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Elevation: 1,470 ft 448 m
GPS: 43.41393, -89.71374
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
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Shared By: Doug Hemken on Mar 4, 2002
Admins: Ian Cotter-Brown, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, chris tregge, Ben Strobel, Kyle Harding

Description Suggest change

The East Rampart is the most popular climbing area at Devil's Lake. It is a quarter-mile long cliff band containing the highest concentration of climbs at the park. This may or may not be a good thing, depending on how many people you like around you when you climb. The area undoubtedly contains some of the finest climbs at the Lake, and the climbs are generally long (some over 100 feet) and exposed. You are apt to find that no matter how early you've come to climb that famous route someone else has already claimed it. But rest assured, there are plenty of other classics to choose from in the event you arrived a little too late. You'd be crazy to avoid the area solely because of the crowds. This is, after all, the most popular climbing area at the park for a reason.

The areas included here in the East Rampart, from East to West (right to left), are:

No Sweat
Guillotine Wall
Guillotine
The Monster

D'Arcy's Buttress (Cemetary Wall to Darkness at Noon)
Pedestal Buttress (incl. Sometime, Campus Wall) (Sometime Right Side to Lethe)
Gill's Buttress (Twin Cracks to Boy Scout)
Brinton's Buttress (Rubber Man to Puff'n'Grunt Chimney)
Two Pines Buttress (incl. Mouse Wall) (The Rack to Hypoglycemia)
Many Pines (Buttress (incl. Peter's, Flatus) (Anemia to Algae)
V8 Tower
Moldy Buttress (incl. Minus Wall) (Lichen to Roofus)
Bill's Buttress (Dogleg to The Outhouse)
Rainy Wednesday Tower
Green Bulge (Out of the Woods to Hirsute)
Bedroom Wall (Cerebration to Foreplay)

Four Brothers

Leaning Tower
Tombstone Wall

Pseudo Hawks Nest (Wild Horses to Anchor's Away)
Balshazzar's Feast
Hawk's Nest (Renal Exam to Land's End)

Getting There Suggest change

To get to the East Rampart park at the CCC parking lot and cross the road to pick up the CCC hiking trail. The trail consists of rock steps that climb through the woods and up the talus field for a good 15-30 minute hike. When you get to "The Monster", a 20 foot wall, take a left at the "T" in the trail until you get to the "Pedestal Buttress". At this point, you can turn right and around D'Arcy's Buttress to access the top of the cliff (and many access gullies) or you can go left to access the bottom of the cliff. Go right only if your climb is located at "Many Pines Buttress" or east. If your climb is west of there, take the upper trail and descend to the base of the climb via the "Leaning Tower" gully.

290 Total Climbs

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Location: East Bluff 04 - East Rampart Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at East Bluff 04 - East Rampart

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 397
Brinton's Crack
Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 250
Peter's Project
Trad, TR
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 111
Charybdis
Trad, TR
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 123
Brinton's Direct
Trad, TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 271
Upper Diagonal
Trad, TR
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 139
The Stretcher
TR
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 88
Breakfast of Champions
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 187
Congratulations
Trad, TR
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 167
Sometime Crack
Trad, TR
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 165
Cheatah
Trad, TR
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
 101
Flake Route
Trad, TR
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
 62
Alpha Centauri
Trad
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
 83
Sometime Direct
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 134
Thoroughfare
Trad, TR
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 57
Acid Rock
TR
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Brinton's Crack 07: Brinton's Buttress
 397
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad
Peter's Project 09: Many Pines Buttress
 250
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, TR
Charybdis 17: Hawk's Nest
 111
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, TR
Brinton's Direct 07: Brinton's Buttress
 123
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, TR
Upper Diagonal 05: Pedestal Buttress
 271
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, TR
The Stretcher 05: Pedestal Buttress
 139
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a TR
Breakfast of Champions 11: Bill's Buttress
 88
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
Congratulations 05: Pedestal Buttress
 187
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad, TR
Sometime Crack 05: Pedestal Buttress
 167
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad, TR
Cheatah 11: Bill's Buttress
 165
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, TR
Flake Route 05: Pedestal Buttress
 101
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 Trad, TR
Alpha Centauri 17: Hawk's Nest
 62
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R Trad
Sometime Direct 05: Pedestal Buttress
 83
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R Trad
Thoroughfare 08: Two Pines Buttress
 134
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad, TR
Acid Rock 06: Gill's Buttress
 57
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a TR
More Classic Climbs in East Bluff 04 - East Rampart »

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