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Routes in Pedestal Buttress

All The Way T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Angle of the Dangle T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Assume the Position T,TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Beginning, The T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Birch Tree Crack T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Blow-up T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Chimney's End T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Condolences T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Congratulations T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Creation Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
D.L.F.A T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Dog, The TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Dyslexia TR 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
End Of The End, The TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
End, The T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Evelyn Bites The Crust TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
F4 Ledges T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Flake Route T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Golden Ledges T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Hourglass T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Hourglass Direct TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Ironmongers T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Ironmongers Super Direct T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Lethe T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Lower Diagonal T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Modern Art TR 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Pedestal, The T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Pete's Lament TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Pine Box T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rich and Famous TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Sometime Crack T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sometime Direct T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Sometimes Left Side TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Sometimes Right T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Stretcher, The TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Sweatshop T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Upper Diagonal T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Welfare Line TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: TR
FA: unknown
Page Views: 152 total, 1/month
Shared By: Jay Knower on Dec 6, 2006
Admins: Burt Lindquist, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

You & This Route


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Description

Hourglass Direct climbs the blank face just to the left of Birch Tree Crack. Though a far less asthetic variation starts by climbing to the alcove on Birch Tree and then moving left to the face, the direct version (starting right off the ledge) presents a more inspiring line.

Start on the ledge and look for the holds. Now, look closer. They are there, but they are very small. Pull up and go. This start is V4ish and is all about how hard you can pull on non-existent crimps. This is classic vertical, technical, nightmarish 5.12 DL climbing.

The holds get bigger, then smaller, and then bigger toward the top. Correct me if I'm wrong, but I think the route derives it's name by the "thinning" nature of the holds in the middle. Anyway, if you want to experience hard Devil's Lake crimping, here's your route.

Protection

Toprope. I would be surprised if this has been led without putting gear in Birch Tree.

Photos

There are blocks all over the base of the climb. Take your pick. The point is the direct start has a couple of hideously small holds off the deck which has you immediately aware that the clock is ticking; which I think is the point of the name. Sep 29, 2012
Dylan Colon
Eugene, OR
Dylan Colon   Eugene, OR
This may be because I want to have sent this, but I think that the blocks are on as long as you only use the ones that are truly left of the crack, and not the ones that are actually sticking out of the alcove. Since the blocks are really just a higher part of the starting ledge, eliminating them seems kind of arbitrary, especially since you need to use foot chips only a few inches above them. Thoughts? Jun 24, 2012
Tony Brengosz
  5.12a
Tony Brengosz  
  5.12a
I am so torn up about this, I just pitched a belated wobbler. Jun 18, 2012
Andy Hansen
Longmont, Colorado
Andy Hansen   Longmont, Colorado
I got tired of sucking at DL so I moved to suck elsewhere. It never gets old. Jun 18, 2012
Sven says "Move left and climb the face straight to the top". I believe this indicates the blocks are off? But who the hell knows!

I wouldn't get too torn up about it Tony, probably reachy. However, sometimes some chalking and scrubbing of microscopic bumps reveals how to levitate.

Yes, you also suck if you can't do it. Gotta get used to sucking at Devil Lake. Fuk'n brutal. Jun 17, 2012
Andy Hansen
Longmont, Colorado
Andy Hansen   Longmont, Colorado
If you couldn't do the moves without your feet on the block then you suck, Tony. Jun 17, 2012
Tony Brengosz
  5.12a
Tony Brengosz  
  5.12a
The blocks on the ledge are on for feet right? I couldn't figure a way to do it without using them. Jun 16, 2012
Zachary
 
Zachary  
 
We were just talking about how this route got its name... we think maybe it is because the route starts in the middle of the 2 cracks which kind of shape an hourglass feature in the rock...

but who knows why people name things sometimes... Sep 7, 2008