Elevation: 1,470 ft
GPS: 43.41393, -89.71374
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 524,355 total · 2,059/month
Shared By: Doug Hemken on Mar 4, 2002
Admins: Ian CB, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, chris tregge

Description

The East Rampart is the most popular climbing area at Devil's Lake. It is a quarter-mile long cliff band containing the highest concentration of climbs at the park. This may or may not be a good thing, depending on how many people you like around you when you climb. The area undoubtedly contains some of the finest climbs at the Lake, and the climbs are generally long (some over 100 feet) and exposed. You are apt to find that no matter how early you've come to climb that famous route someone else has already claimed it. But rest assured, there are plenty of other classics to choose from in the event you arrived a little too late. You'd be crazy to avoid the area solely because of the crowds. This is, after all, the most popular climbing area at the park for a reason.

The areas included here in the East Rampart, from East to West (right to left), are:

No Sweat
Guillotine Wall
Guillotine
The Monster

D'Arcy's Buttress (Cemetary Wall to Darkness at Noon)
Pedestal Buttress (incl. Sometime, Campus Wall) (Sometime Right Side to Lethe)
Gill's Buttress (Twin Cracks to Boy Scout)
Brinton's Buttress (Rubber Man to Puff'n'Grunt Chimney)
Two Pines Buttress (incl. Mouse Wall) (The Rack to Hypoglycemia)
Many Pines (Buttress (incl. Peter's, Flatus) (Anemia to Algae)
V8 Tower
Moldy Buttress (incl. Minus Wall) (Lichen to Roofus)
Bill's Buttress (Dogleg to The Outhouse)
Rainy Wednesday Tower
Green Bulge (Out of the Woods to Hirsute)
Bedroom Wall (Cerebration to Foreplay)

Four Brothers

Leaning Tower
Tombstone Wall

Pseudo Hawks Nest (Wild Horses to Anchor's Away)
Balshazzar's Feast
Hawk's Nest (Renal Exam to Land's End)

Getting There

To get to the East Rampart park at the CCC parking lot and cross the road to pick up the CCC hiking trail. The trail consists of rock steps that climb through the woods and up the talus field for a good 15-30 minute hike. When you get to "The Monster", a 20 foot wall, take a left at the "T" in the trail until you get to the "Pedestal Buttress". At this point, you can turn right and around D'Arcy's Buttress to access the top of the cliff (and many access gullies) or you can go left to access the bottom of the cliff. Go right only if your climb is located at "Many Pines Buttress" or east. If your climb is west of there, take the upper trail and descend to the base of the climb via the "Leaning Tower" gully.

290 Total Climbs

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Location: East Bluff 04 - East Rampart Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at East Bluff 04 - East Rampart

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 366
Brinton's Crack
Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 230
Peter's Project
Trad, TR
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 105
Charybdis
Trad, TR
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 284
Birch Tree Crack
Trad, TR
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 111
Brinton's Direct
Trad, TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 255
Upper Diagonal
Trad, TR
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 126
The Stretcher
TR
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 82
Breakfast of Champions
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 173
Congratulations
Trad, TR
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 154
Sometime Crack
Trad, TR
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
 123
Mouse's Misery
Trad, TR
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 153
Cheatah
Trad, TR
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
 86
Flake Route
Trad, TR
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
 77
Sometime Direct
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 119
Thoroughfare
Trad, TR
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Brinton's Crack 07: Brinton's Buttress
 366
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad
Peter's Project 09: Many Pines Buttress
 230
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, TR
Charybdis 17: Hawk's Nest
 105
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, TR
Birch Tree Crack 05: Pedestal Buttress
 284
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, TR
Brinton's Direct 07: Brinton's Buttress
 111
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, TR
Upper Diagonal 05: Pedestal Buttress
 255
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, TR
The Stretcher 05: Pedestal Buttress
 126
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a TR
Breakfast of Champions 11: Bill's Buttress
 82
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
Congratulations 05: Pedestal Buttress
 173
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad, TR
Sometime Crack 05: Pedestal Buttress
 154
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad, TR
Mouse's Misery 08: Two Pines Buttress
 123
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R Trad, TR
Cheatah 11: Bill's Buttress
 153
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, TR
Flake Route 05: Pedestal Buttress
 86
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 Trad, TR
Sometime Direct 05: Pedestal Buttress
 77
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R Trad
Thoroughfare 08: Two Pines Buttress
 119
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad, TR
More Classic Climbs in East Bluff 04 - East Rampart »

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