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Gill's Buttress Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in 06: Gill's Buttress

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	A Cleveland Route TR 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
	A-Frame (aka Uranus), The T,TR 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
	Acid Rock TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Blood Alcohol TR 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a
	Boy Scout T,TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
	Fantasy TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Gill's Cheek T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
	Gill's Crack T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Gill's Nose TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Gills Nose Direct T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a X
	Glutton for Punishment TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Ice TR 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
	In Search of the Lost Libido TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Peyote Blues TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Psilocybin TR 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
	Spine, The T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
	Twin Cracks T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
	Weasels Ripped My Flesh TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a X

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Elevation:	1,422 ft
GPS:	43.41364, -89.71275 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	36,074 total · 142/month
Shared By:	Jay Knower on May 14, 2002
Admins:	Ian CB, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, chris tregge Page Updates (admin only)

Description

Gill's Buttress might be the best spot on the East Rampart, though nearby Brinton's Buttress might give it a run for it's money. Gill's Buttress holds a higher density of hard climbs than any other wall at DL. Classics 5.12's such as Acid Rock and Peyote Blues ascend the perfectly sheer, perfectly vertical south face of the buttress. Notorious thin and nightmarishly technical 5.13's such as Ice and Psilocybin also grace this wall.

But, of course, the centerpiece of the buttress is Gill's Nose, an aptly named route with a colorful history and just enough pro to beckon some brave souls into a lead. Just to it's left, Gill's Crack holds its own history, and might be one of the best 5.10's at the Lake. But, as with every route on the buttress, it has a bit of a reputation.

Getting There

To find Gill's Buttress hike the CCC Trail to "T" in the trail at The Monster. Turn left at The Monster and continue up (northwest) until you reach a second "T". To get to the base of Gill's turn left and hike along the wall on the climber's trail. Gill's is about 80 feet west of the "T" in the trail at the Pedestal Buttress.

18 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Gill's Buttress

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.

5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a 92 ● Boy Scout Trad, TR
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c 53 ● The Spine Trad, TR
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a 10 ● Fantasy TR
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b 53 ● Gill's Crack Trad, TR
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a 46 ● Gill's Nose TR
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a X 8 ● Gills Nose Direct Trad, TR
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a 48 ● Acid Rock TR
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a 6 ● Glutton for Punishment TR
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R 5 ● Gill's Cheek Trad, TR
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b 11 ● Peyote Blues TR
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b 6 ● In Search of the Lost Libido TR