Elevation: 1,470 ft
GPS: 43.414, -89.714 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 228,065 total · 1,117/month
Shared By: Doug Hemken on Mar 4, 2002
Admins: Burton Lindquist, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, chris tregge
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Description

The East Rampart is the most popular climbing area at Devil's Lake. It is a quarter-mile long cliff band containing the highest concentration of climbs at the park. This may or may not be a good thing, depending on how many people you like around you when you climb. The area undoubtedly contains some of the finest climbs at the Lake, and the climbs are generally long (some over 100 feet) and exposed. You are apt to find that no matter how early you've come to climb that famous route someone else has already claimed it. But rest assured, there are plenty of other classics to choose from in the event you arrived a little too late. You'd be crazy to avoid the area solely because of the crowds. This is, after all, the most popular climbing area at the park for a reason.

The areas included here in the East Rampart, from East to West (right to left), are:

No Sweat
Guillotine Wall
Guillotine
The Monster

D'Arcy's Buttress (Cemetary Wall to Darkness at Noon)
Pedestal Buttress (incl. Sometime, Campus Wall) (Sometime Right Side to Lethe)
Gill's Buttress (Twin Cracks to Boy Scout)
Brinton's Buttress (Rubber Man to Puff'n'Grunt Chimney)
Two Pines Buttress (incl. Mouse Wall) (The Rack to Hypoglycemia)
Many Pines (Buttress (incl. Peter's, Flatus) (Anemia to Algae)
V8 Tower
Moldy Buttress (incl. Minus Wall) (Lichen to Roofus)
Bill's Buttress (Dogleg to The Outhouse)
Rainy Wednesday Tower
Green Bulge (Out of the Woods to Hirsute)
Bedroom Wall (Cerebration to Foreplay)

Four Brothers

Leaning Tower
Tombstone Wall

Pseudo Hawks Nest (Wild Horses to Anchor's Away)
Balshazzar's Feast
Hawk's Nest (Renal Exam to Land's End)

Getting There

To get to the East Rampart park at the CCC parking lot and cross the road to pick up the CCC hiking trail. The trail consists of rock steps that climb through the woods and up the talus field for a good 15-30 minute hike. When you get to "The Monster", a 20 foot wall, take a left at the "T" in the trail until you get to the "Pedestal Buttress". At this point, you can turn right and around D'Arcy's Buttress to access the top of the cliff (and many access gullies) or you can go left to access the bottom of the cliff. Go right only if your climb is located at "Many Pines Buttress" or east. If your climb is west of there, take the upper trail and descend to the base of the climb via the "Leaning Tower" gully.

275 Total Climbs

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Location: East Bluff 04 - East Rampart Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at East Bluff 04 - East Rampart

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
 102
Double Overhang
Trad, TR
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 276
Brinton's Crack
Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 176
Peter's Project
Trad, TR
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 77
Charybdis
Trad, TR
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 221
Birch Tree Crack
Trad, TR
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 109
Orgasm
Trad, TR
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 75
Brinton's Direct
Trad, TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 189
Upper Diagonal
Trad, TR
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 94
The Stretcher
TR
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 125
Congratulations
Trad, TR
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 119
Sometime Crack
Trad, TR
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
 91
Mouse's Misery
Trad, TR
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 111
Cheatah
Trad, TR
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
 69
Flake Route
Trad, TR
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 86
Thoroughfare
Trad, TR
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Double Overhang 12: Rainy Wednesday T…
 102
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Trad, TR
Brinton's Crack 07: Brinton's Buttress
 276
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad
Peter's Project 09: Many Pines Buttress
 176
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, TR
Charybdis 17: Hawk's Nest
 77
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, TR
Birch Tree Crack 05: Pedestal Buttress
 221
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, TR
Orgasm 12: Rainy Wednesday T…
 109
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, TR
Brinton's Direct 07: Brinton's Buttress
 75
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, TR
Upper Diagonal 05: Pedestal Buttress
 189
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, TR
The Stretcher 05: Pedestal Buttress
 94
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a TR
Congratulations 05: Pedestal Buttress
 125
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad, TR
Sometime Crack 05: Pedestal Buttress
 119
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad, TR
Mouse's Misery 08: Two Pines Buttress
 91
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R Trad, TR
Cheatah 11: Bill's Buttress
 111
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, TR
Flake Route 05: Pedestal Buttress
 69
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 Trad, TR
Thoroughfare 08: Two Pines Buttress
 86
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad, TR
More Classic Climbs in East Bluff 04 - East Rampart »

Weather Averages

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Days w Precip
 
Prime Climbing Season
J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D
I used to think this hike was long and hard until I moved to Colorado. Tom - Great work on the site. I learned to climb at the lake and have moved on to bigger things, but I'll be back some day and will use the site often then. Keep it up! Mark Morehouse Apr 24, 2002
Steve Sangdahl
eldo sprngs,co
Steve Sangdahl   eldo sprngs,co
this area is one of the best places to climb at dl as proven by it having been worked to death by decades of midwest climbers.it is a great place to pull down whether you top-rope or lead.there are scores of 3 star routes to climb. lets be careful out there! Mar 31, 2005
Remo
Madison, WI
Remo   Madison, WI
I heard rumors that the "Bounty Route" was sent this summer. Can anyone confirm? Sep 1, 2018
Bullshit Remo!!!!!!!!! Sep 1, 2018
I thought the whole joke of the Bounty Route was that it was impossible. Also I heard that Jim is in a nursing home now. Sep 3, 2018