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East Bluff 04 - East Rampart Rock Climbing
| Elevation: | 1,470 ft |
| GPS: |
43.41393, -89.71374 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
| Page Views: | 524,355 total · 2,026/month |
| Shared By: | Doug Hemken on Mar 4, 2002 |
| Admins: | Ian CB, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, chris tregge |
Description
The East Rampart is the most popular climbing area at Devil's Lake. It is a quarter-mile long cliff band containing the highest concentration of climbs at the park. This may or may not be a good thing, depending on how many people you like around you when you climb. The area undoubtedly contains some of the finest climbs at the Lake, and the climbs are generally long (some over 100 feet) and exposed. You are apt to find that no matter how early you've come to climb that famous route someone else has already claimed it. But rest assured, there are plenty of other classics to choose from in the event you arrived a little too late. You'd be crazy to avoid the area solely because of the crowds. This is, after all, the most popular climbing area at the park for a reason.
The areas included here in the East Rampart, from East to West (right to left), are:
No Sweat
Guillotine Wall
Guillotine
The Monster
D'Arcy's Buttress (Cemetary Wall to Darkness at Noon)
Pedestal Buttress (incl. Sometime, Campus Wall) (Sometime Right Side to Lethe)
Gill's Buttress (Twin Cracks to Boy Scout)
Brinton's Buttress (Rubber Man to Puff'n'Grunt Chimney)
Two Pines Buttress (incl. Mouse Wall) (The Rack to Hypoglycemia)
Many Pines (Buttress (incl. Peter's, Flatus) (Anemia to Algae)
V8 Tower
Moldy Buttress (incl. Minus Wall) (Lichen to Roofus)
Bill's Buttress (Dogleg to The Outhouse)
Rainy Wednesday Tower
Green Bulge (Out of the Woods to Hirsute)
Bedroom Wall (Cerebration to Foreplay)
Four Brothers
Leaning Tower
Tombstone Wall
Pseudo Hawks Nest (Wild Horses to Anchor's Away)
Balshazzar's Feast
Hawk's Nest (Renal Exam to Land's End)
The areas included here in the East Rampart, from East to West (right to left), are:
No Sweat
Guillotine Wall
Guillotine
The Monster
D'Arcy's Buttress (Cemetary Wall to Darkness at Noon)
Pedestal Buttress (incl. Sometime, Campus Wall) (Sometime Right Side to Lethe)
Gill's Buttress (Twin Cracks to Boy Scout)
Brinton's Buttress (Rubber Man to Puff'n'Grunt Chimney)
Two Pines Buttress (incl. Mouse Wall) (The Rack to Hypoglycemia)
Many Pines (Buttress (incl. Peter's, Flatus) (Anemia to Algae)
V8 Tower
Moldy Buttress (incl. Minus Wall) (Lichen to Roofus)
Bill's Buttress (Dogleg to The Outhouse)
Rainy Wednesday Tower
Green Bulge (Out of the Woods to Hirsute)
Bedroom Wall (Cerebration to Foreplay)
Four Brothers
Leaning Tower
Tombstone Wall
Pseudo Hawks Nest (Wild Horses to Anchor's Away)
Balshazzar's Feast
Hawk's Nest (Renal Exam to Land's End)
Getting There
To get to the East Rampart park at the CCC parking lot and cross the road to pick up the CCC hiking trail. The trail consists of rock steps that climb through the woods and up the talus field for a good 15-30 minute hike. When you get to "The Monster", a 20 foot wall, take a left at the "T" in the trail until you get to the "Pedestal Buttress". At this point, you can turn right and around D'Arcy's Buttress to access the top of the cliff (and many access gullies) or you can go left to access the bottom of the cliff. Go right only if your climb is located at "Many Pines Buttress" or east. If your climb is west of there, take the upper trail and descend to the base of the climb via the "Leaning Tower" gully.
Classic Climbing Routes at East Bluff 04 - East Rampart
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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