Type: Trad, TR, 50 ft (15 m)
FA: Sheldon Smith, ground up 1966
Page Views: 482 total · 5/month
Shared By: Tony Brengosz on Jul 10, 2012
Admins: Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, chris tregge

You & This Route


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Description

This is the face 5 feet left of Ironmongers.  Sven says that everything except the corner is on, but I found the grade to be accurate only if you stay on the face and don't use any holds in or to the right of the crack on Ironmongers.

A bit of history and clarity from Jim Erickson:

"This 20-foot, very contrived boulder problem was, in 1966, the hardest lead at the Lake. It was done by Sheldon Smith ground up, placing 2 soft iron, knife blades in the first ten feet with no chalk in a pair of Spider kletterschuhe. He didn't fall, but lowered off once after pounding in the first pin. He then went back up, placed the second one and sent. None of us could follow, despite many attempts. It goes straight up the thin crack to the bucket on Ironmonger's. Within reach, but not allowed, are the huge right arete side- pull and 2 fairly good edges within 6 inches of the arete. A year later, the amazing Tom Higgins easily top-roped it on his first try, chalkless in a pair of Kronhofers! It took me about 15 tries to top rope it over the next 4 years "

Protection

Within reach on Ironmongers?

Photos