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Routes in Pedestal Buttress

All The Way T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Angle of the Dangle T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Assume the Position T,TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Beginning, The T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Birch Tree Crack T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Blow-up T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Chimney's End T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Condolences T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Congratulations T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Creation Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
D.L.F.A T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Dog, The TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Dyslexia TR 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
End Of The End, The TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
End, The T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Evelyn Bites The Crust TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
F4 Ledges T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Flake Route T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Golden Ledges T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Hourglass T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Hourglass Direct TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Ironmongers T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Ironmongers Super Direct T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Lethe T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Lower Diagonal T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Modern Art TR 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Pedestal, The T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Pete's Lament TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Pine Box T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rich and Famous TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Sometime Crack T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sometime Direct T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Sometimes Left Side TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Sometimes Right T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Stretcher, The TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Sweatshop T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Upper Diagonal T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Welfare Line TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: See comments below-- ? Kurt "Hard Rock" Krueger, October 1984
Page Views: 4,150 total, 21/month
Shared By: Chris treggE on Dec 31, 2001
Admins: Burt Lindquist, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

You & This Route


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Description

A superb climb. Start same as Sometime Crack but at the niche half way up, continue straight up the face instead of angling to the right. The holds are good on the face, until the last move...

Protection

Runout on the top section. Well protected down low. The route is overhanging, so a fall from high would most likely be clean. I left it as "R" for the description as originally posted, but some might argue "PG13"-- just have fun and be safe.
Kurt HR Krueger
Missoula, MT
Kurt HR Krueger   Missoula, MT
Don't think I had many cams when I led it or if I did it may have been fix stem friends and nothing small. I will also mention in the DLFA film the climb of Brinton's Crack showing the beer keg was done on all nuts - no cams. I notice some talk about TR clusters on top of climbs. I wasn't up on top but I was told it was quite a mess (not to mention people just lower water bottles to get beer rather than rap down). May 22, 2017
Ian CB
 
Ian CB  
 
My buddy Baker lead this thing the other day for his second trad lead ever. Very cool. This climb is great by the way and I think the fall is clean and if you double up the last pro (we used a green and blue alien) it is super solid. Jun 25, 2012
Tom Mulholland
#1 Cheese Producing State!
  5.10d PG13
Tom Mulholland   #1 Cheese Producing State!
  5.10d PG13
One of the most fun falls I've ever taken. Jan 11, 2012
Andy Hansen
Longmont, Colorado
Andy Hansen   Longmont, Colorado
Josh, I feel you. Nice lead- that's what counts. Also, it's been rumored to be a member of the DLFA you have to chug a malted beverage while doing a handstand- naked. Dec 30, 2011
Josh Knapp
East Troy, Wisconsin
  5.10d R
Josh Knapp   East Troy, Wisconsin
  5.10d R
Strong, I don't think that I have earned the right to use the DLFA's tag-line yet, as I am a relative gumby at the Lake. I hope to someday consider my self worthy! Having said that, what does is take to be an honorable member of the DLFA?

Rhodes, you are right. I good belay goes a LONG way! Dec 30, 2011
Tradiban  
 
This was my first hard lead at the lake. I was up with Nick Adams and decided that I wanted to fuckin' do it. I think Nick was skeptical at the time but when it was done we were both psyched. It was an eye-opening experience to what could be accomplished at DL for myself.

I think the debate between PG-13 and R for this route reveals a little about the importance of a good belay. I saw Tom M fall from the last crimps in the horizontal and like I said above it was a clean fall. However, his belay had a lot to do with this. Josh took in a good yank of rope and sat down to keep Tom off the ledge. Falling from the mantle would allow for a few more feet of travel but with only a step or two backwards by the belayor the climber would still not hit the ledge.

Also, and this has happened to me in the gym often and outside a few times, when the line goes tight the climber falling slows down very quickly. Meaning, when they reach the ground they aren't traveling very fast even though it may look that way. We demo'd this often to amazed kiddos in the gym by taking huge whips onto the floor but miraculously surviving every time ;)

Regardless, at DL try not to fall on anything, there a few routes with good pro most the way and there's always stuff to smack into on the way down. Dec 30, 2011
Ryan Strong
Golden, CO
Ryan Strong   Golden, CO
Peace and fukness* Dec 30, 2011
Josh Knapp
East Troy, Wisconsin
  5.10d R
Josh Knapp   East Troy, Wisconsin
  5.10d R
Thanx Andy! Just like all of this climbing nonsense everything is subjective. I think this climb walks a fine line between PG 13 and R. I could see it going either way depending on what your strengths are as a climber. It's tough for me to admit but I use to spend most of my time bouldering and thus had no problem with the mantel. However, if you were to blow the mantel one has a pretty good (50/50) chance of hitting the slab at the bottom which would likely result in a leg injury. I say to each his own and I'm not really hung up on PG13/R or 5.10 C/D/E. Grades are just a loose guide as to what to expect and are subject to much individual interpretation. So I say let consensus rule (great thing about Mountain Project!) but individual experience may vary!

Peace

On a another note, what do you think about British E grades? They would work quite well at Devil's Lake. Dec 30, 2011
Andy Hansen
Longmont, Colorado
Andy Hansen   Longmont, Colorado
Nice send, Josh. That's one route I've always wanted to lead. However, isn't every route "G" rated if you don't fall? I guess what I'm saying is that "R" and "PG13" ratings can't really have stipulations like you've stated, you know? They are either dangerous or not, right? Dec 30, 2011
Josh Knapp
East Troy, Wisconsin
  5.10d R
Josh Knapp   East Troy, Wisconsin
  5.10d R
Great climb! Would have never guessed I would have got the send on the 26th of Dec! However, I nearly took the whip from the crux as my fingers were numb! I'd say R rated if you fall off the mantel, otherwise PG13. The mantel is pretty easy though, just don't fall! HA! Dec 29, 2011
Tradiban  
 
Tom M took the whip from the top moves and didn't really come close to hitting anything, more like PG-13 than R. May 9, 2011
Hard Rock
Missoula, MT
Hard Rock   Missoula, MT
Leo gave me credit for the FA in his guide but I remember the first time it was TR better. Scott Stewart was showing Steve Wunsch around. Steve went up for it with a big lunge. Scott who had a sore finger had to protect the DL climbing reputation so he went up. He repeated the lunge but his feet came off the wall. He swung out but was still hanging on. With the overhang he had one chance to stick it when he swung back in --- and he did. It took us a little while to get rid of the lunge so I don't think anyone else repeated it that day.

-Hard Rock Jun 27, 2007
Anonymous
  5.10d
Anonymous  
  5.10d
Did it on top rope. But prepare for a pump. Eat a lot jamming too.

The place on the photo at the top of the climb is not the main crux, but a tough pump too. May 5, 2004