Type: TR
FA: unknown
Page Views: 451 total · 3/month
Shared By: Jay Knower on Dec 6, 2006
Admins: Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, chris tregge

You & This Route


8 Opinions

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Description

Hourglass Direct climbs the blank face just to the left of Birch Tree Crack. Though a far less asthetic variation starts by climbing to the alcove on Birch Tree and then moving left to the face, the direct version (starting right off the ledge) presents a more inspiring line.

Start on the ledge and look for the holds. Now, look closer. They are there, but they are very small. Pull up and go. This start is V4ish and is all about how hard you can pull on non-existent crimps. This is classic vertical, technical, nightmarish 5.12 DL climbing.

The holds get bigger, then smaller, and then bigger toward the top. Correct me if I'm wrong, but I think the route derives it's name by the "thinning" nature of the holds in the middle. Anyway, if you want to experience hard Devil's Lake crimping, here's your route.

Protection

Toprope. I would be surprised if this has been led without putting gear in Birch Tree.

Photos