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Routes in Two Pines Buttress

Big Deal T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Brother Without a Brain TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Crosstown Traffic T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Dyspepsia T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Full Stop T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Grotto, The T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Hypoglycemia T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Jolly Gendarme T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
L. S. D. T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Moderation T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Mouse Tracks T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Mouse's Misery T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Mouse's Tail T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Pussy Galore's Flying Circus T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rack, The T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Reprieve TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Schizophrenia T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Solar Eclipse T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Thoroughfare T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Touch & Go T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Vacillation T,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, TR, 50 ft
FA: First lead Scott Stewart 1971
Page Views: 8,081 total, 52/month
Shared By: Steve Sangdahl on Mar 19, 2005 with updates
Admins: Burt Lindquist, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

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Description

An obvious line with great pumper climbing. Start in the small alcove just right of The Grotto and use side-pulls to ascend the dual cracks.

Also of note are L. S. D. which climbs only the left side of Thoroughfare and Crosstown Traffic which climbs only the right side of Thoroughfare.

Protection

Small cams and wires to a #1 C4.
aray1  
Great 5.11, piton at base, small cams in the seam, got a nice BD #2 placement that's secure but messes a little with the hands. Will have to try brass offsets next time. Apr 17, 2015
Paul Campbell
Waukesha, WI
  5.11a
Paul Campbell   Waukesha, WI
  5.11a
To each his own, but I climbed Mouse's years before I climbed Thoroughfare, and Mouse's is only like 3-4 hard moves, besides that; 5.8. Also I haven't sent Flake Route yet because my big ass fingers have trouble fitting in some of the crimp slots. Just another reason to reinforce personal grading I guess. Aug 22, 2011
Josh Knapp
East Troy, Wisconsin
  5.11a PG13
Josh Knapp   East Troy, Wisconsin
  5.11a PG13
Fantastic route! Great moves! But I felt the difficultly was more on par with mouses misery, and definitely easier than flake route. There really are no moves that you need to "bear down" on. The route is just technical face and with good footwork it isn't super difficult. However, the beginning is a little spooky until the bomber #4 stopper in the right seem. Then at the hand jam you can completely set your mind at ease with a perfect .4 Camalot. Aug 21, 2011
Tradiban  
 
I've got some offsets for sale at Boulders! Apr 1, 2011
Andy Hansen
Longmont, Colorado
  5.11a
Andy Hansen   Longmont, Colorado
  5.11a
I led this today without the use of brassies and in place used 2 C3's in the right seam. This route is surprisingly pumpy! Very good route. The gear is great on this route! Oct 30, 2010
Jon Ruland
Tucson, AZ
Jon Ruland   Tucson, AZ
"a obvious line with great pumper climbing.also of note is L.S.D. 5.11c climb the left side of t-fare only first lead rich bechler 1984.note #2 Cross Town Traffic 5.11d/5.12a climb the right side only with a hard direct start,very pumpy to place gear first lead rich bechler dale moir and steve sangdahl 1982."

lolwut? Jul 10, 2009
Jay Knower
Campton, NH
 
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
 
This climb is the classic 5.11 lead in the park and an entrance exam to the harder, Devil's Lake leads.

The leader should be comfortable placing blind brassies in the right seem, all the while protected from groundfall by a sketchy pin (it actually faces downward). Upon reaching the security of a TCU slot, the climber will definitely breathe a sigh of relief before tackling the crux moves.

If you can get to the TCU placement, the climb is well protected as the gear from that point on is good enough to save all the children in the world. Apr 13, 2005