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Routes in Pedestal Buttress

All The Way T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Angle of the Dangle T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Assume the Position T,TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Beginning, The T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Birch Tree Crack T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Blow-up T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Chimney's End T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Condolences T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Congratulations T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Creation Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
D.L.F.A T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Dog, The TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Dyslexia TR 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
End Of The End, The TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
End, The T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Evelyn Bites The Crust TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
F4 Ledges T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Flake Route T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Golden Ledges T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Hourglass T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Hourglass Direct TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Ironmongers T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Ironmongers Super Direct T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Lethe T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Lower Diagonal T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Modern Art TR 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Pedestal, The T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Pete's Lament TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Pine Box T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rich and Famous TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Sometime Crack T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sometime Direct T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Sometimes Left Side TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Sometimes Right T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Stretcher, The TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Sweatshop T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Upper Diagonal T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Welfare Line TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, TR, 50 ft
FA: Either Tommy Deutchler or Scott Stewart, depending on who ya ask
Page Views: 213 total, 1/month
Shared By: Steve Sangdahl on Mar 23, 2003
Admins: Burt Lindquist, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

You & This Route


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Description

This route is well worth doing whether ya lead it or toprope it. On the far left side of the Sometimes formation,by the chimney. Start off the block, or do the direct start.

Protection

Usual DL stuff, may be scary
Burt Lindquist
Madison, WI
Burt Lindquist   Madison, WI  
I remember wiggling that hold way back when I was 13 years old.... I am almost 50 now.... Oct 18, 2011
Tradiban
  5.10a X
Tradiban  
  5.10a X
Always been that way Remo. Oct 18, 2011
Remo
Madison, WI
 
Remo   Madison, WI
 
I forgot how fun this climb is! Has anyone else been on this recently? The good edge right below the large flake near the start is a bit loose and seems like it could blow. Has it always been like this? Oct 18, 2011
Tom Mulholland
#1 Cheese Producing State!
  5.10a R
Tom Mulholland   #1 Cheese Producing State!
  5.10a R
Ok, well if X is for suspect gear, then X it is! Aug 27, 2011
Tradiban
  5.10a X
Tradiban  
  5.10a X
I think this begs the question of what we consider "R" or "X". To me this route is undeniably "X" due to the placements that will probably pull if fallen on. Just cause the gear goes in doesn't mean it's worth anything.

See this old thread and continue the discussion if you feel the need: mountainproject.com/v/disti… Aug 27, 2011
Tom Mulholland
#1 Cheese Producing State!
  5.10a R
Tom Mulholland   #1 Cheese Producing State!
  5.10a R
I give it an R. You can place a good brassie once on top of the prow, which should protect the crux moves. A fall would be bad, but probably not to the ground. Ball Nuts work well behind a sketchy flake to protect? the last hard move. Aug 26, 2011
Tradiban
  5.10a X
Tradiban  
  5.10a X
"X" rated lead , I got in more than two pieces but they were all pretty sketchy. I did the direct, avoiding the block, I thought that was always normal route but Sven says otherwise.
A #1 Ballnut behind the horn at the lower crux, helped ease the nerves in that little awkward section. Then a decent micro cam, two Astro nuts in a shallow pocket, two more ball nuts up higher, one behind a hollow block.
Sven says "One's last lead at Devil's Lake?" Too bad he was wrong. Aug 26, 2009
Isaac Therneau
Rochester, MN
  5.10b R
Isaac Therneau   Rochester, MN
  5.10b R
A hard lead with scant pro. I only placed two pieces, the smallest ultra light nut and a mediocre blue alien. Oct 12, 2008
The hold has benn loose since the first time I climbed the end. Which was 30+ years ago. Sep 23, 2008
Jay Knower
Campton, NH
 
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
 
The hold in question has been loose for years. It may still go soon, but this is not new info. Aug 25, 2008
supercheetah  
 
There are two different ways to conquer the crux on this one. If you have the momentum going up into it, use it. If you are really good at crimping, there is a very small one you could use that's in the area near the right hand if you're coming up from the left. Aug 25, 2005