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Elevation: 1,422 ft 433 m
GPS: 43.41364, -89.71275
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
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Shared By: Jay Knower on May 14, 2002
Admins: Ian Cotter-Brown, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, chris tregge, Ben Strobel, Kyle Harding

Description Suggest change

Gill's Buttress might be the best spot on the East Rampart, though nearby Brinton's Buttress might give it a run for it's money. Gill's Buttress holds a higher density of hard climbs than any other wall at DL. Classics 5.12's such as Acid Rock and Peyote Blues ascend the perfectly sheer, perfectly vertical south face of the buttress. Notorious thin and nightmarishly technical 5.13's such as Ice and Psilocybin also grace this wall.

But, of course, the centerpiece of the buttress is Gill's Nose, an aptly named route with a colorful history and just enough pro to beckon some brave souls into a lead. Just to it's left, Gill's Crack holds its own history, and might be one of the best 5.10's at the Lake. But, as with every route on the buttress, it has a bit of a reputation.

Getting There Suggest change

To find Gill's Buttress hike the CCC Trail to "T" in the trail at The Monster. Turn left at The Monster and continue up (northwest) until you reach a second "T". To get to the base of Gill's turn left and hike along the wall on the climber's trail. Gill's is about 80 feet west of the "T" in the trail at the Pedestal Buttress.

18 Total Climbs

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Location: 06: Gill's Buttress Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Gill's Buttress

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
 103
Boy Scout
Trad, TR
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
 59
The Spine
Trad, TR
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 10
Fantasy
TR
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 62
Gill's Crack
Trad, TR
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 54
Gill's Nose
TR
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a X
 10
Gills Nose Direct
Trad, TR
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 57
Acid Rock
TR
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
 5
Gill's Cheek
Trad, TR
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 12
Peyote Blues
TR
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 8
In Search of the Lost Libido
TR
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Boy Scout
 103
5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a Trad, TR
The Spine
 59
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Trad, TR
Fantasy
 10
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a TR
Gill's Crack
 62
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad, TR
Gill's Nose
 54
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a TR
Gills Nose Direct
 10
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a X Trad, TR
Acid Rock
 57
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a TR
Gill's Cheek
 5
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R Trad, TR
Peyote Blues
 12
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b TR
In Search of the Lost Libido
 8
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b TR
More Classic Climbs in Gill's Buttress »

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