Elevation: 1,470 ft
GPS: 43.414, -89.714 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 420,345 total · 1,790/month
Shared By: Doug Hemken on Mar 4, 2002
Admins: Ian CB, James Schroeder, chris tregge, Doug Hemken

Description

The East Rampart is the most popular climbing area at Devil's Lake. It is a quarter-mile long cliff band containing the highest concentration of climbs at the park. This may or may not be a good thing, depending on how many people you like around you when you climb. The area undoubtedly contains some of the finest climbs at the Lake, and the climbs are generally long (some over 100 feet) and exposed. You are apt to find that no matter how early you've come to climb that famous route someone else has already claimed it. But rest assured, there are plenty of other classics to choose from in the event you arrived a little too late. You'd be crazy to avoid the area solely because of the crowds. This is, after all, the most popular climbing area at the park for a reason.

The areas included here in the East Rampart, from East to West (right to left), are:

No Sweat
Guillotine Wall
Guillotine
The Monster

D'Arcy's Buttress (Cemetary Wall to Darkness at Noon)
Pedestal Buttress (incl. Sometime, Campus Wall) (Sometime Right Side to Lethe)
Gill's Buttress (Twin Cracks to Boy Scout)
Brinton's Buttress (Rubber Man to Puff'n'Grunt Chimney)
Two Pines Buttress (incl. Mouse Wall) (The Rack to Hypoglycemia)
Many Pines (Buttress (incl. Peter's, Flatus) (Anemia to Algae)
V8 Tower
Moldy Buttress (incl. Minus Wall) (Lichen to Roofus)
Bill's Buttress (Dogleg to The Outhouse)
Rainy Wednesday Tower
Green Bulge (Out of the Woods to Hirsute)
Bedroom Wall (Cerebration to Foreplay)

Four Brothers

Leaning Tower
Tombstone Wall

Pseudo Hawks Nest (Wild Horses to Anchor's Away)
Balshazzar's Feast
Hawk's Nest (Renal Exam to Land's End)

Getting There

To get to the East Rampart park at the CCC parking lot and cross the road to pick up the CCC hiking trail. The trail consists of rock steps that climb through the woods and up the talus field for a good 15-30 minute hike. When you get to "The Monster", a 20 foot wall, take a left at the "T" in the trail until you get to the "Pedestal Buttress". At this point, you can turn right and around D'Arcy's Buttress to access the top of the cliff (and many access gullies) or you can go left to access the bottom of the cliff. Go right only if your climb is located at "Many Pines Buttress" or east. If your climb is west of there, take the upper trail and descend to the base of the climb via the "Leaning Tower" gully.

289 Total Climbs

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Location: East Bluff 04 - East Rampart Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at East Bluff 04 - East Rampart

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
 129
Double Overhang
Trad, TR
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 336
Brinton's Crack
Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 215
Peter's Project
Trad, TR
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 94
Charybdis
Trad, TR
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 263
Birch Tree Crack
Trad, TR
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 98
Brinton's Direct
Trad, TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 230
Upper Diagonal
Trad, TR
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 114
The Stretcher
TR
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 158
Congratulations
Trad, TR
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 140
Sometime Crack
Trad, TR
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
 114
Mouse's Misery
Trad, TR
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 137
Cheatah
Trad, TR
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
 81
Flake Route
Trad, TR
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
 69
Sometime Direct
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 103
Thoroughfare
Trad, TR
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Double Overhang 12: Rainy Wednesday T…
 129
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Trad, TR
Brinton's Crack 07: Brinton's Buttress
 336
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad
Peter's Project 09: Many Pines Buttress
 215
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, TR
Charybdis 17: Hawk's Nest
 94
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, TR
Birch Tree Crack 05: Pedestal Buttress
 263
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, TR
Brinton's Direct 07: Brinton's Buttress
 98
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, TR
Upper Diagonal 05: Pedestal Buttress
 230
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, TR
The Stretcher 05: Pedestal Buttress
 114
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a TR
Congratulations 05: Pedestal Buttress
 158
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad, TR
Sometime Crack 05: Pedestal Buttress
 140
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad, TR
Mouse's Misery 08: Two Pines Buttress
 114
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R Trad, TR
Cheatah 11: Bill's Buttress
 137
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, TR
Flake Route 05: Pedestal Buttress
 81
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 Trad, TR
Sometime Direct 05: Pedestal Buttress
 69
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R Trad
Thoroughfare 08: Two Pines Buttress
 103
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad, TR
More Classic Climbs in East Bluff 04 - East Rampart »

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