7 doesn't climb much more difficult then the 5.4. Aug 18, 2016
James Schroeder
Sauk County, WI
  5.4
James Schroeder   Sauk County, WI  
  5.4
I think the shift from thuggish offwidthing and weird pedestal humping, to steep face climbing throws people for a loop. I think the thing protects well (sling the block!), but the move off the pedestal is disconcerting for sure. Aug 18, 2016
Joel Allen
La Crosse, WI
  5.4
Joel Allen   La Crosse, WI
  5.4
You should have did condolences Ted, the start protects better and it's more fun! :) But anyway, the traverse projects just fine. The only case I could see for PG13 would be the first 10 feet (which is why I always suggest condolences). I would bet if you did the fist pitch on TR or went back and led it again you would call it 5.4 :) Aug 17, 2016
Ted Pinson
Chicago, IL
 
Ted Pinson   Chicago, IL
 
Finally did this thing...wow, that first pitch is an unprotected sketchy sandbag! I'd almost go so far as to call the route PG-13 for the first pitch, as I found myself doing the traverse rather high above my last piece but not particularly high off the ground. The juggy flake is nice for hands but the face below is rather blank...I found some very marginal footholds that were not particularly inspiring, making it hard to put any pro in during the traverse until you get up around the corner. Not what I would call 5.4 moves, even by Devil's Lake standards...

The second pitch was very nice and felt like 5.4, though. I just would be forewarned: don't do this thing if you're a new leader. I did this after Brinton's (5.6) and it felt much scarier... Aug 17, 2016
Joel Allen
La Crosse, WI
  5.4
Joel Allen   La Crosse, WI
  5.4
If you do it in 2 pitches they are going to be VERY short, like 25 foot pitches. I personally have never had a problem with rope drag doing it in one pitch if I extend all my gear. Also Id suggest doing condolences, the 5.7 start to this route. It's better and protects better IMO.

Also finish on the upper part of congratulations for more fun, only 5.7.

Have fun! Its a nice route. Oct 22, 2015
Ted Pinson
Chicago, IL
 
Ted Pinson   Chicago, IL
 
Anyone know the length on this thing? Most of the routes on Pedestal are 50 ft, so that would make these really short pitches if you split it in 2... Oct 22, 2015
Joel Allen
La Crosse, WI
  5.4
Joel Allen   La Crosse, WI
  5.4
I like to finish this on congrats. Much more fun way to end a great route! Aug 13, 2015
James Schroeder
Sauk County, WI
  5.4
James Schroeder   Sauk County, WI  
  5.4
That's a good week! Mar 28, 2014
Doug Hemken
Madison, WI
Doug Hemken   Madison, WI  
I think it would count as one route! Ha, thought you had me!

Imagine the Challenge at Red Rock or Yosemite. I did ~70 pitches last week ... but only 7 routes. Mar 28, 2014
James Schroeder
Sauk County, WI
  5.4
James Schroeder   Sauk County, WI  
  5.4
So Doug, would it count as one or two pitches for the Century Challenge?

:-) Mar 28, 2014
Doug Hemken
Madison, WI
Doug Hemken   Madison, WI  
I'd do it either way, depending on what experience I'm after. Great little belay in the alcove/crow's nest. Or do it in one pitch and manage your pro so that there isn't rope drag. Mar 28, 2014
James Schroeder
Sauk County, WI
  5.4
James Schroeder   Sauk County, WI  
  5.4
It seems like doing this in one pitch would create more rope-drag hassle than setting up a belay in the middle. Mar 28, 2014
Jay Knower
Campton, NH
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
If you climb it as one pitch, you miss the best belay ledge at DL! This has always been considered a two-pitch climb. Mar 28, 2014
Josh Olson
Durango, CO
Josh Olson   Durango, CO
I disagree, I climb it as one. Mar 23, 2014
James Schroeder
Sauk County, WI
  5.4
James Schroeder   Sauk County, WI  
  5.4
The "stats" on this need to be updated to reflect that it's a two-pitch route. Mar 23, 2014
BryanR
Madison, WI
BryanR   Madison, WI
Good multipitch practice as it is easy but not real straight forward. and the belay ledge for the second pitch is sweet. May 6, 2009