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Areas in East Bluff 04 - East Rampart

Balshazzar's Feast 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0
Bill's Buttress 15 / 0 / 16 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 18
Brinton's Buttress 13 / 0 / 13 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 17
D'Arcy's Buttress 9 / 0 / 10 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 12
Four Brothers 5 / 0 / 6 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 6
Gill's Buttress 6 / 0 / 16 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 17
Guillotine, The 13 / 0 / 13 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 18
Hawk's Nest 18 / 0 / 15 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 23
Leaning Tower 5 / 0 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 5
Many Pines Buttress 20 / 0 / 17 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 22
Moldy Buttress 9 / 0 / 9 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 13
Monster, The 4 / 0 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4
No Sweat 4 / 0 / 5 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 6
Pedestal Buttress 27 / 0 / 27 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 38
Pseudo Hawk's Nest 21 / 0 / 23 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 26
Rainy Wednesday Tower 18 / 0 / 21 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 26
Two Pines Buttress 19 / 0 / 19 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 21

Description

The East Rampart is the most popular climbing area at Devil's Lake. It is a quarter-mile long cliff band containing the highest concentration of climbs at the park. This may or may not be a good thing, depending on how many people you like around you when you climb. The area undoubtedly contains some of the finest climbs at the Lake, and the climbs are generally long (some over 100 feet) and exposed. You are apt to find that no matter how early you've come to climb that famous route someone else has already claimed it. But rest assured, there are plenty of other classics to choose from in the event you arrived a little too late. You'd be crazy to avoid the area solely because of the crowds. This is, after all, the most popular climbing area at the park for a reason.

The areas included here in the East Rampart, from East to West (right to left), are:

No Sweat
Guillotine Wall
Guillotine
The Monster

D'Arcy's Buttress (Cemetary Wall to Darkness at Noon)
Pedestal Buttress (incl. Sometime, Campus Wall) (Sometime Right Side to Lethe)
Gill's Buttress (Twin Cracks to Boy Scout)
Brinton's Buttress (Rubber Man to Puff'n'Grunt Chimney)
Two Pines Buttress (incl. Mouse Wall) (The Rack to Hypoglycemia)
Many Pines (Buttress (incl. Peter's, Flatus) (Anemia to Algae)
V8 Tower
Moldy Buttress (incl. Minus Wall) (Lichen to Roofus)
Bill's Buttress (Dogleg to The Outhouse)
Rainy Wednesday Tower
Green Bulge (Out of the Woods to Hirsute)
Bedroom Wall (Cerebration to Foreplay)

Four Brothers

Leaning Tower
Tombstone Wall

Pseudo Hawks Nest (Wild Horses to Anchor's Away)
Balshazzar's Feast
Hawk's Nest (Renal Exam to Land's End)

Getting There

To get to the East Rampart park at the CCC parking lot and cross the road to pick up the CCC hiking trail. The trail consists of rock steps that climb through the woods and up the talus field for a good 15-30 minute hike. When you get to "The Monster", a 20 foot wall, take a left at the "T" in the trail until you get to the "Pedestal Buttress". At this point, you can turn right and around D'Arcy's Buttress to access the top of the cliff (and many access gullies) or you can go left to access the bottom of the cliff. Go right only if your climb is located at "Many Pines Buttress" or east. If your climb is west of there, take the upper trail and descend to the base of the climb via the "Leaning Tower" gully.

272 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at East Bluff 04 - East Rampart

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
 88
Double Overhang
Trad, TR
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 254
Brinton's Crack
Trad
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 96
Coatimundi Crack
Trad, TR
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 99
Berkeley
Trad, TR
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 161
Peter's Project
Trad, TR
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 201
Birch Tree Crack
Trad, TR
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 98
Orgasm
Trad, TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 166
Upper Diagonal
Trad, TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
 104
Chicago
Trad, TR
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 87
The Stretcher
TR
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 111
Congratulations
Trad, TR
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 107
Sometime Crack
Trad, TR
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
 88
Mouse's Misery
Trad, TR
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 104
Cheatah
Trad, TR
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 93
Thoroughfare
Trad, TR
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Double Overhang Rainy Wednesday Tower
 88
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Trad, TR
Brinton's Crack Brinton's Buttress
 254
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad
Coatimundi Crack Bill's Buttress
 96
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad, TR
Berkeley Brinton's Buttress
 99
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad, TR
Peter's Project Many Pines Buttress
 161
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, TR
Birch Tree Crack Pedestal Buttress
 201
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, TR
Orgasm Rainy Wednesday Tower
 98
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, TR
Upper Diagonal Pedestal Buttress
 166
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, TR
Chicago Brinton's Buttress
 104
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R Trad, TR
The Stretcher Pedestal Buttress
 87
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a TR
Congratulations Pedestal Buttress
 111
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad, TR
Sometime Crack Pedestal Buttress
 107
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad, TR
Mouse's Misery Two Pines Buttress
 88
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R Trad, TR
Cheatah Bill's Buttress
 104
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, TR
Thoroughfare Two Pines Buttress
 93
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad, TR
More Classic Climbs in East Bluff 04 - East Rampart »

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J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D
I used to think this hike was long and hard until I moved to Colorado. Tom - Great work on the site. I learned to climb at the lake and have moved on to bigger things, but I'll be back some day and will use the site often then. Keep it up! Mark Morehouse Apr 24, 2002
Steve Sangdahl
eldo sprngs,co
Steve Sangdahl   eldo sprngs,co
this area is one of the best places to climb at dl as proven by it having been worked to death by decades of midwest climbers.it is a great place to pull down whether you top-rope or lead.there are scores of 3 star routes to climb. lets be careful out there! Mar 31, 2005

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