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Sometimes Left Side
5.11d YDS 7a French 24 Ewbanks VIII UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British
Avg: 3 from 9
votes
Routes in 05: Pedestal Buttress
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All The Way T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Angle of the Dangle T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Assume the Position T,TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Beginning, The T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Birch Tree Crack T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Blow-up T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Chimney's End T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Condolences T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Congratulations T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Creation Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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D.L.F.A T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Dog, The TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Dyslexia TR 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c |
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End Of The End, The TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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End, The T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Evelyn Bites The Crust TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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F4 Ledges T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Flake Route T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 |
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Golden Ledges T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Hourglass T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Hourglass Direct TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Ironmongers T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Ironmongers Super Direct T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Lethe T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Lower Diagonal T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Modern Art TR 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Pedestal, The T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Pete's Lament TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Pine Box T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Rich and Famous TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Sometime Crack T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Sometime Direct T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R |
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Sometimes Left Side TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Sometimes Right T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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Stretcher, The TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Sweatshop T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Upper Diagonal T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Welfare Line TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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| Type: | TR, 50 ft (15 m) |
| FA: | First lead Kris Gorny 2011 |
| Page Views: | 1,822 total · 8/month |
| Shared By: | Jay Knower on Aug 9, 2005 |
| Admins: | Ian CB, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, chris tregge |
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Description
Start as for Sometimes and surmount the pillar. Here the wall steepens, and you have the choice moving right into Sometimes Crack, or moving left onto the steep face.
To start the Left Side, gain a sloping ledge and launch into the crux of the route. Expect powerful moves off crimps and sidepuls, culminating with a lunge to the prominent horizontal break. Smile to yourself after you stick the lunge, since you just dispensed with the V3 crux move.
You are not out of the woods yet, as you still must negotiate the Sometimes Direct crux. Ignore the pump, because you have the Direct crux wired anyway. You had better have the crux wired, you poor, pumped, sketching climber, or you are in for a tough fight.
To start the Left Side, gain a sloping ledge and launch into the crux of the route. Expect powerful moves off crimps and sidepuls, culminating with a lunge to the prominent horizontal break. Smile to yourself after you stick the lunge, since you just dispensed with the V3 crux move.
You are not out of the woods yet, as you still must negotiate the Sometimes Direct crux. Ignore the pump, because you have the Direct crux wired anyway. You had better have the crux wired, you poor, pumped, sketching climber, or you are in for a tough fight.
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