Type: Trad, TR, 50 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 210 total · 3/month
Shared By: Tony Brengosz on Jul 10, 2012
Admins: Burton Lindquist, Doug Hemken, chris tregge, James Schroeder

You & This Route


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Description

Climb the face 5 feet left of Ironmongers. Sven says that everything except the corner is on, but I found the grade to be accurate only if you stay on the face and don't use any holds in or to the right of the crack on Ironmongers.

Protection

Within reach on Ironmongers?

Photos

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CCas
Chicago, IL
CCas   Chicago, IL
I climbed this today and couldn't tell what line this route actually followed... if you wonder up and left of the large vertical crack that you traverse (climbers left) to on Iron Mongers you are in Evelyn Bites the Crust and obviously you cannot use the aforementioned large crack or it would certainly not warrant this grade. That or the climb is entirely the initial 20'...

I am assuming that means you have to stay in the roughly 6' wide area of face between the corner and the Iron Mongers crack? That said, where does the corner technically start? At the beginning of the alcove on Iron Mongers and can you use the vertical crack that is below it and eventually forms the corner?

Stupid questions, but I am kinda a "route purest" and any beta from someone who is familiar with the route would be appreciated? Jul 20, 2014
Terry Kieck
Baraboo
Terry Kieck   Baraboo
Its been a few years since I have been on Super-direct but I recall it is very contrived. Only the face left of the corner is "on". Go straight up to the join ironmongers. The business of the route is probably only the first 20 feet you mentioned until it reaches the regular route. Jul 23, 2014
CCas
Chicago, IL
CCas   Chicago, IL
Perfect... thax Terry. Appreciate it. Jul 23, 2014