Type: TR
FA: unknown
Page Views: 255 total · 2/month
Shared By: J Beta on Dec 6, 2006
Admins: Burton Lindquist, Doug Hemken, chris tregge, James Schroeder

You & This Route


8 Opinions

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Description

Hourglass Direct climbs the blank face just to the left of Birch Tree Crack. Though a far less asthetic variation starts by climbing to the alcove on Birch Tree and then moving left to the face, the direct version (starting right off the ledge) presents a more inspiring line.

Start on the ledge and look for the holds. Now, look closer. They are there, but they are very small. Pull up and go. This start is V4ish and is all about how hard you can pull on non-existent crimps. This is classic vertical, technical, nightmarish 5.12 DL climbing.

The holds get bigger, then smaller, and then bigger toward the top. Correct me if I'm wrong, but I think the route derives it's name by the "thinning" nature of the holds in the middle. Anyway, if you want to experience hard Devil's Lake crimping, here's your route.

Protection

Toprope. I would be surprised if this has been led without putting gear in Birch Tree.

Photos

Zachary
 
Zachary  
 
We were just talking about how this route got its name... we think maybe it is because the route starts in the middle of the 2 cracks which kind of shape an hourglass feature in the rock...

but who knows why people name things sometimes... Sep 7, 2008
Tony Brengosz
  5.12a
Tony Brengosz  
  5.12a
The blocks on the ledge are on for feet right? I couldn't figure a way to do it without using them. Jun 16, 2012
Andy Hansen
Longmont, CO
Andy Hansen   Longmont, CO
If you couldn't do the moves without your feet on the block then you suck, Tony. Jun 17, 2012
Sven says "Move left and climb the face straight to the top". I believe this indicates the blocks are off? But who the hell knows!

I wouldn't get too torn up about it Tony, probably reachy. However, sometimes some chalking and scrubbing of microscopic bumps reveals how to levitate.

Yes, you also suck if you can't do it. Gotta get used to sucking at Devil Lake. Fuk'n brutal. Jun 17, 2012
Andy Hansen
Longmont, CO
Andy Hansen   Longmont, CO
I got tired of sucking at DL so I moved to suck elsewhere. It never gets old. Jun 18, 2012
Tony Brengosz
  5.12a
Tony Brengosz  
  5.12a
I am so torn up about this, I just pitched a belated wobbler. Jun 18, 2012
Dylan Colon
Eugene, OR
Dylan Colon   Eugene, OR
This may be because I want to have sent this, but I think that the blocks are on as long as you only use the ones that are truly left of the crack, and not the ones that are actually sticking out of the alcove. Since the blocks are really just a higher part of the starting ledge, eliminating them seems kind of arbitrary, especially since you need to use foot chips only a few inches above them. Thoughts? Jun 24, 2012
There are blocks all over the base of the climb. Take your pick. The point is the direct start has a couple of hideously small holds off the deck which has you immediately aware that the clock is ticking; which I think is the point of the name. Sep 29, 2012